Inside Seam

[ikewineb]

Okay, so, I need a little input. I'm making this large card carrier. It has a gusset with the seams on the inside. The issue I'm having is that the stitches appear uneven when it is fliped inside out and some of the stitches show. How do you get a nice tight straight looking line?

I believe my issue is coming from the glue line and the stitches pulling a little loose when it is flipped inside out, but I'm not 100% sure. The first one I did, I didn't skive the edges. The one I'm working on now, I've skived about 1/4" in (It's 2oz veg tan). I used my machine on the first one with 207 thread. I'm not sure about the stitches per inch.

Should the glue line create the line, or the stitches?

I was thinking maybe a thinner thread (69) with more stithces per inch as one option. Any ideas or input is welcome.

[Tree Reaper]

You shouldn't see any stitches when the seam is inside.

The only stitches you see here are the stitches for the zipper.

Edited April 19, 2014 by Tree Reaper

[ikewineb]

I know, and certainly agree. I guess what I am asking is what is the best practice to be certain I don't.

[Tree Reaper]

I use contact cement, line the edges up and follow the edge of the leather with the foot on my machine.

If you stay on the edge and use that for a guide your stitches will be straight.

[ikewineb]

Does the glue form the outside edge, or the stitches?

[Tree Reaper]

I sand the finished edge and only glue up to 1/8- 3/16" so when you turn the leather back outside you don't see any glue or stitches.

If there is a trace of glue you can remove it with an eraser.

[silverwingit]

Does the glue form the outside edge, or the stitches?

Ike, it had better be the stitches. If you allow the cement line to extend past the stitch line, it will often split the leather or at least peel the finish of many types of leather when you turn the pouch inside out. I use a ~very~ thin line of cement (1/8" or less), just at the very outside edges of the two sides of the pouch. Yes, you can "erase" some if you catch it before it fully dries, but once you've set the two sides together with a shoe hammer or mallet, it's pretty much a done deal as far as preserving the finish when you turn it inside out.

I think your instincts are correct. If you are bothered by seeing a stitch line or a stitch hole when you turn the pouch inside out (I am not, personally), use finer thread (hence a smaller needle) and closer stitches. But, the likelihood of never seeing a stitch line or stitch hole is low, even with very fine thread and stitching.

Bottom line, you might think about changing your perspective a bit and learn to appreciate your fine stitchwork for its inherent beauty.

Good luck,

Michelle