Pyrography Update?

[grumpyold]

I do pyrography on lots of surfaces, paper, wood, leather, canvas etc.. I use a Razortip. Burning leather is all about temperature. I start at a low temperature to do layout, then as I fill in the piece I go back and keep working the shading. I suggest using a scrap pieces to get your temperature ranges you would like to use. When you start to work a project keep a scrap piece handy. Before putting tip to your project run it across the scrap to pull of some heat from the tip to eliminate the chance of small burn marks. Also keep your tip clean, leather dirties the tip quickly. When you do your practise work on scraps try the product you plan on finishing with. I use mink oil paste on most of my work. Depending on what you use you my find you need to darken your overall burn so as not to loose the detail in the burn if the finish darkens the leather.

[montanadreams]

I just purchased the Razor Tip, and am looking forward to working on some projects. I've practiced on some scrap leather, achieved a good burn, but then decided to dye over the design with a light tan Angelus Dye. The dye removed much of the shading/blackened areas that had been burned into the leather - losing definition and contrast.

I have thought about dying the leather first, then burning, however I'm concerned about organic vapors. I bought a half face organic respirator with dual cartridges today that is rated for oil-free organic vapors, and for use with paints, lacquers, pesticides, insecticides, herbicides and fungicides. Before go the toxic route, is there any way to dye a large piece of leather that has been burned with pyrography without losing some of the detail to the dye?

Thank you.

Olive

[raysouth]

Hello Bdaz and others.

Love doing pyrography on leather and so many options available. I use, and enjoy, the Burnmaster Hawk and Eagle from www.woodcarverssupply.com , if I have that right. I have one of their handles and tips but prefer the Colwood, Razortip, Detailmaster pens by Liesuretime.com, and have a load of them in shop. All of the pens are interchangeable with different controllers, by means of different inexpensive adapters.

If anyone is interested, I am now slowing down a bit and am selling the Detailmaster pens first, as I have more of them in the shop so a good place to start.

Had offered them as a lot, some time ago but cannot remember if it was here or another site, Lost track and didn't keep good records. lol.

As for losing the detail when dye is used, that is a tough one. If the burn is heavy and dark, some of it will be very apparent after dye application and some may disappear.

Darker dyes are going to blend with the burns much more than some of the lighter colors available. I usually experiment on some scraps before making my choice of colors and depends on what I would like to accent on the piece. I have done some belts with heavy pyrography and then dyed very dark, ie; chocolate, coffee and the effect was great.

I suppose it is a matter of experimentation, to obtain the best results fro the piece you are making. Perhaps others have ideas and methods they have had success with and hope they respond as well.

God Bless.

Ray

[BWL]

On 4/20/2014 at 9:42 AM, BDAZ said:

The Razertip has an extra pot to set the lowest heat setting, not affected at the higher ones. The tips run at two volts so I assume they are changing the amperage of the circuit to control the heat at the tip. The tips are nichrome wire. So one would probably have to reduce the amperage to the tip of alternative units to get lower heat settings.

I have been unable to find a schematic of any of the burners...

Cya!

Bob

If you have something that changed the voltage; if your voltage is changed, so is your amps. If your voltage is lowered, your amps go up. If If your voltage goes up, your amps go down.

"Don't squat with your spurs on"

Michael

Edited January 16, 2017 by Barbed Wire Leather