Do Hermes Workers "cast The Stitch"

[DavidL]

I can't seem to get that hermes looking stitch when I hand stitch on vegtan. The problem before on other pieces was that the leather was too thin and the thread wasn't gripping in. Now I changed the leather and the stitch on the backside has no angle. Another thread on this forum I read was about hermes saddle stitching and a member wrote that the there was no casting of the stitches the hermes worker done.

Is he casting the stitch?

Im trying to achieve that type of stitch but the backside is very flat like in the video. Are hermes bags stitched differently than the saddles?

26 seconds you can see the back stitches and the separation of each stitch is roughly 2 mm. when i stitch the backside the leather will close up and the stitch will end up flat yet the front is still angled.

Edited April 24, 2014 by DavidL

[JDM]

I don't know about Hermes leather. Doesn't look like it to me in that video.

Here is a video of more obviously "throwing the loop":

[mrtreat32]

what does casting the stitch do exactly? I tried it on a piece of scrap leather last night and it made the backside a bit more slanted instead of straight on my sample. I did it a bit different from the video posted above though. In the video he was wrapping it around towards his body and it looked like 2 times. I did it away and only went around once.

Is it strictly done to get a angled look on the back?

[Matt T]

Yes, it is for the angle. I also find I can have a more consistent look to the stitch line this way.

[mrtreat32]

Yes, it is for the angle. I also find I can have a more consistent look to the stitch line this way.

Yeah I can't tell what its doing exactly but it seemed to work last night when I tried it.

I pretty much followed "the leather working handbook" instructions as best I could. left needle(back side) through first. Right needle passed through behind first needle while holding the thread back so it stayed in place and wouldn't pierce thread. As right needle is emerging through back side take thread in left hand and wrap it over the right handle needle once. pull tight.

I was wrapping it around once only. Does wrapping it around in the other direction or more than once change the look at all? Its pretty crazy how small differences in the sewing technique can completely change the look.

Edited April 30, 2014 by mrtreat32

[Matt T]

I could imagine that it might help to wrap twice on thick leather in order to get the same look as one wrap on thinner leather; never tried it though.

[JDM]

The guy in the video is wrapping it around once, forming a single overhand knot (first part of tying your shoe). He goes around more than it might appear at first because he is putting his right needle behind the left needle. So he needs a full turn.

My understanding is this doesn't really add anything to strength. Advantages are the diagonal slant to the stitches, possibly more consistent appearance of the stitches, plus a knot can help prevent a stitch from loosening before you sew the next one.

[papaw]

I think if you wrap it to your body the stitch will be the opposite of the front stitch and away from your body and the stitchs will be the same front and back, that is casting a stitch (throwing) not pulling a stitch.. I think that is what i read somewhere, not that the shop so can't try it right now..

Edited May 2, 2014 by papaw

[aloisius]

My technique is nearly identical to the first video (I learned from an ex-Hermes employee). It is not casted. And yes, it leaves somewhat flatter stitches on the back.

As I understand it, some years ago Hermes switched to pricking bags on both sides to ensure angled stitching on the backside as well as the front.

[DavidL]

very cool insight! I also do both sides and its so much easier.