Changing Spi For Thicker Leather?

[DavidL]

The black leather is stitched the same way with the same tools and thread as the first picture.

I want the stitches to look like the second picture - less tension was used to set the thread in the leather because the thickness is 1mm. The sneaker is 3-4mm thick and had to be pull tighter and looks like 9 SPI.

Is this a normal thing? The thicker the leather the smaller the stitch? Is this a technique issue or does sizing down to 5 SPI give me 7 SPI look?

[mrtreat32]

Not sure if you are talking about the same thing but I just started sewing a prototype for a new wallet and the stitching along the border doesn't seem to be slanting barely at all.

I have been practicing my sewing on thinner leather and the stitches look a lot nicer. Not sure if the thickness of the wallet is changing the way the stitches look.

Did the outside 3-4 oz leather and the ends are overlapped with 2 layers of 2-3oz card holders. Using a vergez iron which is 9spi.

[electrathon]

I have no direct answer, but want to comment that the stitching on the sneakers looks awesome.

[mrtreat32]

I have no direct answer, but want to comment that the stitching on the sneakers looks awesome.

I also forgot to mention that I wish my stitching looked as good as the one you don't like as much!

I would be pretty happy with both of those results!

[Tree Reaper]

Thicker leather will give you shorter spi.

[DavidL]

I have no direct answer, but want to comment that the stitching on the sneakers looks awesome.

thank you for the kind words.

I also forgot to mention that I wish my stitching looked as good as the one you don't like as much!

I would be pretty happy with both of those results!

Lots of hours got me these results so it wasn't like I was gifted with skill. Im also happy with the results (wanted a longer stitch), took me forever to realize that the type of leather I was stitching with before couldn't be stitched properly no matter what (tumbled vegtan and chrome tan). Other members have gotten good results on those types of leathers somehow.

Thicker leather will give you shorter spi.

Il try sizing up an spi.

[mrtreat32]

thank you for the kind words.

Lots of hours got me these results so it wasn't like I was gifted with skill. Im also happy with the results (wanted a longer stitch), took me forever to realize that the type of leather I was stitching with before couldn't be stitched properly no matter what (tumbled vegtan and chrome tan). Other members have gotten good results on those types of leathers somehow.

Il try sizing up an spi.

what types of leather are you using now?

you have worked with chromexcel? how did it compare to the veg tan when stitching?

[DavidL]

Not sure if you are talking about the same thing but I just started sewing a prototype for a new wallet and the stitching along the border doesn't seem to be slanting barely at all.

I have been practicing my sewing on thinner leather and the stitches look a lot nicer. Not sure if the thickness of the wallet is changing the way the stitches look.

Did the outside 3-4 oz leather and the ends are overlapped with 2 layers of 2-3oz card holders. Using a vergez iron which is 9spi.

What I find by stitching with different thickness, soft leather, stiff leather is the type of leather changes the appearance of stitching. For me I prefer to have stiffer leather for stitching and any leather with stretch I won't stitch. If you are dedicated, try to stitch 100+ stitches each on veg tan, chrome tan and chrome/veg tan (horween or other brand). I used all the leather scraps I had around and the different leathers helped me improve.

The front side looks roughly the same on every type of leather, with the softer leathers having a more inconsistent stitch both front and back because the leather stretches too much under pressure. Backside only looks good on stiffer veg tanned leather.

To sew wallets I believe you have to use white glue or fiebings cement glue (its says cement but its white glue) and glue past where you want to stitch by a half centimetre. In theory the reason the stitches will look uneven is because you have to stitch on one solid piece of leather and when you glue 3mm around the stitch in every direction it should be solid. You can then use a bone folder to take off the excess glue. Haven't tried it yet, it does make sense why my recent wallet the backstitches look uneven.

[DavidL]

what types of leather are you using now?

you have worked with chromexcel? how did it compare to the veg tan when stitching?

I've used essex from horween and it is just stiff enough to stitch. My rule of thumb I go with now is the area has to be glued all around the area of stitching, the leather has to be 3mm or thicker(total of all the pieces) and preferably stiff. Upholstery leather with a softer touch can work and so can horween, just not stretchy chrome tanned.

After a lot of trial and error I now will usually buy a small piece and stitch with it and then I can tell if it will work.

Edited May 9, 2014 by DavidL

[mrtreat32]

Thicker leather will give you shorter spi.

sorry not exactly understanding this. Can you go into a bit more depth?

the spacing the pricking iron makes will be exactly the same distance apart no matter the thickness. Do you mean it will change the way the thread goes through the holes when it is thicker?

thanks

[mrtreat32]

I've used essex from horween and it is just stiff enough to stitch. My rule of thumb I go with now is the area has to be glued all around the area of stitching, the leather has to be 3mm or thicker(total of all the pieces) and preferably stiff. Upholstery leather with a softer touch can work and so can horween, just not stretchy chrome tanned.

After a lot of trial and error I will usually buy a small piece and stitch with it and then I can tell if it will work.

just searched the essex leather and it looks real nice! You buy direct from horween? If so what are their prices and order amounts like.

[DavidL]

I buy a sample before I buy the whole hide usually. It was from Springfield leather. From talking to them I found if you order a horween sample and think it is good then the actually whole hide they send you will be better. They usually send out the lower grade leathers for the samples so that the better selections are for the whole sides.

Email the horween representative and they respond within 5 hours with the price list. Fee is 30 dollars for handling regardless of order and price is only justifiable for shipment of 5+ hides. Under 5 hides Springfield leather has a better deal.

sorry not exactly understanding this. Can you go into a bit more depth?

the spacing the pricking iron makes will be exactly the same distance apart no matter the thickness. Do you mean it will change the way the thread goes through the holes when it is thicker?

thanks

The thicker the leather the more you will have to pull to secure the stitch which in turn will give you a shorter stitch than one made with thinner leather.

For reference the two pictures of the shoe and black leather were made with the same 7spi stitching iron.

If the leather is stretchy it can cause the spaces between the pricking iron impressions to expand (like how a overstitch wheel impression looks like). More noticeable on leathers like upholstery. It can probably be flattened.

With the small amount of time i've used upholstery (aniline tanned) the stitches look very nice front and back. It does look different than veg tan. Less spaced out. Leather has more give to it, just enough strength to not distort like cheaper chrome tan.

Edited May 9, 2014 by DavidL