Working With Horween Chromexcel

[Cletus2014]

So I've been getting some leather stock together, along with tools, knowledge, materials, etc., preparing myself to embark on a big leatherworking odyssey. (Sound exciting?) Because I don't really know what I'm doing yet, I mananged to search out and acquire several pieces of Horween Chromexcel, for no other good reason beyond the fact it's...Horween Chromexcel. I figured that would be the ultimate leather for anything. But now I'm not so sure. Compared to some pieces of regular old Tandy veg tanned leather that I also possess, I'm wondering whether the Hoween chrome is really the best thing to be using for the beginner projects I have in mind. I'm thinking watch straps, little cases for things, notebook covers, wallets, etc...

The Horween chrome leather is quite stretchy and has a soft "hand", which defnitely feels nice to the touch, but is difficult to stitch evenly, and very difficult to tool in any way, or especially to edge burnish. Also, I just read somewhere - maybe here? - that you shouldn't use chrome tanned leather for sheaths, holsters, or anything else meant to house metal objects. Strike two for me. I planned on making leather cases for all my little metal instruments and tools. One of my practice projects was a case for a little 6" machinists rule, which is stainless steel, and now I'm concerened about wrecking the finish on the ruler from the chrome salts leaching out of the leather or something.

I'm thinking of taking all my Horween chrome leather and using it for strops, stitching pony liners and other unitily tasks now, which seems like a downright shame for such fine leather. Alas.

Does anyone have any comments or opinions on the best uses for this leather type? I'm starting to think I should have just stocked up on plain ol' veg tan and just use that for everything.

What about you, do you use Horween Chromexcel?

What do you think the best uses for this stretchy leather are?

Would this even be good to use for a stropping block surface if it came down to that? I've heard you should use really "hard" surface leather for strops, but I don't know how important that is.

Please help!

[Hi Im Joe]

If you don't want your chromexcel please send it to me. I will give it the lovin'.

Honestly, its great for wallets, bags, watchstraps and a bunch of other stuff. I've made wallets out of it and am now using it to make a messenger bag for my wife.

The wallet on the left is tan chromexcel. The other picture is the inside of the wallet.

[LTC]

i'd take it off your hands too...heck, i could trade you some chestnut veg tan for it if that'd help...

[WScott]

You are bang on with your assessment of CXL.

It is definitely not for everything, though Horween manufactures many different leathers for different purposes.

CXL is not tool-able, stretches, blooms out, difficult to burnish edges, hard to stitch....etc

Get some good veg tan and use it for the tool cases and holsters. Save the CXL for a special project that will pop up.

Here is a link to a Horween post I started last year

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=50700&hl=%2Bhorween+%2Bleathers

[Cletus2014]

Thanks leatherworker, it's nice to hear I wasn't too far out in the stratosphere, wondering how to use this leather. After talking with a few others about it too, I guess I'll hold off on scrapping this nice leather, just need to be a little patient and choose my projects more carefully. I don't have much of this stuff, only a few square ft, but I will take another shot at making a watch strap or two and see how it goes.

Thanks for your comments!

You are bang on with your assessment of CXL.

It is definitely not for everything, though Horween manufactures many different leathers for different purposes.

CXL is not tool-able, stretches, blooms out, difficult to burnish edges, hard to stitch....etc

Get some good veg tan and use it for the tool cases and holsters. Save the CXL for a special project that will pop up.

Here is a link to a Horween post I started last year

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=50700&hl=%2Bhorween+%2Bleathers

[LTC]

yeah good luck with that.

[Cletus2014]

Thanks?

yeah good luck with that.

[DavidL]

watch straps are very difficult to make especially as a beginner. Try to make the simplest thing you can so at least you can get practice on the fundamentals (wallets, keychains)

[Hi Im Joe]

If you can make a belt you can make a watch strap. They aren't that difficult. just don't stitch across them. Just stitch along the edge. Its not so hard.

[LeatherWerks]

You could make some dog collars with the stuff. I use it as the outside of the collar and line it with veg tan on the inside. Makes one of the softest collars around.

Steve

[LTC]

You could make some dog collars with the stuff. I use it as the outside of the collar and line it with veg tan on the inside. Makes one of the softest collars around.

Steve

how'd you burnish the chromexcel? looks good. people have repeatedly told me it can't be burnished without that overpriced soldering iron, but it doesn't look like you used that so i'm curious if you could tell us how you did it, please...

[DavidL]

You could make some dog collars with the stuff. I use it as the outside of the collar and line it with veg tan on the inside. Makes one of the softest collars around.

Steve

If that is saddle stitched you have a very steady hand. Looks nice.

How did you get the inside vegtan to sit so flush on the edges?

I also want to learn how to burnish the edges.

A quick rub on the wood burnishing stick did nothing for me.

how'd you burnish the chromexcel? looks good. people have repeatedly told me it can't be burnished without that overpriced soldering iron, but it doesn't look like you used that so i'm curious if you could tell us how you did it, please...

A cheap soldering iron from home depot and a tip attachment for a few dollars on ebay can act the same as the expensive iron.

Edited May 9, 2014 by DavidL

[LTC]

A cheap soldering iron from home depot and a tip attachment for a few dollars on ebay can act the same as the expensive iron.

i've read otherwise on here...

[LeatherWerks]

Sorry folks, I wish I could saddle stitch like that but I did this on a Cobra 4 machine. As to the edge, I used the 'Bob Parks' method. After sanding and edging, I rubbed glycerin soap into the edge followed by some regular saddle soap. Bob suggests the yellow saddle soap but it tends to discolor the white thread. I rub the edge with canvas until I get a smooth edge. I then dye the edge.

The result is a decent edge but I don't think you'll ever get the edge you can achieve with veg tanned leather.

David L ask how I got the two layers of leather to sit flush. I cut the veg tanned strip wider than the chromexcel strip, glue the two pieces together and when set, use my round knife to cut the two edges flush. I then sew the layers together using an edge guide.

I've never tried the soldering iron method but I understand this method works very well.

Steve

[Nuttish]

CXL would make a crummy strop. A piece of paper on a piece of glass would be better. It's also so greasy and waxy that it will eventually mark pieces in your stitching horse jaws.

In my experience, CXL sides are wildly inconsistent from section to section. The bend closer to the shoulders is far less stretchy than other pieces. It also seems to me that the little flaps and belly side are only useful for silly little novelty accessories and stuff.

Remarkably, stretchiness also seems to depend on the color, and maybe even the lot. My burgundy and dark brown are thinner and far less stretchy across the entire side than what they call tan.

If you got pieces someone else chose for you, I reckon they chose crummy pieces. CXL is just fine for making small leather goods, albeit it with somewhat time consuming paring and edge finishing, but the attractive pullup and what bearded hipsters who fetishize "carry goods" and wear $350 jeans want makes it worth it.