Members UnionCraft Posted May 19, 2014 Members Report Posted May 19, 2014 The rounded corners on this, was made using a penny as a pattern. Pic 1 Here I am placing the first tooth into the previous hole to space the stitching. The second tooth is being pressed into the leather carefully, so that the 3rd tooth doesn’t come down far enough to mar my work. The second tooth may be adjusted if mistakes are made, because the leather hasn't been punctured yet. Pic 2 Here are the marks after I’m finished. Pic 3 Being careful, I place my awl on the mark and make sure it lines up perfectly slanted with the slanted marks from the pricking iron. Then I push the awl straight down, perpendicular to the leather. I’m using multiple scrap layers to do this, so that I protect my awl after it exits out the back. Pic 4 Here are the finished results after making the holes with my awl. Pics 5 & 6 After stitching this piece, I decided to finish the edges as well, for presentation. Pic 7 What I am referring to, in my previous reply… I’m not a fan of lightly hammering the iron with a mallet, because doing so, will create a slanted entrance holes because of the tilted iron. You can still achieve good results this way, but only if you’re able to correct the hole you make with an awl. However, I just prefer to not have it initially slanted.
Members Hi Im Joe Posted May 19, 2014 Members Report Posted May 19, 2014 Awesome tutorial! Thanks for taking the time to do it! http://www.sevenhillsleather.com/
Members UnionCraft Posted May 19, 2014 Members Report Posted May 19, 2014 Also, since Nigel Armitage is referenced many times, I decided to poke around. In this video, at around 1:15, he demonstrates the tilted method for rounded bends. He also demonstrates the wheel method by using an "overstitch wheel." An over-stitch wheel is common in western leatherwork and it produces small dots to mark the leather. European leatherwork involves a "pricking wheel," which creates the slanted marks of a pricking iron. Again, as shown by Nigel, there are multiple ways to go about rounded corners. I hope all this info was helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gtonQ3YF5s Awesome tutorial! Thanks for taking the time to do it! You're welcome!
Members mrtreat32 Posted May 19, 2014 Author Members Report Posted May 19, 2014 super helpful tutorial! Really appreciate it! After looking at your pics I was curious about a few other things. Did you backstitch at the beginning of the piece when you started and than again at the end to make it look uniform? I might give that a shot if so.. I like the way both sides ended up with symmetrical stitching. Do you punch the pricking iron all the way through the piece? I have read different opinions on this.. I dont see the harm as long as there is something under the piece to protect the tool when the teeth go through. Maybe finishing the whole with the awl gives a better result? What size thread is that? Fil au chinois? My stitches dont have space like that between each one. Im assuming because I have size432 and maybe youre using something finer? Stitching looks awesome. Do you have a website?
Members UnionCraft Posted May 19, 2014 Members Report Posted May 19, 2014 super helpful tutorial! Really appreciate it! You're welcome! After looking at your pics I was curious about a few other things. Did you backstitch at the beginning of the piece when you started and than again at the end to make it look uniform? I might give that a shot if so.. I like the way both sides ended up with symmetrical stitching. Yes I did. It's a neater look. Do you punch the pricking iron all the way through the piece? I have read different opinions on this.. I dont see the harm as long as there is something under the piece to protect the tool when the teeth go through. Maybe finishing the whole with the awl gives a better result? For the straight stitches, I punched through the leather. The rounded corners were pierced with my awl. What size thread is that? Fil au chinois? I did not want to waste my good thread for this tutorial, so I opted for my cheaper Barbour 32/3 thread. The 32/3 is equivalent to the N°732 Lin Cable thread. Typically I would use my N°632 Lin Cable for my N°10 pricking iron. My stitches dont have space like that between each one. Im assuming because I have size432 and maybe youre using something finer? Which pricking iron do you use? I would recommend N°432 with a N°6-8 pricking iron depending on your preference. Stitching looks awesome. Do you have a website? Thanks! Sorry, but I'd rather not disclose that information. I'm only here to help.
Members mrtreat32 Posted May 19, 2014 Author Members Report Posted May 19, 2014 I am using the 432 thread with a 9spi vergez iron. Think I will try the 532 for my next order. I also have tiger thread .6mm but its even larger than the 432.
Members UnionCraft Posted May 20, 2014 Members Report Posted May 20, 2014 Before pulling the trigger on your next order, I thought you'd like to see this. The edge stitching is a N°9 pricking iron with N°632 Lin Cable. The s-decorative stitching is a N°10 pricking iron with the same N°632 Lin Cable. Since this topic is about rounding corners, I decided to include rounded corners to remain relevant lol! The curved parts were all stitched using the tilted pricking iron technique. I hope this reference was helpful to you. I'm sorry, but I do not have any N°532 Lin Cable to compare.
Members mrtreat32 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Members Report Posted May 20, 2014 Before pulling the trigger on your next order, I thought you'd like to see this. The edge stitching is a N°9 pricking iron with N°632 Lin Cable. The s-decorative stitching is a N°10 pricking iron with the same N°632 Lin Cable. Since this topic is about rounding corners, I decided to include rounded corners to remain relevant lol! The curved parts were all stitched using the tilted pricking iron technique. I hope this reference was helpful to you. I'm sorry, but I do not have any N°532 Lin Cable to compare. IMG_2248.jpg stitching looks awesome again! Think I will order the 632 now that I see it in use. Actually doesnt look all that small. Is there a website that sells the Barbour thread in the US? I should probably get some cheaper thread as well for practicing until I get better. Kinda liking the N10 pricking stitches even more than the 9. I only have a 4 tooth 9spi iron at the moment and wanting to pull the trigger on something bigger (probably 10 teeth). I was actually leaning towards getting a 7spi iron for the variety but after seeing your stitching and trying out 7spi with a overstitch wheel Im not liking the big stitches so much. Think Im gonna get a 10!
Members UnionCraft Posted May 21, 2014 Members Report Posted May 21, 2014 stitching looks awesome again! Think I will order the 632 now that I see it in use. Actually doesnt look all that small. Is there a website that sells the Barbour thread in the US? I should probably get some cheaper thread as well for practicing until I get better. Kinda liking the N10 pricking stitches even more than the 9. I only have a 4 tooth 9spi iron at the moment and wanting to pull the trigger on something bigger (probably 10 teeth). I was actually leaning towards getting a 7spi iron for the variety but after seeing your stitching and trying out 7spi with a overstitch wheel Im not liking the big stitches so much. Think Im gonna get a 10! Thanks! I've bought some of my Barbour on ebay. I've also bought from Hewit in the UK. Keep stitching!
Members Basically Bob Posted May 21, 2014 Members Report Posted May 21, 2014 Wow, what an awesome thread! I, also, have been struggling with curves and until now, have been getting around the issue by using an overstitch wheel to mark the stitch location on curves then continuing on the straight runs with either my 1 1/2" or 1/2" pricking irons. Just spent about 30 minutes at the bench using UnionCraft's technique and .... by golly, I think I got it! My overstitch wheel will now be used for what it was intended. Thanks to all for sharing! Bob
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