Adjustable Edge Creaser (Vergez Blanchard)

[mrtreat32]

Placing a order for some new tools today and was about to pull the trigger on a edge creaser as well.

I am looking at a vergez blanchard mostly. Question is I don't own one and have never used a creaser. In the past few days I have I tried using my scratch compass on the edges of dampened leather and Im getting a crease line that Im pretty happy with.

I don't know what to expect from a normal creasing tool so I can't really compare the result. The compass is leaving a impression in the leather and not just a scratch.

Im basically trying to find out if this is a tool that I should invest in now or its just a more convenient method of getting a similar result.

I guess once I work with chromexcel where the impression is harder to make this is where the proper tool would really shine. Would love to hear any feedback

thanks.

here is a picture of some crease lines I made with the compass tool. I will try to upload a image of one done on natural color veg tan where you can see it a bit better

[Bob Blea]

I've been using a Tandy adjustable creaser since I started and it's worked OK. I just bought a fixed edge creaser from Barry King to do edges like what you are showing, and it takes a learning curve too (I'm still not confident about not skipping off the edge on thin leathers without going slowly) but I like it better. I think it's easier to use than my Tandy one. I think the crease your getting with your compass looks pretty good.

[mrtreat32]

I've been using a Tandy adjustable creaser since I started and it's worked OK. I just bought a fixed edge creaser from Barry King to do edges like what you are showing, and it takes a learning curve too (I'm still not confident about not skipping off the edge on thin leathers without going slowly) but I like it better. I think it's easier to use than my Tandy one. I think the crease your getting with your compass looks pretty good.

Thanks for the feedback.

Yeah I don't know what a real nice crease looks like so I have nothing to compare mine too in terms of what to expect. Im kind of thinking about holding off on the creaser if its not going to be a major improvement over what Im getting now. I guess the main advantage would be that you can heat a creaser tool up and I can't do that with my compass.

My scratch compass which I mainly use to mark the lines before I use my pricking Iron has been a major learning curve for me also. I find it really hard to get a straight line since Im mostly working on wallets and other items with multiple layers. When I set the width and run it along the edge the line varies because the outside leg of the tool is being guided along different widths of leather.

If I use it on a test piece that is only one layer thick I can get a much better result.

[Matt T]

Yeah, your compass line looks fine, but that's because you are using veg tan. You need the heated creaser when you use chrome tan

[mrtreat32]

Yeah, your compass line looks fine, but that's because you are using veg tan. You need the heated creaser when you use chrome tan

thats what I figured. Plan on ordering chromexcel for my next order so I will go ahead with the creaser most likely.

thanks for the feedback

[Cletus2014]

I'm kinda going through the same trials and tribulations with properly creasing leather myself. Like you, I've been using my dividers, which work okay, but I recently picked up two (a #1 and #2) CS Osborne Creasers from Ebay. I'm starting to wonder though, whether these CSOs are seconds or rejects or something, as I can not, no matter how slow I go, or how carefully it try, keep the tool indexed off the edge of the piece. It doesn't even seem to "slip" off, but rather seems to actually pull off the leather, which obviously screws up the edge. The #1 is worse than the #2 and I've so far found it impossible to use the #1 at all and this is on a piece of 4oz veg tan with a very clean, square edge. I can't even imagine trying one of these things on a work piece with an edge that's been beveled or isn't completely perfectly sharp and square to guide the tool.

Anyone have an comments on this? I know the vintage CSO tools tend to be a little (or even a lot) better than new ones, but these creasers seem unusable to me. Could it really be I just haven't figured out how to use it properly? I'm thinking about dropping half a buck on a Barry King (Their awls are a work of art) and be done with it.

[mrtreat32]

I'm kinda going through the same trials and tribulations with properly creasing leather myself. Like you, I've been using my dividers, which work okay, but I recently picked up two (a #1 and #2) CS Osborne Creasers from Ebay. I'm starting to wonder though, whether these CSOs are seconds or rejects or something, as I can not, no matter how slow I go, or how carefully it try, keep the tool indexed off the edge of the piece. It doesn't even seem to "slip" off, but rather seems to actually pull off the leather, which obviously screws up the edge. The #1 is worse than the #2 and I've so far found it impossible to use the #1 at all and this is on a piece of 4oz veg tan with a very clean, square edge. I can't even imagine trying one of these things on a work piece with an edge that's been beveled or isn't completely perfectly sharp and square to guide the tool.

Anyone have an comments on this? I know the vintage CSO tools tend to be a little (or even a lot) better than new ones, but these creasers seem unusable to me. Could it really be I just haven't figured out how to use it properly? I'm thinking about dropping half a buck on a Barry King (Their awls are a work of art) and be done with it.

sounds strange. I looked at the c.s. osborne briefly as well.

Is one edge hanging off the side to guide it.. similar to how a divider or a grooving tool has one side run along the edge to guide it? The side that is not making the crease is in contact with the mat or work table you are working on? I recently got a versa groover from Sheridan and it is super easy to keep the line straight..would be nice if a creaser was designed in similar fashion to that tool.

I will post my impressions of the vergez creaser and its ease of use once it arrives this week if youre interested. Excited I ordered it but at the same time kinda thinking I could have spent that money on another tool that has more uses (head knife, vergez skiver) since the crease is pretty much only for decorative purposes.

When you speak of the barry king awl are you referring to the handles he makes or his blades. I have the handle which is very nice but Im switching between a Vergez and Sheridan awl blade. Maybe I will try the BK next!

[Hi Im Joe]

I use a cheap tandy screw creaser and have found that you have to get it pretty hot first. Then press pretty hard.

[Macca]

I will post my impressions of the vergez creaser and its ease of use once it arrives this week if youre interested. Excited I ordered it but at the same time kinda thinking I could have spent that money on another tool that has more uses (head knife, vergez skiver) since the crease is pretty much only for decorative purposes.

Just a word of warning

Don't buy a new Blanchard knife, the steel is garbage compared to the old ones.

[Cletus2014]

Thanks mrtreat32, I'd be interested to hear how the VB screw crease works out for you. I came very close to getting one of these, there's an Ebay seller who usually carries quite a bit of Blanchard stuff and had this tool for right at $70. I should have just got that in the first place, rather than screwing around with these other ones.

The Barry King awl - I actually bought the small haft and the #1 blade and I'm really happy with it. I'd been using a CSO #143 (I think) and it served me well once I had it all polished up and sharp enough to slip through the leather. The BK awl (blade) was already polished when I got it and works beautifully. I've heard the Douglas blades are very good, but I'm happy with the BK for now. I also have a small Blanchard awl, but I've not had a chance to polish it up yet, so haven't used it.

Last thing - If you're looking for a round knife, or any kind of leather knife, don't forget to check out Knipschield Custom Knives. I just got my new French style head knife and Wharncliff trim knife yesterday and I am so blown away with how bleeding edge, FRIKKEN SHARP these knives are, I've never seen anything like it in my life. I always thought I was getting my shoe knife pretty sharp and stropping it up to straight razor edge - NOTHING compared to these Knip knives, which slice right through a tough old 14oz latigo like it's butter. I've never seen anything like it. Terry Knipschield's prices are great too and the knives are beautifully and perfectly done. Do yourself a big favor and check it out, if you don't already know about Knipschield.

Edited June 14, 2014 by Cletus2014

[Cletus2014]

I use a cheap tandy screw creaser and have found that you have to get it pretty hot first. Then press pretty hard.

Hi Joe - The problem I've been having isn't because of whether I get the tools hot or not, it's these CSO creasers I got that will not stay on the leather and do their thing - well, the #2 will, to a point, if I'm VERY careful and slow - but the #1 is unusable and slips off the leather edge every time instead of following the edge and making the line.

I was looking for some opinions on possibly some way to use, or hold these tools that I'm not figuring out here. I can't imagine too many ways to use it that I haven't tried yet, but who knows?

[Hi Im Joe]

I hold mine like an ice pick. Think murder movie.

[Red Cent]

I have not worked with the thin stuff and I don't use a creaser much. I have used the screw adjustable creaser and, for my use, is terrible. I used the adjustable groover to lay a stitch line that creates a raw groove that shows sometimes. So I removed the "blade" from the groover, found an Allen wrench that fit the hole and filed the "creaser" side to a deep V but not sharp enough to cut. Makes a great stitching line and used on cased leather will remain distinct.

[mrtreat32]

Just a word of warning

Don't buy a new Blanchard knife, the steel is garbage compared to the old ones.

thanks for the heads up. Maybe Ill check out the knipschield knifes mentioned above or do some research on some other brands. Gonna hold off for a bit though since I have already spent more than I should have on tools recently! The head knife looks like a tool with a steep learning curve as well but Im still interested in learning.

[mrtreat32]

Thanks mrtreat32, I'd be interested to hear how the VB screw crease works out for you. I came very close to getting one of these, there's an Ebay seller who usually carries quite a bit of Blanchard stuff and had this tool for right at $70. I should have just got that in the first place, rather than screwing around with these other ones.

The Barry King awl - I actually bought the small haft and the #1 blade and I'm really happy with it. I'd been using a CSO #143 (I think) and it served me well once I had it all polished up and sharp enough to slip through the leather. The BK awl (blade) was already polished when I got it and works beautifully. I've heard the Douglas blades are very good, but I'm happy with the BK for now. I also have a small Blanchard awl, but I've not had a chance to polish it up yet, so haven't used it.

Last thing - If you're looking for a round knife, or any kind of leather knife, don't forget to check out Knipschield Custom Knives. I just got my new French style head knife and Wharncliff trim knife yesterday and I am so blown away with how bleeding edge, FRIKKEN SHARP these knives are, I've never seen anything like it in my life. I always thought I was getting my shoe knife pretty sharp and stropping it up to straight razor edge - NOTHING compared to these Knip knives, which slice right through a tough old 14oz latigo like it's butter. I've never seen anything like it. Terry Knipschield's prices are great too and the knives are beautifully and perfectly done. Do yourself a big favor and check it out, if you don't already know about Knipschield.

Will let you know how it goes. I ordered from that eBay seller you mentioned...

Im in the same boat.. I feel like sometimes when trying to save money I buy the cheaper alternative and end up re-buying what I really wanted in the first place. Not saying the VB is good cause I have yet to try it but the other tools of theirs I own are of good quality. Also people I follow on social networks whos work I like use that tool with good results.

I have the small BK awl haft as well. Very nice looking.

I bought the Douglas Awl blade for it after reading they were some of the best. It was my first awl blade (only been working with leather 2 months) and was using it exclusively. Honestly I dont know what a truly sharp awl blade is since no one else I know does leather work to compare with. It seems pretty sharp but it is 2.5 inches long and the farthest I can get it into the awl haft still leaves about 2 inches exposed which makes it feel a bit awkward and cant get as much leverage when stabbing the holes.

I ordered one of the VB blades 43mm for the hell of it since they were only a few bucks and after trying it out I havent gone back to the Douglas. The VB is a lot shorter so it is only sticking out of the haft about 1 inch and I feel like I have better control of it that way. When I touched the tip of it alongside the douglas blade out of the box the Douglas blade felt a bit more sharp but pushing it through leather I have a easier time with the VB. Maybe its because the shorter length along with the fact that the blade is a bit slimmer. If you look super close the shape is a bit different as well. It seems to match the slants of the pricking iron more closely which makes sense since they are the same brand.

I hear people mention that certain brands come polished sharp from the factory such as the Douglas. If you look at the blades next to each other the Douglas is almost mirror like and the VB is a dull steel color. Is that actually a sign of sharpness or a different type of steel? As far as I can tell I now have the VB as sharp as the Douglas but it still isnt shiny. Maybe someone with better understanding of these tools and sharpening can chime in.

The Douglas could very well be the superior quality tool but for me I have had better luck with the VB. maybe its my lack of experience.

[DavidL]

My vergez awl is sharp and polished like the bob douglas blade. Sharpen on a rough stone only on the tip to get the profile, grind on a finer stone to refine the grind marks, green compound on strop on the tip of the awl and finally jewellers rouge on the whole blade. Takes roughly 1 - 2 hours. Steel quality is similar on bob douglas and vergez only difference in price is that bob himself takes the time to grind and polish the blade professionally, which anyone can learn and should learn to keep their tools at top condition.

I have a knip knife and was considering whether or not I should have went with a cheaper knife, quality is very good as far as I can tell. Probably will keep this knife for several years.

Does anyone free hand straight lines on a awl scratch w/ a head knife?

[mrtreat32]

I'm kinda going through the same trials and tribulations with properly creasing leather myself. Like you, I've been using my dividers, which work okay, but I recently picked up two (a #1 and #2) CS Osborne Creasers from Ebay. I'm starting to wonder though, whether these CSOs are seconds or rejects or something, as I can not, no matter how slow I go, or how carefully it try, keep the tool indexed off the edge of the piece. It doesn't even seem to "slip" off, but rather seems to actually pull off the leather, which obviously screws up the edge. The #1 is worse than the #2 and I've so far found it impossible to use the #1 at all and this is on a piece of 4oz veg tan with a very clean, square edge. I can't even imagine trying one of these things on a work piece with an edge that's been beveled or isn't completely perfectly sharp and square to guide the tool.

Anyone have an comments on this? I know the vintage CSO tools tend to be a little (or even a lot) better than new ones, but these creasers seem unusable to me. Could it really be I just haven't figured out how to use it properly? I'm thinking about dropping half a buck on a Barry King (Their awls are a work of art) and be done with it.

so I got the edger in the mail today.

I have only tried on scrap pieces and max 2 layers glued together of scrap but it was very easy to make a straight line with this tool. Keep in mind I wasnt going over different thickness of layers with pockets etc but it worked very easily. Im assuming when you said you were having a difficult time with the osborne you also tried on a simple piece of scrap to see if even that would work. I would highly recommend this tool but I have never tried another creaser to compare but no complaints. Not sure if any other high end modern tool makers have creasers..if Barry King or Sheridan make one Ill try that for my next purchase

Havent tried it heated yet which I will do tomorrow. I have read people use spirit lamps mostly to heat the creaser...is there any reason I cant use a regular gas

stove or candle? If it can damage the tool I would really like to avoid it but I dont see what the difference would be.

[billybopp]

I happen to have both a screw adjustable creaser from Tandy, and a used Osborne #1, and find that they both have their uses.

The Osborne makes a very fine crease, and with too much pressure will actually cut into the leather. It has a guide "blade" ( for lack of a better word) which is longer than the other creasing "blade". That helps to prevent the tool from wandering as I push it with a very slight toe in angle to keep it tight against the leather edge. The fine crease that the Osborne leaves makes a very attractive decorative crease, but is much too fine for a stitching crease.

The adjustable is a much more blunt tool and requires a lot of pressure. It also leaves a much wider crease which is great for stitching. It wanders a bit more on me, probably because both "blades" are the same length which requires that it be both toed in AND tipped toward the edge of the leather. I have also noticed on mine that one "blade" is slightly thicker than the other, so I use that to advantage for a slightly different crease. I haven't looked at any others, so I do not know if that is by design, or a fluke.

On veg tan, heat only makes a slight difference which is more noticable with the adjustable. I prefer the look that heat gives.

Alcohol burners are the tool of choice because alcohol burn very cleanly. A butane lighter will leave a deposit of soot on your tool which then has to be wiped off, which is a pain. The same is true of at least most candles. And if you don't get all of the soot off, you have a blackened crease on your work for the first few inches. I put up with wiping my tools for awhile but recently bought one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QDP42K/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1#

It has a wide heavy base to help prevent tipping, a thumbwheel to adjust the wick without snuffing it, a nifty little snuffer cap to snuff the flame and also slow the alocohol evaporation, and a cute little handle that is useful. I'm burning 90% rubbing alcohol which works fine, but denatured alcohol might be even better. I'm not so sure about 70% rubbing alcohol.

On awls, you are completely correct about blade length. It's good old geometry at work. The farther the tip of the blade is from your hand, the more it will move with every tiny movement of your hand. It's another thing that I put up with until I figured a few things out. My first awl was a Tandy multi-purpose with a wing awl blade, which was duller than the butter knives in my kitches. I used it because I did not know any better. It didn't take TOO long to realize that it had to be sharpened to be of much use. It took a little longer to figure out that the wing blade is a pain to use since it will always make a bigger hole on one side of the leather than on the other and consistent holes require very precise depth control. And finally longer still to figure out that it was too long. I now use awls with short straight sided blades that are sharpened and stropped to an almost mirror like finish and am MUCH happier, and my stitching is vastly improved. I'm sure that wing blades have their uses, but not for me.

I hope that helps more than it confuses!

Bill

[Cletus2014]

Billybopp -

Thanks for the input on the creasers, it's quite possible I just need more practice, but so far I've been completely unable to get these new CSO creasers to work AT ALL without wandering off the edge of the leather. I'm about ready to take a file to them and try to do something, as they are completely useless as is, unfortunately. I might should have gone ahead and got the VB screw crease in the first place and been done with it. I'm beginning to learn to go ahead and buy the better, more expensive tools first, rather than wasting money and time (and leather) trying to save money re-buying cheap tools again and again.

My experience with awls has been varied, but I think I'm finally getting the hang of it at last! I started out with the Tandy "wing blades" too. I didn't realize that's what they were called, but I do see, in hindsight now, how completely useless these things really are. What a struggle! And this was when I was barely first learning to stitch and also didn't know any better. Tandy should be ashamed, selling such junk and for the prices they ask too! (of course, you could spend several hundred dollars to get their "club discount" for a year, what a deal!)

My next awl was an Osborne 143? or 144, I forget, but once sharp worked quite well. I recently bought a Barry King small haft and #1 awl blade and also a VB 38mm awl with blade. The BK came fully polished and sharp and works beautifully, though I've since reground and polished the tip to suit my style. The VB had a very sharp point, but was roughly finished, not polished at all and was basically unusable too. Now I have also reground it and polished the entire blade and now it effortlessly pushes through the leather, every bit as good as my other two awls.

The point of the long story here (pardon the pun) is, as long as the blade is basically the correct type, size and length for your style, it's important to spend some time getting it dialed in before it becomes the tool it's meant to be. I'm not sure the brand makes much difference (please note, I did say not "much" difference). I've spent probably several hours on each of my three stitching awls and they all work beautifully for me and they are all nearly identical in tip grind and polish, with the length and width of the blade being the only difference, for different stitch sizes. If you look at it this way, you can then more or less choose and awl for the design of the haft/handle and use whatever suits you best, without worrying too much whether you're getting the "best" awl blade. You can make most blades the best, by the work you put into them.

[Macca]

Just a general word of warning.

I see lots of posts (not just this thread) about buying VB & other expensive tools as cheap/mid price aren't any good.

VB, Dixons etc are not what they used to be.

They might still be good/ok but in all honesty they are no where near as their old ones, much cheaper steel & manufacturing techniques are used making new tools.

I'd always recommend trying to find a vintage tool first (only exception would be pricking irons & awls, you have to be very lucky to find an old pricking iron that isn't worn/damaged)

Ive compared (& bought) head knifes, skivers, creasers etc from VB, Dixons etc to their vintage equivalent, difference is night & day.

So I'd say do yourself a favour, get in touch with Bruce or search ebay etc for old tools first.

[DavidL]

Just a general word of warning.

I see lots of posts (not just this thread) about buying VB & other expensive tools as cheap/mid price aren't any good.

VB, Dixons etc are not what they used to be.

They might still be good/ok but in all honesty they are no where near as their old ones, much cheaper steel & manufacturing techniques are used making new tools.

I'd always recommend trying to find a vintage tool first (only exception would be pricking irons & awls, you have to be very lucky to find an old pricking iron that isn't worn/damaged)

Ive compared (& bought) head knifes, skivers, creasers etc from VB, Dixons etc to their vintage equivalent, difference is night & day.

So I'd say do yourself a favour, get in touch with Bruce or search ebay etc for old tools first.

Would you say that VB modern pricking irons are the same quality as vintage vb pricking irons? Vintage dixons look like they are equal to modern vb, but hard to find in good quality.

Also does anyone one have experience with creaser tips that are added to soldering irons. I have the option of getting a soldering iron w/ the tips or an adjustable vb w/ an alcohol lamp, both are around the same in price.

[Macca]

a vintage iron with perfect teeth will be better, marginally, down to better steel.

You have to be very lucky to find a good set of vintage irons though, they are easily damaged/worn.

Ive never seen a decent set up using a soldering iron with creasing bits. Guess for the money its alright for doing a few lines but soldering irons (even those with temp control) are really not designed to have a lump of brass on the end so the temp control doesn't respond that well.

[mrtreat32]

I happen to have both a screw adjustable creaser from Tandy, and a used Osborne #1, and find that they both have their uses.

The Osborne makes a very fine crease, and with too much pressure will actually cut into the leather. It has a guide "blade" ( for lack of a better word) which is longer than the other creasing "blade". That helps to prevent the tool from wandering as I push it with a very slight toe in angle to keep it tight against the leather edge. The fine crease that the Osborne leaves makes a very attractive decorative crease, but is much too fine for a stitching crease.

The adjustable is a much more blunt tool and requires a lot of pressure. It also leaves a much wider crease which is great for stitching. It wanders a bit more on me, probably because both "blades" are the same length which requires that it be both toed in AND tipped toward the edge of the leather. I have also noticed on mine that one "blade" is slightly thicker than the other, so I use that to advantage for a slightly different crease. I haven't looked at any others, so I do not know if that is by design, or a fluke.

On veg tan, heat only makes a slight difference which is more noticable with the adjustable. I prefer the look that heat gives.

Alcohol burners are the tool of choice because alcohol burn very cleanly. A butane lighter will leave a deposit of soot on your tool which then has to be wiped off, which is a pain. The same is true of at least most candles. And if you don't get all of the soot off, you have a blackened crease on your work for the first few inches. I put up with wiping my tools for awhile but recently bought one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QDP42K/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1#

It has a wide heavy base to help prevent tipping, a thumbwheel to adjust the wick without snuffing it, a nifty little snuffer cap to snuff the flame and also slow the alocohol evaporation, and a cute little handle that is useful. I'm burning 90% rubbing alcohol which works fine, but denatured alcohol might be even better. I'm not so sure about 70% rubbing alcohol.

On awls, you are completely correct about blade length. It's good old geometry at work. The farther the tip of the blade is from your hand, the more it will move with every tiny movement of your hand. It's another thing that I put up with until I figured a few things out. My first awl was a Tandy multi-purpose with a wing awl blade, which was duller than the butter knives in my kitches. I used it because I did not know any better. It didn't take TOO long to realize that it had to be sharpened to be of much use. It took a little longer to figure out that the wing blade is a pain to use since it will always make a bigger hole on one side of the leather than on the other and consistent holes require very precise depth control. And finally longer still to figure out that it was too long. I now use awls with short straight sided blades that are sharpened and stropped to an almost mirror like finish and am MUCH happier, and my stitching is vastly improved. I'm sure that wing blades have their uses, but not for me.

I hope that helps more than it confuses!

Bill

That makes sense about the lighter leaving a deposit on the tool. Gonna order the burner you posted from the Amazon link.

thanks

[mrtreat32]

Just a general word of warning.

I see lots of posts (not just this thread) about buying VB & other expensive tools as cheap/mid price aren't any good.

VB, Dixons etc are not what they used to be.

They might still be good/ok but in all honesty they are no where near as their old ones, much cheaper steel & manufacturing techniques are used making new tools.

I'd always recommend trying to find a vintage tool first (only exception would be pricking irons & awls, you have to be very lucky to find an old pricking iron that isn't worn/damaged)

Ive compared (& bought) head knifes, skivers, creasers etc from VB, Dixons etc to their vintage equivalent, difference is night & day.

So I'd say do yourself a favour, get in touch with Bruce or search ebay etc for old tools first.

Agree that most old tools are probably of better quality. But like you said its hard to find certain types of older tools in good condition.

here in the US it seems if the style of leatherwork you are into is more towards european styled stuff there arent as many vintages tools that suit that style of work. Pricking irons are hard to find used and most of the nice older stuff seems to be more focused towards western saddle making (stitching wheels, groovers etc)

I have a Barry King awl haft that is beautiful and plan on ordering some edge tools of his as well but BK, Rons tools, and the other really nice modern tool makers in the US make the majority of tools for people interested in tooling and carving designs. If any of those makers made high end pricking irons and such I would purchase from them. Im sure the quality of these tools is better than modern VB in most catergories

Also owning a decent amount of VB tools so far it seems that some are still made very solid and some seem very average. Maybe they still make certain tools up to par of the older ones and have changed manufacturing of others. The pricking irons and compass I cant imagine being any more solid but a few others leave a bit to be desired. To me their stuff seems to be a step above most other large US made brands and goodsjapan( which people say is good for the price).

[bruce johnson]

Apparently good vintage pricking irons are not all that easy to find in Europe either. I get emails every week about them. Just to add another dog to the hunt here, most of the vintage Blanchard, Mayer-Flammery, and Dixon tools I get are then sold either back to Europe or to Australia (European influence). Less than a third stays in the US and the majority there are plough gauges. I can't recall selling a Blanchard knife within the US. I have sold a few to Canada, but most go to Belgium, France, Romania, Switzerland, Germany, and one went to Moldova.