Stirrup Leather Weights Question

[thenrie]

I'm sorry for this. I know this must get asked a lot, but I have looked back 25 pages and found nothing.

I need to replace the stirrup leathers on an old Hamley ranch saddle (it needs other repairs as well). They are full 3" width, but I'm not sure about the weight. I'm planning on buying a side of leather pretty soon for the other repairs on the saddle, as well as work on other things, and thought I might as well make my own leathers. Do I need 13/15 oz leather? Will 12/14 do, since they are full 3" width? I assume 13/15 is standard, since most makers make their own out of the sides they cut saddle parts from, but I'm not sure the original saddle leather is 13/15 oz.

This saddle was made in 1947, if that makes a difference.

Edited July 2, 2014 by thenrie

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

12/14 is not heavy enough for a usin' saddle. If the old leathers don't look that heavy, it could be because they are worn and stretched thin. If this saddle is going to get used, I would go with the heavier leathers and of course, pre-stretch and slick them down. They will not appear as heavy after the preparation and edging. Width makes less of a difference than thickness in stirrup leathers, as they usually tear from the holes outward. A word on restoring these old collectible saddles: Make sure you ask questions if you're not sure what you're doing. I cringe when I see the collectible value ruined by someone who re-lined the skirts on a saddle and missed every hole when they stitched them and put the saddle back together with ring shank pole barn spikes. I got an old E.C. Lee saddle in yesterday that looked pretty fair at first glance, but someone really did a number on it "restoring" it. Makes me want to cry.

Edited July 2, 2014 by Big Sioux Saddlery

[CWR]

When you get your side, take a straight edge and even up the top along the back. Cut your stirrup leathers from there. Start at the butt and cut towards the neck. I always punch my hole in the butt end and attach the front end to the leg of the fenders. Stretch them like Big Sioux said. Edge and oil the leathers before punching your holes. This will help in delaying the holes pulling out.

CW

[oltoot]

Duplicate the weight that is on them and you can't go wrong. With these old Al Ray buckles, the temptation is to punch the holes too big so they will be easy to adjust. Resist and punch the holes, very carefully aligned, just barely big enough. Firmness is as important as actual weight. Layout so the hole end is in the butt and the rest follows toward the shoulders, neck.

[thenrie]

Thanks for those replies. Answered all my questions.

Big Sioux, I agree fully with what you said. This saddle is a family heirloom from my wife's side. Nobody in the family wanted it, so it came to me. I never had much use for decorative saddles, so I use it. Best and most comfortable saddle I ever had. Howsoever, it has had quite a bit of "restorative" work done on it in the past. Neither of the fenders is original, the stirrup straps have both been spliced at least once. The last horse I had had a few minor blowouts, which resulted in more damage to the saddle. You can see where I hung a spur on the front of the seat jockey as I unloaded once, and another time I found a 1" diameter stick poking out of the cantle binding. There are a number of other scrapes and gouges, tears in the rigging leathers, as well as some deep cracking in the leather that occurred before the saddle came to me. By this time I'm not sure there is any value in having Hamley, or any good saddlemaker, "restore" it. About all that would be left of it would be the tree, the monogram on the back of the cantle, and the horn wrap. Figured that since the saddle is still going to be used, and since I am an aspiring saddlemaker, I might as well take on the stirrup leathers, rigging, cantle binding, and re-fleece. I'll just put a patch under the tear on the seat jockey and go with that.

Lesson learned: Don't use your best saddle to start a green horse!

Edited July 2, 2014 by thenrie

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

Actually, Thenrie, the saddle doesn't look that bad. Most of the repairs needed are general repairs that any saddle will need if used hard and long enough. Like putting tires on a car and doing an engine overhaul. This is a good saddle for you to practice on; you can learn a lot by taking good saddles apart. You are probably right about the saddle being of limited collectible value, since the fenders aren't original. Nonetheless, it is still worth putting your time and money into as a using rig. Since this IS a using rig, rather than a collector piece, I would be tempted to get rid of the Al Ray buckles and go with vertical holes on a different buckle of your choice. I know many people don't like the Blevins, for varied reasons, but they beat all the heck out of the Al Rays. Next one I build for myself is going to have laced stirrup leathers. Which might never happen, beings as I drive draft horses 99% more of the time than I ride a saddle horse. Good luck and keep us informed.

[thenrie]

Way ahead of you. Already bought the "Improved Blevins" with the vertical studs. In fact, I've about convinced my self to replace the seat, stirrup leathers, and rear jockeys with roughout and do a rawhide cantle binding to match the horn binding. Sort of make the saddle "my own". That way I don't have to worry about trying to match the original tooling.

I have thought about just lacing the stirrup leathers as well, being as this saddle will likely never be ridden by anybody but me...at least until I'm pushing up daisies and no longer worried about it. I may do that. No lumps, lighter, and I always did like traditional.