Making My Own Edge Finish

[whipstitchwallets]

I usually finish my edges by heating up bees wax and applying, but I am getting tired of having to heat it up. Because I use 2-3 oz leather for everything I do, I needed something softer so I mixed with paraffin. This 50/50 mix works well, but is still not soft enough. I am thinking of adding neatsfoot oil or something to soften it up further. Would this work? Anyone have a tried and true ratio? Would EV olive oil work? I may try with olive oil since I already have it at home...

Thanks

[DoubleC]

I've heard of the 50/50 mix but not adding oil. You don't need to use wax on the edges, anything wet will work. You could use saddle soap which is softer or even water. The burnishing heats it up and tightens the fibers so you get a nice edge. I just recently bought some Quik Slik from Sheridan Leather because only they sell it and I'll be using it today on some 3-4 oz cc holders I made if you want me to tell you how it works. Cheryl

[Hi Im Joe]

I use saddle soap first and then wax. White Fiebing's Saddle Soap is amazing stuff.

[whipstitchwallets]

Cheryl - I'd appreciate that, let me know how it works!

Joe- I use saddle soap first also

edit: I also want to add part of the reason I like to use the wax is because I don't use glue and it holds the edge together nicely

Edited July 11, 2014 by whipstitchwallets

[Hi Im Joe]

Out of curiosity...why no glue?

[DoubleC]

This is my first attempt at one of these so I know my sewing needs some help I need a smaller needle and thread but this is the smallest I have for my machine. Anyway I wanted you to see the edge primarily. It's a little blurry but you can still see the shine on the edge. All I did was put the quik slik on with a q-tip and use some denim to slick it. It's very smooth all the way around, even the top which I would have had to work pretty hard on if I'd used my usual saddle soap. And if you don't like this look be sure to check out hidepounder's tutorial on edges in 'how do I do that.' I'm sure you can get more answers in there. Cheryl

Oh meant to tell you that you can dye the edge after the quik slik.

Edited July 11, 2014 by DoubleC

[whipstitchwallets]

Out of curiosity...why no glue?

Mostly because I like to offer refurbs for my customers; they can send it back and I'll take it apart and give it the works. I do this on my own wallet every 1-2 years. Also, I find it takes too much time to do it neatly without offering much added benefit

Cheryl - thanks for taking the time to do that!

[Hi Im Joe]

Right on! I like glue just to help line everything up secure to stitch it.

[StrigaMort]

Not sure if this helps, what you do and I do (sheath making) is quite different, but here it is anyway...

I use a mix of beeswax melted in a double boiler and mixed with coconut oil. The stuff is becoming more popular and can now be found at walmart (inexpensive) and target (organic). It's really quite interesting stuff. It's a solid but melts at a very low temperature, maybe 80° or so.

I aim for a ratio that yields a mix that melts under reasonable friction, but stays stable under most conditions. I don't believe coconut oil goes rancid either, in fact many people use it on their baby's rashes. I recommend picking up a jar. If you decide not to use it in your work, you'll no doubt find another use for it. Like cooking.

Oh, lastly,I use this, not just on the edges, but to add weather resistance to my work. Good stuff.

Bad example, but it's what I got at the moment.

Edited July 18, 2014 by StrigaMort

[BDAZ]

I use a blend of soy wax and beeswax. Soy wax is available at a number of different meting points, lower than either bees wax or paraffin. I can't go too low because my products can get quite warm drying in the sun (145F) here in Arizona so I use a blend and works well. You can add neatsfoot or olive oil to the wax as well.

Cya!

Bob

[whipstitchwallets]

Not sure if this helps, what you do and I do (sheath making) is quite different, but here it is anyway...

I use a mix of beeswax melted in a double boiler and mixed with coconut oil. The stuff is becoming more popular and can now be found at walmart (inexpensive) and target (organic). It's really quite interesting stuff. It's a solid but melts at a very low temperature, maybe 80° or so.

I aim for a ratio that yields a mix that melts under reasonable friction, but stays stable under most conditions. I don't believe coconut oil goes rancid either, in fact many people use it on their baby's rashes. I recommend picking up a jar. If you decide not to use it in your work, you'll no doubt find another use for it. Like cooking.

Hey man, this sounds like it might be exactly what i'm looking for! I'll give that a shot

Thanks

Joe

[Fowlingpiece]

I sometimes use a concoction of hide glue and water and stain to color match the job. Gives a solid, harder glasslike finish for some applications.

[King's X]

There is somewhat of a recipe (not broken down) in this months Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal. I just use plain old glycerin soap and canvas rag. The final coat can be one of a couple of products currently on the market.

[whipstitchwallets]

Just wanted to say thanks again to StrigaMort.

I mealted down 1 part beeswax, 1 part paraffin, and 1 part coconut oil. The result was exactly what I was looking for! I think I will still add a coat of pure bees wax after for for added firmness and shine.

[Red Cent]

I am trying to picture burnishing something that thin. 'Course I am used to burnishing 8-9 ounce up to the thickness of two 5-6 ounce and two 8-9 ounce together.

Do you use a powered burnisher? Just curious.

[StrigaMort]

Hey that's great.

I had tried a couple of off the shelf products and didn't like the results. The coconut stuff goes on fairly well, although sometimes I have to apply a little heat when doing a stamped piece or whatever. If it catches a little in a groove or dip just run a hair dryer over it and it'll melt and soak in.

I ran water directly on the initial test piece for a while and it repelled quite well.

[whipstitchwallets]

I am trying to picture burnishing something that thin. 'Course I am used to burnishing 8-9 ounce up to the thickness of two 5-6 ounce and two 8-9 ounce together.

Do you use a powered burnisher? Just curious.

I only burnish 2 or more layers. I use a drill with wood burnisher with the saddle soap first, then I use canvas and wax by hand. When doing the canvas I lay the leather down flat and push at about a 45 def angle against the edge so there is support behind it, then I flip it over and do the other side. I finish middle of the edge with a hand wood slicker.

[Red Cent]

Sounds like you need a Dremel tool.

Saddle soap is a leather softener. I would not think it would lend itself to burnishing. Burnish is to make something shiny. To get a glass like or just a smooth edge, it would be better to stiffen the edge temporarily. A bunch of us use bar glycerin soap on the edges of our leather. We rub the bar on the edge and burnish.

Another world, huh?

[StrigaMort]

That's funny, I thought a lot of people use SS to burnish their edges. I use it. One benefit is that it doesn't resist dye. I do my initial slicking with it, dye (or not) then apply the finish. On the other hand, I haven't gotten a glass like finish so maybe I'm doing it wrong.

[Red Cent]

"Saddle soap is a proprietary compound containing mild soap and softening ingredients such as neatsfoot oil, glycerin, and lanolin."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saddle_soap

If I were to try to burnish the two ply 3/4 ounce stuff, I would barely wet the edge with water and alcohol mixed. Or just plain water. Maybe a 1/16th of the edge. Too wet and the edge will deform. Alcohol will dry the leather and make it a little stiff. After a minute or so, I would take a Dremel tool that would allow a light touch but rpm for some friction/heat.

The top one is a combined 8-9 ounce with a 5-6 ounce burnished with water and a drill press. The edge of the bottom one has been dyed and burnished. The spirit dye contains alcohol/thinner that really helps burnishing. And I do a lot of sanding on this big stuff.

[whipstitchwallets]

Thanks Red Cent! Before your second post, I tried glycerin bar soap. I think the result was indeed a little better than the saddle soap. I know some guys use both. Next time I'll try with plain water.

I'll have to look into getting a dremel tool; what would be the benefit of a dremel over using a hand held drill with wood burnisher attachment?

Thanks again

[Red Cent]

Kinda cumbersome ain't it? And, you can adjust your rpm from slow to scream. And I would think you would be able to finesse the Dremel (doesn't have to be a Dremel ) on that light stuff.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=Rotary+Tools

[kargandarr]

Walmart now has three other tools that are similar to a Dremel rotary tool. One is under the Hyper Tough brand name and resembles the Dremel closely.  Another one is made by Hart. The Hart brand tool is built in such a way that the motor and controls sit on a work surface with the tool chuck on a cable that is like the one that comes with a Dremel or the Hyper Tough rotary tool. The third one is made by Wen.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-1-5-Amp-Rotary-Tool-with-105-Piece-Accessory-Kit-AQ25018A/477158316

https://www.walmart.com/ip/HART-20-Volt-Cordless-Rotary-Tool-with-33-Accessories-Battery-Not-Included/643615942

https://www.walmart.com/ip/WEN-1-4-Amp-Variable-Speed-Rotary-Tool-with-Cutting-Guide-LED-Collar-100-Accessories-Carrying-Case-and-Flex-Shaft/664181538

[Nikos69]

On thin leather, 2 - 4 oz, Tokonole does a great job.