Nikos69

I agree with Fred. I have made a full drawer of acrylic templates which only take a few minutes to vector cut along with a cut-out for the maker's mark stamp placement and stitch holes if necessary. My favorite part of the acrylic is that it's transparent and allows me to perfectly center on patterned material (gator) or engrave marks (like an acrylic ruler) for quickly sizing bracelet lengths on a single pattern. Edges are smooth as glass and don't have problems with the knife gouging into it. I've also made stamps out of the 3mm acrylic which took about 15 min.

Nicely executed design. I like how your case keeps the watch at the same level as the pocket which retains muscle memory.

Crappy laser machines and crappy advice. If you’re going to spam this site with your substandard laser machines, at least consider becoming an advertiser. I see you also have another account to promote your company.

I’ve been using Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop for years and can’t get myself to start over on another platform. I used to make paper patterns but since, have converted them digitally with AI and either print the patterns out or cut them out on my laser when needed. If you can get yourself familiar with a free vector design program that will save you on a subscription fee.

Nice work. I make a lot of custom cigar related leather cases for cutters, lighters and cigars. It’s a good market to get into when you get involved with the cigar community.

Each laser machine will be different with settings. As Ferg said above, you need to do your own testing (speed, power, frequency and focus distance). I have a 50 watt CO2 (not omtech). For cutting, air assist is a must. I mostly cut 6-7oz veg-tan. Power is set to 100% and speed is set to what will cut through it. For engraving, I have settings with and without masking tape. Power and speed settings are roughly in the middle. If you want a darker engrave, you need to go out of focus a little. Make sure you save all your settings.

Another thumbs up for the Tormek. Have my T-4 for years and it does a great job producing quality edges quickly. Aside from kitchen knives, I've sharpened my skivers, quarter round and half round punches, scissors, etc.

The only reason you’re here is to peddle your laser machines. If you want to do it right, become an advertiser on this website.

With a straight stitch, the allowance won’t let you to flatten out the leather. Only way I can think is with a zig-zag stitch or a furrier machine that will stitch a loop over the top so the leather so it will flatten out. A 1 inch non stretch ribbon (or canvas material) can also be placed as a short liner and sewn at each end of the loop to keep it in place.

Your machine must not be good at all and people should avoid the company you work for that is linked in your signature. Your post is a cut & paste from their website. The majority of reputable, enclosed laser engravers will be rated as class 1 and considered safe under normal use with proper ventilation.

I am very impressed with Sinabroks punches. Precisely made and very durable.

I don't know if a diode is powerful enough to cut leather efficiently but you'll definitely generate a LOT of smoke doing the vector cuts along with that strong odor. I cut 6oz veg-tan often on my 50w C02 which is hooked up to a commercial blower. I can't imagine wanting to laser cut leather with a non-enclosed system.

OP is clearly a spammer.

Dwight, I was not targeting you, just showing your new BFF how you wanted to engrave bare buckles in one sentence and you referred to CO2 machine in the next sentence. And for Bert, you also explained that CO2 "won’t engrave bare metal". Hypocrite much? Shouldn’t be casting stones brother.

It was clearly implied so please keep your ignorant condescending attacks to yourself. First sentence he mentions engraving metal. Second sentence, he mentions the $400 Ebay machines which are CO2.