Nikos69

So you have decided but just need the money? Just start a GoFundMe page. Just don't understand how, after 2 years of research, you're asking twice the price of a Glowforge so you can end this thread.

You started this thread over 2 years ago and you're still researching?

Do NOT soak or dampen the leather. Ask your supplier for sample pieces of leather that he uses for the wallets so you can run a speed / power test on them. This way you'll find out the correct laser settings for his finished products.

I use a low tack crepe tape mask (found on Amazon) which doesn't leave a glue residue behind when removed. Since it's low tack, make sure it's first applied very well to the leather surface by rubbing it -- fingers, bone folder, microfiber rag, etc. Laser settings are just enough to remove / cut through the crepe mask cleanly. I'm not looking for a deep engrave because the paint looks better when on the grain. The crepe mask may come loose at few places while airbrushing... just pay attention and press it back when it does. I reduce the paint and apply multiple coats to build up the pigments slowly. Too much paint applied quickly will result in a tacky finish.

With a laser, you can cut to exact dimensions since the pieces should mate up perfectly if they’re designed correctly. If the stitch holes are vectored, I don"t even need to use glue.

I've seen people make stamps using 1/4" acrylic with good results. Every laser machine is different so the engraving parameters are not going to be much help. You're better off doing a test swatch -- this way, you'll see which settings on your machine will give you the best results.

Google image search for royalty free, black & white vector designs or you can also buy various designs from places like Etsy for a good price.

My usual routine is to dye first (lighter colors to get more contrast), then engrave and finish last with bag kote or resolene. This is my routine for making patches. Haven’t tried antiquing a laser project, but I would try a test piece that is dyed and resisted first. Have the laser engrave, and burn away the resist which should hopefully create mask to allow the engraving to absorb the antique and wipe away from unwanted areas. For color filled projects, I apply masking tape (vinyl free) to my project, engrave, airbrush and then apply a finish.

Etsy brings in the most sales and that's because my Shopify site is only a couple months old. Shopify has brought in a handful of sales on its own but I've been using it more to sell custom requested items to people on Instagram and avoid the Etsy fees. Etsy has its good and bad points but I'm frustrated with their BS policies which hurts the true artisans and helps the vendors that sell mass produced items as "handmade".

IG: NikosLeather / site: NikosLeather.com

I make custom cigar cutter cases that get worn daily that are dyed black with Fiebing’s Pro and some are accented with Angelus acrylic paints. I used to get the streaks until I started applying multiple thin coats to build up the color and finish with resolene. I haven’t had a problem with chipping. I also airbrush various products with custom colors instead of the limited hues I get with dyes and doing multiple light coats definitely works better than a thicker coat. Same goes for painting the edges with Angelus paints…. multiple light coats with sanding in between and top off with an acrylic finish.

If you’re going to make large batches, you’re better off with a laser system that can crank out multiple units per session. An enclosed system that will vent out the fumes would be ideal. K40, as mentioned above, would be the entry level but you may also need to make various adjustments and/or upgrades to get it to work consistently.

300 C? Damn, I do most of my hot foil projects around 100 C. I use brass stamps and and accidentally had the foil flipped once. I put 1000 grit sandpaper on my marble slab and removed all sediments by rubbing the stamp in a circular motion.

I've been using 5mm and even 6mm chisels with 5oz (2mm) leather on a daily basis for years now. Not sure why everyone is knocking it. Spacing and thread size is the maker's decision for the look they want to achieve with a given product.

Nice carving and use of a stoic quote.