Members whipstitchwallets Posted July 18, 2014 Author Members Report Posted July 18, 2014 Not sure if this helps, what you do and I do (sheath making) is quite different, but here it is anyway... I use a mix of beeswax melted in a double boiler and mixed with coconut oil. The stuff is becoming more popular and can now be found at walmart (inexpensive) and target (organic). It's really quite interesting stuff. It's a solid but melts at a very low temperature, maybe 80° or so. I aim for a ratio that yields a mix that melts under reasonable friction, but stays stable under most conditions. I don't believe coconut oil goes rancid either, in fact many people use it on their baby's rashes. I recommend picking up a jar. If you decide not to use it in your work, you'll no doubt find another use for it. Like cooking. Hey man, this sounds like it might be exactly what i'm looking for! I'll give that a shot Thanks Joe Quote
Members Fowlingpiece Posted July 22, 2014 Members Report Posted July 22, 2014 I sometimes use a concoction of hide glue and water and stain to color match the job. Gives a solid, harder glasslike finish for some applications. Quote
King's X Posted July 22, 2014 Report Posted July 22, 2014 There is somewhat of a recipe (not broken down) in this months Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal. I just use plain old glycerin soap and canvas rag. The final coat can be one of a couple of products currently on the market. Quote Greetings from Central Texas! The Grain Side Up blog #TheGrainSideUp
Members whipstitchwallets Posted July 28, 2014 Author Members Report Posted July 28, 2014 Just wanted to say thanks again to StrigaMort. I mealted down 1 part beeswax, 1 part paraffin, and 1 part coconut oil. The result was exactly what I was looking for! I think I will still add a coat of pure bees wax after for for added firmness and shine. Quote
Members Red Cent Posted July 29, 2014 Members Report Posted July 29, 2014 I am trying to picture burnishing something that thin. 'Course I am used to burnishing 8-9 ounce up to the thickness of two 5-6 ounce and two 8-9 ounce together. Do you use a powered burnisher? Just curious. Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Members StrigaMort Posted July 29, 2014 Members Report Posted July 29, 2014 Hey that's great. I had tried a couple of off the shelf products and didn't like the results. The coconut stuff goes on fairly well, although sometimes I have to apply a little heat when doing a stamped piece or whatever. If it catches a little in a groove or dip just run a hair dryer over it and it'll melt and soak in. I ran water directly on the initial test piece for a while and it repelled quite well. Quote Proud purveyor OMEGA Leather
Members whipstitchwallets Posted July 29, 2014 Author Members Report Posted July 29, 2014 I am trying to picture burnishing something that thin. 'Course I am used to burnishing 8-9 ounce up to the thickness of two 5-6 ounce and two 8-9 ounce together. Do you use a powered burnisher? Just curious. I only burnish 2 or more layers. I use a drill with wood burnisher with the saddle soap first, then I use canvas and wax by hand. When doing the canvas I lay the leather down flat and push at about a 45 def angle against the edge so there is support behind it, then I flip it over and do the other side. I finish middle of the edge with a hand wood slicker. Quote
Members Red Cent Posted July 29, 2014 Members Report Posted July 29, 2014 Sounds like you need a Dremel tool. Saddle soap is a leather softener. I would not think it would lend itself to burnishing. Burnish is to make something shiny. To get a glass like or just a smooth edge, it would be better to stiffen the edge temporarily. A bunch of us use bar glycerin soap on the edges of our leather. We rub the bar on the edge and burnish. Another world, huh? Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Members StrigaMort Posted July 29, 2014 Members Report Posted July 29, 2014 That's funny, I thought a lot of people use SS to burnish their edges. I use it. One benefit is that it doesn't resist dye. I do my initial slicking with it, dye (or not) then apply the finish. On the other hand, I haven't gotten a glass like finish so maybe I'm doing it wrong. Quote Proud purveyor OMEGA Leather
Members Red Cent Posted July 30, 2014 Members Report Posted July 30, 2014 "Saddle soap is a proprietary compound containing mild soap and softening ingredients such as neatsfoot oil, glycerin, and lanolin."http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saddle_soapIf I were to try to burnish the two ply 3/4 ounce stuff, I would barely wet the edge with water and alcohol mixed. Or just plain water. Maybe a 1/16th of the edge. Too wet and the edge will deform. Alcohol will dry the leather and make it a little stiff. After a minute or so, I would take a Dremel tool that would allow a light touch but rpm for some friction/heat.The top one is a combined 8-9 ounce with a 5-6 ounce burnished with water and a drill press. The edge of the bottom one has been dyed and burnished. The spirit dye contains alcohol/thinner that really helps burnishing. And I do a lot of sanding on this big stuff. Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.