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Posted (edited)

In sewing my first men's billfold from 5-6 ounce veg tan on my Cowboy 3500 I ran into trouble. As designed, the wallet needed stitching within about 1/8 inch of the edge. On the top, the stitch looked nice. But when I removed the sewn layers from the machine the bottom had wandered off the edge of the material and ruined the piece. OK. So I'm learning the limits of my machine.

How close should I be able to stitch to the un-supported edge of something on my new machine? I suppose thicker leather would not give this trouble, but I also know I see thin leather items machine sewn very close to an edge. Perhaps I should be cutting the pieces larger, sewing as needed then trimming the leather to within 1/8 inch? Some sewing techniques that work for me with fabric just don't seem to be transferring to leather.

Thanks for suggestions. Don.

Edited by Tallbald
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Posted

Pictures of the top and bottom stitches would help.

I use an edge guide and press my wallets against it as I sew. I also fold the back tightly over the interior and tape it down with 1/4" wide Venture Tape. Nothing moves this way.

Did you run off any test stitches first? Maybe the upper or lower, or both tensions need adjustments.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

Posted

Hi Wiz, I do not know this brand of tape, could you please enlighten me about it.

Thanks

Tor

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

  • Moderator
Posted

Do you stitch over the tape? I feel like if I tried to tape down a turned edge I wouldn't have enough meat for the tape to stick to.

All of my wallets thus far have the backs folded over the interior by a solid 1/4 inch, or slightly more. I use 2oz pigskin mostly, for the entire construction. These are not fancy carved or stamped wallets, but smooth backed functional ones like you would buy at J.C. Penny or Macy's.

When I make a stamped wallet, the edges are usually left unfolded, but dyed with shoe sole edge dye. If veg-tan worked back is to be folded over the interior, I skive the edges in about 3/8 inches all the way around.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Moderator
Posted (edited)

Hi Wiz, I do not know this brand of tape, could you please enlighten me about it.

Thanks

Tor

Venture Tape is double-sided basting tape for leather, sold by Wawak.com, a US based tailors' supply company. It is available in 1/4 and 1/2 inch widths, on 60 yard rolls. I buy this tape, as well as most of my zippers and 1 ounce patcher spools of nylon thread from Wawak.

Edited by Wizcrafts

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

Posted

Thank you Wiz; I try to find a good one that do not stick to much to the needle.

I will check it out.

Thanks

Tor

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

  • Moderator
Posted

Thank you Wiz; I try to find a good one that do not stick to much to the needle.

I will check it out.

Thanks

Tor

This tape is aggressive and can gum up lesser quality needles. Only use it with compound feed walking foot machines, or dual feed, as long as there is an inside presser foot around the needle. Patchers have trouble sewing through Venture Tape.

I use titanium coated needles on my walking foot and patcher machines. This reduces the sticking when sewing through the tape.

Unfortunately, system 794 needles don't seem to be available yet with titanium coating. When they are, I will switch over 100%.

Mother Superior (Bob Purcell @ Superior Threads) turned me on to these needles. Embroiderers and quilters use them, as do some factory sewers. Made for better heat dissipation, they also help sew through basting tapes and glued items. However, they do cost more than regular steel needles.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

Posted

Perhaps I need to chance my needles then and not the tape. I will try these needles my Norwegian supplier has them; "Groz Beckert

San-6 Gebedur": but I don't know in which system yet.

Do silicon lube help anything?

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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