Machine Sewing Close To An Edge

[Tallbald]

In sewing my first men's billfold from 5-6 ounce veg tan on my Cowboy 3500 I ran into trouble. As designed, the wallet needed stitching within about 1/8 inch of the edge. On the top, the stitch looked nice. But when I removed the sewn layers from the machine the bottom had wandered off the edge of the material and ruined the piece. OK. So I'm learning the limits of my machine.

How close should I be able to stitch to the un-supported edge of something on my new machine? I suppose thicker leather would not give this trouble, but I also know I see thin leather items machine sewn very close to an edge. Perhaps I should be cutting the pieces larger, sewing as needed then trimming the leather to within 1/8 inch? Some sewing techniques that work for me with fabric just don't seem to be transferring to leather.

Thanks for suggestions. Don.

Edited July 14, 2014 by Tallbald

[Wizcrafts]

Pictures of the top and bottom stitches would help.

I use an edge guide and press my wallets against it as I sew. I also fold the back tightly over the interior and tape it down with 1/4" wide Venture Tape. Nothing moves this way.

Did you run off any test stitches first? Maybe the upper or lower, or both tensions need adjustments.

[Hi Im Joe]

Do you stitch over the tape? I feel like if I tried to tape down a turned edge I wouldn't have enough meat for the tape to stick to.

[electrathon]

If you are not rolling the edge on the wallet leave all of the layers too long/untrimmed. Sew, then trim to size.

[Trox]

Hi Wiz, I do not know this brand of tape, could you please enlighten me about it.

Thanks

Tor

[Wizcrafts]

Do you stitch over the tape? I feel like if I tried to tape down a turned edge I wouldn't have enough meat for the tape to stick to.

All of my wallets thus far have the backs folded over the interior by a solid 1/4 inch, or slightly more. I use 2oz pigskin mostly, for the entire construction. These are not fancy carved or stamped wallets, but smooth backed functional ones like you would buy at J.C. Penny or Macy's.

When I make a stamped wallet, the edges are usually left unfolded, but dyed with shoe sole edge dye. If veg-tan worked back is to be folded over the interior, I skive the edges in about 3/8 inches all the way around.

[Wizcrafts]

Hi Wiz, I do not know this brand of tape, could you please enlighten me about it.

Thanks

Tor

Venture Tape is double-sided basting tape for leather, sold by Wawak.com, a US based tailors' supply company. It is available in 1/4 and 1/2 inch widths, on 60 yard rolls. I buy this tape, as well as most of my zippers and 1 ounce patcher spools of nylon thread from Wawak.

Edited July 14, 2014 by Wizcrafts

[Trox]

Thank you Wiz; I try to find a good one that do not stick to much to the needle.

I will check it out.

Thanks

Tor

[Wizcrafts]

Thank you Wiz; I try to find a good one that do not stick to much to the needle.

I will check it out.

Thanks

Tor

This tape is aggressive and can gum up lesser quality needles. Only use it with compound feed walking foot machines, or dual feed, as long as there is an inside presser foot around the needle. Patchers have trouble sewing through Venture Tape.

I use titanium coated needles on my walking foot and patcher machines. This reduces the sticking when sewing through the tape.

Unfortunately, system 794 needles don't seem to be available yet with titanium coating. When they are, I will switch over 100%.

Mother Superior (Bob Purcell @ Superior Threads) turned me on to these needles. Embroiderers and quilters use them, as do some factory sewers. Made for better heat dissipation, they also help sew through basting tapes and glued items. However, they do cost more than regular steel needles.

[Trox]

Perhaps I need to chance my needles then and not the tape. I will try these needles my Norwegian supplier has them; "Groz Beckert

San-6 Gebedur": but I don't know in which system yet.

Do silicon lube help anything?