Finishing Technique For Buttonhole Edging

[knavarette]

Made a dress out of some oil-tanned garment leather.

It buttons down the front with some screwback conchos.

Buttonholes: Do I have to finish them? Holes are cut from doubled-over leather (I folded back the edge so as to reinforce by the extra layer of leather), and are approximately 1 1/8" for 1" conchos.

They seem to be holding up so far (no additional tearing, except for one possible where the brand was on the animal but I'm not so sure if it ripped a little or if that was paranoid imaginings). You can't really see the holes themselves; I only want to finish them if it would actually improve the durability and/or functionality of the garment.

If I should finish them, what should I do? I already cut them, so is buttonholing out? Also, I don't know that my machine can do buttonholes (I have a Brother some model or other, and a Necchi Supernova ca. 1960s). I don't really know what options are left to me since I already cut the holes.

Thanks in advance!

-Katie-

[electrathon]

Pictures would help, but I will give a shot.

Normally, leather will hold up just fine with just a slit cut. If the leather is pretty soft it could be an issue, but as you have said there is already I doubt that you can run your machine around it. It also is likely more than most machines for home use can do. I have not seen any buttonhole attachments for commercial machines.

Edited July 25, 2014 by electrathon

[Nuttish]

You will have to do it by hand now that you've already cut the holes. Machines run parallel lines of tight zigzags with bars at the ends. You then cut the button hole open. Not the other way around.

Have a look at Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Shaeffer for excellent instructions on several traditional high end methods for binding buttonholes. http://books.google.com/books?id=fs9Iiw_zPZ0C&pg=PA91&lpg=PA91&dq=couture+button+holes&source=bl&ots=s8n6IP-K61&sig=G_1hp07nPYrvKdBF2VGTo5vwkUE&hl=en&sa=X&ei=IZDSU7-FGda2yASq0YCwDw&ved=0CB0Q6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=couture%20button%20holes&f=false

[Northmount]

Bound buttonholes are used on higher end coats, jackets. The long sides of the buttonholes have extra material added to give a rolled edge. I have a really nice leather coat with this style. I remember my mom doing coat buttonholes many years ago. And of course, for the most part, they are done by hand.

http://rhondabuss.blogspot.ca/2012/10/bound-button-holes.html

http://www.sewalongs.com/anise/anise-tutorial-bound-buttonholes

http://www.uniquepatterns.com/education/sewing-insider/71

http://sewaholic.net/bound-buttonholes-my-favourite-method/

Tom

[jimmy eng]

The Claire Shaeffer book Nuttish suggested is awesome, I have the non updated hard copy.

Since you've already made the cut I'd suggest a welt buttonhole (also called a bound buttonhole). http://www.sewalongs.com/anise/anise-tutorial-bound-buttonholes

It's suitable for leather and much more stronger than a typical machine/hand blanket stitch style.

If you want the typical buttonhole look though, hole punch the ends of your slit and blanket stitch by hand so it helps if from ripping at the weakest points (the ends of your cut). Use a upholstery or denim thread for this method. Use a sew-in intefacing if you think youd need more strength in the area.