paris3200 Report post Posted January 23, 2008 In the David Morgan books I have, it suggest finishing your work with thinned shellac. In the Grant books I don't recall him mentioning any finish. What are the pro's and con's of using shellac or any finish for that matter. Jason Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Opagon Report post Posted January 24, 2008 I too am curious to what all you other braiders are doing. Right now I am useing a light wax top coat on certain projects. I like the shine that finishes put on and that they help to make the leather more water repellent. I think that whatever is used it but be able to flex with the piece as it moves and not change the color. I am thinking of giving Fieblings acrylic resolene a try, any one use it? Heather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPNet Report post Posted February 4, 2008 I just used acryllic resolene on some 4 strand necklaces and I wasn't completely happy with it. I found that it leaves a white residue in all the little nooks where the laces cross. I think that if I pick up a soft toothbrush I will be able to go over it and clean it up, but that is going to be a bit of work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TracyMoss Report post Posted February 4, 2008 I despise the acrylic resolene. I'd say just some simple Tan-kote would do the trick, or some Lac Kote. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hedge Report post Posted March 26, 2008 I use Skidmore's and have used Dr. J's. Both give the finish I want. One thing about Dr. J's though. Don't let it freeze and then use it on braiding. Seems to form little white beads that are a pain to get out from between the lacing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomSwede Report post Posted March 26, 2008 I have about the same problems as you guys and really don't have much info (or experience)for you but this is another Fiebins acrylic finish, leather sheen, that I think look far better than their arcrylich saddle lac spray and Tandys super sheene. Only used it for a couple of items so far, one belt ("simple belt" post in showoff) and it seems to be working fine, customer have used the belt almost three weeks and is happy and then this one handle wich is for items currently in the makings. This handle has been forcefully testbended without showing any tendencies of cracking or coming off from stretch. Here's how it's built up, first a layer of fiebings pro red and a layer leather sheen then Tandy saddle tan (seem to stick well) and a topcoat of leather sheen again. http://www.fiebing.com/product.asp?typeID=8 Down on page you find the finishes mentioned here but super sheen. So heres a closeup that shows off the finish a bit, as always there's a problem with glare in photographing leather that I tried to keep to a minimum but the actual piece off course look better in a more normal lighting situation but I think the glare that I get with saddle lac finish is so troublesome that for the last stuff I did with that I just snapped the pics before finishing and with this finish it looks at least acceptable. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deadringer Report post Posted April 20, 2008 (edited) Hi all Shellac is the traditional finish for Kangaroo hide whips. It should be used in very light coats .This is the finish that I use on all the whips that I make it gives an excellent result.. It should be applied with a lint free cloth. Let to dry then reapply . Depending on how thin you make the shellac will determine how many coats you should apply. Cheers Chris Edited April 20, 2008 by deadringer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
entiendo Report post Posted May 21, 2008 The first practice piece I made Neat-lac was used. It had a beautiful finish! I just loved it and it seemed easy to use but very smelly! When I came home and went to order my own finish I found out Neat-lac was not available in my state any longer, so I had to buy Fiebings's Acrylic leather finish. I hated it! I had loads of trouble with those white spots as well and it didn't smooth over right. Then I was told to used it about 50/50 with water and that works perfect. I use a small soft paint bush, dip it in water, dip it in the finish and then apply. Now I'm getting along with it just fine and it's not overy smelly or toxic. I do have a little trouble when there is a sliding button on the piece but I think I'm even getting better at that as well. And I put it on all my pieces. It enhances the color. You can get it in different sheens. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ferret Report post Posted May 21, 2008 Recently decided to have a go at braiding and I've nearly finished this quirt Covered it with neat resolene and didn't have any problems, must just be lucky. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leerwerker Report post Posted June 1, 2008 Hedge, I use Dr Jackson's Hide Rejuvenator on all my Kangaroo braiding - it does not have the white co-agulated fat you find in Dr J's Conditioner. It is the closest I can get to using DFubbin, here in the USA. JOhan I use Skidmore's and have used Dr. J's. Both give the finish I want. One thing about Dr. J's though. Don't let it freeze and thenuse it on braiding. Seems to form little white beads that are a pain to get out from between the lacing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hedge Report post Posted June 1, 2008 Hedge,I use Dr Jackson's Hide Rejuvenator on all my Kangaroo braiding - it does not have the white co-agulated fat you find in Dr J's Conditioner. It is the closest I can get to using DFubbin, here in the USA. JOhan Thanks, Johan. I wondered what that stuff was! Makes sense that it shows up after freezing I'll try te rejuvenator next time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites