Why Did This Happen?

[Gump]

Water contains many minerals, and some may react with the dyes. You could try distilled water, which has no minerals or chlorine in it. Gump

[dickf]

My experience goes like this:

Dip dye a scrap piece in Fiebings Pro Oil dye (saddle color). Let dry. Blotchy. Tried 2 more times with different leather from different cuts. Same results.

It must not happen to everyone because a lot of people use the stuff, but I will say, Angelus and Lincoln dyes have NEVER done this and I've applied them to crap leather when I made the kids in the neighborhood holsters for cap guns. The holsters all came out uniform in color, as always.

[BHPshooter]

Actually, I was suggesting the other way around. While I agree that it's the water, I think the glued areas are retarding EVAPORATION more than penetration. Still some water in the holster when you (and I) dyed it. Not sure who decided I said it's the glue .... though it certainly was the glued areas.

Yes, that's what I meant -- the glued areas, not the glue itself. I understand what you mean.

My experience goes like this:

Dip dye a scrap piece in Fiebings Pro Oil dye (saddle color). Let dry. Blotchy. Tried 2 more times with different leather from different cuts. Same results.

It must not happen to everyone because a lot of people use the stuff, but I will say, Angelus and Lincoln dyes have NEVER done this and I've applied them to crap leather when I made the kids in the neighborhood holsters for cap guns. The holsters all came out uniform in color, as always.

I have yet to try Lincoln dyes (can't find anyplace that carries them), but I have had far fewer headaches since I started using Angelus dyes.

I actually ordered Angelus' Tan color to try this project again, I just haven't had the spare time to re-make the holster. I'll post the results when I get the chance.

[Splash]

I very rarely chime in on any thread since on my mind, I am still learning. I have been making holters for about 5 years. I dont dip dye, I either use a dauber or a piece of whool. I normaly use oil dyes, the only Angelus I use is their Pink dye. my process is as follow: I dye let dry and re-apply until I feel that has penetrated enough (airbrush if I am fading a two tone holster), then glue and stitch followed by wet molding. The only time I have gotten an uneven tone is when I rush something or use low quality leather (usually only for knife sheaths). after I wet mold, I let it dry for a few hrs (about 4 or 5) then I place my holster into my kydex heating oven at a ~150 Deg or so with the door not completelly closed. I do this to allow the glued portions to dry since they do not air out as the other parts of the holster. once it is out of the oven and it has cooled, I then oil the holster and let dry overnight before finishing it. for holsters I only use HO or W&C leather.

[Doc Reaper]

When did you purchase the dye? Was it shipped during the cold months? It may of gotten a bit frozen, I've had dyes happen when I lived in upstate NY.

[BHPshooter]

When did you purchase the dye? Was it shipped during the cold months? It may of gotten a bit frozen, I've had dyes happen when I lived in upstate NY.

I bought it about 2 years ago at a local Tandy shop. I know that it has never been frozen since I bought it (it's stored indoors) but I suppose it isn't impossible that it could have frozen before it was in my possession.

[BHPshooter]

Here is an update to this project, if anyone is interested: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=59263