Members zaynexpetty Posted August 24, 2014 Members Report Posted August 24, 2014 Hi all, I am having issues getting a nice clean burnish on natural (un-dyed) veg tan. This is my process: I sand with 80 grit to make edges even and square if necessary. Sand edges with medium and then fine. Trim the edges with a tandy edge beveler. Wet the edges with small wool dauber as neatly as I can. Burnish with a wooden hand burnisher (picture below, I wonder if the burnisher I am using isn't the best). Then I add beeswax to the edge, and burnish again with the same wooden burnisher. My problem is, I am not getting a very clean edge. After I put water on the edge and do the first burnish, water leaks or is pushed onto the face of the leather, away from the edge, either by the burnishing, or just by the water itself. It makes the face look messy and the edge not like like a straight edge. This would be easy to hide if I were to dye the leather before my final burnish, but it looks really messy on natural leather, and honestly, I would like to just have a solid method that looks good regardless if I dye or not. I have read hidepounders tutorial on finishing edges, but I don't really want to use the paste or paraffin, I am trying to keep it to beeswax/water, or any other natural product. Thanks! Quote
Members DavidL Posted August 24, 2014 Members Report Posted August 24, 2014 paraffin and glycerin are natural products I believe. you can use it if chemical base stuff is an issue. Look into heating tools (soldering iron) and Fenice edge paints they are what I'm looking at and they don't mess the face of the leather. A sponge with water or the paste spread on with the wallet held above the sponge/ rag and dabbing downwards is an option. Quote
Members zaynexpetty Posted August 24, 2014 Author Members Report Posted August 24, 2014 paraffin and glycerin are natural products I believe. you can use it if chemical base stuff is an issue. Look into heating tools (soldering iron) and Fenice edge paints they are what I'm looking at and they don't mess the face of the leather. A sponge with water or the paste spread on with the wallet held above the sponge/ rag and dabbing downwards is an option. The only problem with glycerin is that I have read that some animals might be allergic to it, and I plan on making dog collars, I would like to be able to use the same products throughout all of my items. I also know that paraffin is a petroleum derivative and can be harmful. What would I use a soldering iron for? I have one, but hadn't thought that it might be useful in leatherwork. What do you use one for? Thanks Quote
Members DavidL Posted August 24, 2014 Members Report Posted August 24, 2014 It replaces the edge slicker and burnisher part of the process and replaces it with special edge paint thats part wax(?) part dye and the heat from the iron smooths out the wax and the edge is smoothed out. It may or may not be able to be done with a edger, I don't see why it can't. Quote
Members zaynexpetty Posted August 24, 2014 Author Members Report Posted August 24, 2014 Do you have an example of what technique is used as far as the iron is concerned? Do you think just using beeswax would do the same thing, rather than the "special edge paint"? Quote
Members DavidL Posted August 24, 2014 Members Report Posted August 24, 2014 (edited) Beeswax is a finishing step after the paint. The tandy pro Fenice paint is available through tandy. glue plus reg. edge paint could work. I tested out reg. transparent glue only and its melts the glue to give it a smooth transparent edge. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Peter-Nitz/182186731147 halfway down there is a video. Edited August 24, 2014 by DavidL Quote
Members Macca Posted August 24, 2014 Members Report Posted August 24, 2014 Such bad advice here.. for veg tan, look at Bob's excellent tutorial http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18101 & ignore any advice about soldering irons & paint Quote
Members risa Posted August 24, 2014 Members Report Posted August 24, 2014 I've had that experience as well. I think the edges are too wet and the water seeps too deep and softens the edge, especially on single layer edges without any stiches. When I burnish on an edge that's too wet, it concaves on that edge. I'll dampen the edge with a wrung out canvass, and mount it on a pony to help burnish with even pressure. I'll try to attach a pic of the problem area and the stitched edge that I was happy with. Both just water and a nylon slicker on veg tan. Quote
Members risa Posted August 24, 2014 Members Report Posted August 24, 2014 http://instagram.com/p/sEynE9JrxR/ concaved edge http://instagram.com/p/sEy5WQprxn/ happy edge Quote
Members DavidL Posted August 24, 2014 Members Report Posted August 24, 2014 (edited) I wouldn't rule out soldering iron and edge paint its a legit way of finishing edges (especially since you already have a soldering iron). Its totally up to you though, the european way (edge paint + soldering iron) works on all types of leathers from veg tan to chrome and pull up, where the traditional way of burnishing does not, which is what you have ask for and works well for me. The soldering iron route does not need any paste of any sort, no paraffin, or duck canvas, just sanding, edge paint (or your own recipe of natural dye and something like wax), light brief sanding then touch up that the paint didn't set properly, and add beeswax (optional) and rub with fingers. Cuts down on my time and never had an edge go bad so far. Edited August 24, 2014 by DavidL Quote
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