A Terrible Way To Sew Up A Gusset

[DavidL]

@DavidL - Thanks for the kind words, David - It means a lot coming from someone with your taste in bags. Yes, Joe is right, it's just a single piece of leather for the strap.

#2, exactly the same amount you can see on the outside on the body, about 1/8 inch. Is there a certain amount that is supposed to be optimal?

After I use up my last two hides, I intend to start buying better leathers online, rather than depending on cheaper leathers from Tandy. However, I'm afraid I'll never be expensive purse material. My taste tends to run more towards a rougher look, like this bag:

s7-1136161_standard.jpg

However, who knows! Maybe in a year or two I'll be good enough to venture into thin, expensive leather.

If you do choose to go into expensive leather, saffiano leather($8-9) and premium calf skin or box calf can be had for close to 10 and upwards of 15 depending on the tannery. There are retailers with stock within USA. A bag would look interesting with half and half, like a hybrid of vintage and high end. Either on the trims you could use high end calf skin or on select parts like loops, interior, handles, strap or bias tape style trim on the inside to bind invisible seam grain side stitched to grain side. Sanding, distressing(pulling and stretching) some mid level premium calf skin can give it a vintage look. Horween leather on that style of bag would look great too.

the inside would hold up with 1/8th inch with extreme pressure like laptop bags and whatnot it could be an issue. Its not as important when its done this way but if its done like an invisible seam then more pressure will be on the seams and if its any smaller than 1/8th it could have some problems. Also if its a bit longer like .7mm or larger on the inside (invisible seam both pieces stitched together and the excess glued) you can cover it up with trim. The thicker the leather the more pull( exposing the invisible stitch) it will have with the invisible stitch on tighter curves, not usually seen in bags that are this size.

If you do try out piping on the side of the bag send me a message, I'm still trying to figure out how to do it properly. As a side note going to the dollar store and finding things like toiletry bags, and pencil cases (with piping, zippers,invisible seams and snaps) is a good way to learn new ways of assembly for not a lot of money and is faster because the items are so small, requiring less stitching.

I draw my patterns from disassembling the cases, taping the entire piece, cutting the excess off (the tape) and transferring the pattern to paper and re assembling from the cut out patterns. Each piece I learn a little more and get a feel for what areas need to be thinned, which areas require extra attention, ect. Good practice for all around, sewing different seams, pattern cutting different shapes, understanding the leathers better and assembly (glueing, cutting, placement).

[MonicaJacobson]

Thank you, David, that was a lot of in depth information. I'll probably start with Horween. But I find the calf skin idea very interesting. I'll certainly have to try it.

I'm planning on doing an invisible stitch on the bag after next (after I finish a briefcase style bag for someone) with some thinner leather. I'll let you know if I end up finding some good videos about piping. It really does make it feel more complete.

[Avgvstvs]

Your bag is amazing!

That's a nice design - sophisticated, elegant and truly imaginative.

You work really stands out.

Like DavidL, I think designs like this one and that of the satchel you posted a while back have a high-end luxury leather good type of look. I rarely see original designs that have that refined and classy look. Usually it's just too much to my eye.

And, like many have stated before, I don't think your design is rugged or rough, I find it's quite the opposite!

[Paulsleather]

Monica, love that lap seam! I hear you though, when I finished the duffle I swore it was the last. Keep up the great work!

Paul

[MonicaJacobson]

@Avgvstvs - Thank you for the extremely kind words. I do appreciate the encouragement. Congratulations, you guys have all completely convinced me to spend a lot more money. I'm sure my husband will thank you.

@Paul, were you the one who made the super fancy black duffle bag with all the hand stitching a few months back?

[Paulsleather]

Guilty as charged, Monica.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=54455

[MonicaJacobson]

I have a whole new appreciation for that carry-on. Sheesh. Not that I didn't appreciate it before - one of the nicest things I've seen - but now I really feel your pain. Or about 1/4 of it.

[Paulsleather]

Thank you, and again, excellent work.

[Hi Im Joe]

I was talking about the strap that has the hole for the sam browne stud. You could have stitched that to the front of the bag instead of the flap.

[MonicaJacobson]

Okay, I get it now. Duh. That's a cool idea - I'll try it on the next one.