A Terrible Way To Sew Up A Gusset

[Paulsleather]

Guilty as charged, Monica.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=54455

[MonicaJacobson]

I have a whole new appreciation for that carry-on. Sheesh. Not that I didn't appreciate it before - one of the nicest things I've seen - but now I really feel your pain. Or about 1/4 of it.

[Paulsleather]

Thank you, and again, excellent work.

[Hi Im Joe]

I was talking about the strap that has the hole for the sam browne stud. You could have stitched that to the front of the bag instead of the flap.

[MonicaJacobson]

Okay, I get it now. Duh. That's a cool idea - I'll try it on the next one.

[OdinUK]

It looks great. If i did something like that id have had to make it a little wider to get my mitts in. It looks very classy.

[craftsman827]

I wonder if that type of stitching can be done using a sewing machine ?

Can the bag fit into the machine to get to the bottom of the gusset ?

By the way, BEAUTIFUL BAG. I HAND SEW EVERYTHING, SO i KNOW HOW PAINFUL & TIME CONSUMING IT CAN BE.

[MonicaJacobson]

@Odin, thank you! Yeah, there's something convenient about being female at times.

@Craftsman - Thanks! I would bet that you could. Or anyway, you could make the gusset a little wider. But I've never used a leather sewing machine, nor have I even seen one up close, so I'm not sure. I think the difficulty might be keeping it on there, since you can't exactly pin it.

[leatherquestions]

Looks Great, but, I too tried that once. It is a living hell while making and wonderful relaxation when done.

Tip

[TwinOaks]

That kind of gusset, where turning the bag inside out wouldn't help.....it just screams "Patcher machine". The only thing is getting a patcher to handle the larger thread like that.

** For reference, the patch machines (Singer 29, et al.) have a narrow arm and the feeding foot can swivel/sew 360 degrees, without moving the material. They typically have very small bobbins, too.

[MonicaJacobson]

Thank you, Tip. One of those things you do once, swear you're never do again, and then actually do it again, and wonder what possessed you. I haven't gotten to the second time yet, but I'm sure I'll get there.

@Mike - I had no idea such a machine existed. It sounds like a sweet sewing machine!

[tomstas]

Hello ,

I'm Tom from Belgium and I've been visiting this forum for over a year but never posted much, I'm learning so i mostly read everything on here.

This week I've made myself a messenger bag using the same stitching method as in this topic. I must say that it was time-consuming but not as difficult as I thought it would be.

The way I did it was starting with the left backside and stitched all the way down,then I stopped and left the thread with the needles in and then I did the same thing on the right backside with a second pair of needles and a new thread. After this was finished I did the bottom left and then the bottom right, continuing with the same thread.

The last step was the front ,again first the left and then the right side.

I used a stitching pony for the backsides and after that I found it easier to go on without the stiching pony. I layed the bag on my table.

I also have a adler old patcher (30-1 i think) with a lang arm and this sewing machine is ideal for this kind of stitching but it's needs consisting turning on the wheel to become a nice stitchin patron. I need to practice that...

That's all for now, maybe I'll start posting more from now on.

greetings from belgium

Edited September 1, 2014 by tomstas

[tomstas]

Here is my bag , i have another messenger which is based on monica's messenger bag(the one with the pinstriping ). I really like the things she makes so you can call me a fan

Edited September 1, 2014 by tomstas

[MonicaJacobson]

Tomstas, interesting, you started from the back and came forward? That takes some nerve. Generally speaking, I like to start with two even ends. With my luck, if I tried what you did, I'd end up with an inch leftover at the front. Your bag looks great! As long as one compensates for the trouble by charging more.... the look might even be worth it.

I'd love to see pictures of your other messenger bag, if you get a chance.

[tomstas]

hi Monica,

it took some math and carefull measuring to start from the back but it worked out fine. it was also first time I took my time to make this bag.

People say I am always running instead of walking. I try to calm down on my latest projects and that really shows at the end.

I'm uploading the picture of the first messenger bar . I had no experience in leatherworking . I only did a little piece of carving .

My teacher and I come up with the idea of doing some oldschool bag made out of one piece. One day i came on this site and found your bag and I really liked it.

I didn't wan't to steal your idea so I've put some of my own ideas in it. But I've to admit that the pinstriping is almost the same as yours, hope you take this as a compliment of your work.

The side are kept together using copper rivets, turned the other way , I had to fit a small anvil in the bag using some wood to get the desired hight

Edited September 1, 2014 by tomstas

[MonicaJacobson]

Yeah, I'm too lazy for careful measuring. Or, let's be honest - I measure and count, and then have to re-do because I miscounted and mis-measured.

Sweet! It looks great, and I'm glad you liked it enough to make your own. In fact, yours looks better because you rounded the corners of the flap. If I can find it, I'd even send you the original artwork. It's not like I can claim credit for it anyway - my designer husband drew it for me.

I've had to learn the same lesson in patience. I tend to be slapdash and careless, so leatherworking helped me a lot. Mostly, this forum has helped me a lot. It's been awesome to see what everyone else makes, and benefit from the generous time and help people are willing to give.

Good luck on your future projects, and I look forward to seeing them!

[tomstas]

thank you for liking it, that means a lot to me.

I'm glad I'm not the only one who struggles from time to time. I'm just glad that there is progress in each new piece I make.

Btw, I still think yours stands out more because of two-tone . That is what caught my eye..

you don't have to send me your design(it's appreciated) as I,m more confident now myself and want to keep making unique stuff that comes from my own mind rather than copying other people's work. It gives me a better feeling when it's finished

p.s. I also found a second pictureof the bag which shows the rivets.

Hope to see more from your stuff as well.

Keep up to good work

[MonicaJacobson]

Yeah, the rivets are actually really cool. I might like it more than the original bag construction. By the way, I looked through your pictures for a minute, and the little tiny bag is hilarious. Also, the knife roll is cool.

[PANTHER]

Monica,

I get that this was painfull for you but I'm having a hard time understanding why. Here is how I do my bags.......if the strap is to be stitched on I do it before the gusset is attached to the body. then I stitch the bottom of the gusset to the body. next starting from the right or left I stitch from where I left off stitching at the bottom and stitch up to the top then do the other side the same way. What helps me some times is to use a thin line of glue on one side to attach the gusset to the body to help the alinement of the holes then the otherside just falls into place as I stitch. Not sure if this helps you but then I'm not sure what your process is.

Panther

[tomstas]

making small things is actually a cheap way of practicing your technique and people always like those cute small things.

I gave this to my son's teacher at the end of the schoolyear. She almost cried when he gave it to her.

Small things also make you do your work more detailed which benefits in your bigger projects to.

[MonicaJacobson]

Panther,

Can I see a picture of your bags?

Glue is a great idea. I have been working with the idea that one should try to use one piece of string, if at all possible. The more pieces, the more doubled stitches show up. However, I can see how your method would really help out this bag construction. Honestly, I hadn't even considered a better way to sew it together, especially one that meant beginning and ending several times. Thanks!

Tomstas, you're not kidding. Watch bands, for instance. I haven't tried one because I haven't got the tools, but before the last six months, I wouldn't have known I needed other tools. That, for me, is progress.

[tomstas]

I didn't use glue 'cause it's always a mess in my case.

I just use an Iron tool with 5 teeth on it (sorry don't know what is called) .

If you used it 20 times on your big piece, than you have to reapeat that amount on your gusset. You check if your correct by placing them next to eachother.

after that you mark your first gusset hole and first hole of your big piece with a needle and a cork or something else that keeps them together. You begin to backstitch 3 holes further and when you come to the first hole you remove the needle with cork

[PANTHER]

Monica, sorry for the delay. life has a way of sending one in other directions. Anyway here are two of my bags....the first is a gift which now resides in Greece and the second one is my computer case. As you can see things like the pockets and the d-ring holder are attached before I lace or sew the body. Have any questions I'll try to answer as best as I can.

Panther

[MonicaJacobson]

Oh yes, I remember the one with the frogs. I like your distinctive tooling style. I usually sew on pockets and d-ring holders first as well.

[PANTHER]

Thanks, so next time just try the way I do it, bottom first then one side at a time. Would like to know if it workes better for you.

Take care

Panther