glockanator Report post Posted August 31, 2014 This is the first holster of this style I have ever made and I am having some issues with it.when put on the belt and you try and pull the firearm from the holster it tends to want to rock the top of the holster into the body and the bottom away from the leg Making it very awkward to draw Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jdmracer12 Report post Posted August 31, 2014 Nice work! i love black with white thread. as for your drawing issue, it seems that there may be too many edges for the pistol to hang up on. one easy way to remedy that would be to put a leg strap on the bottom. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve75 Report post Posted August 31, 2014 (edited) Nice work. The molding really stands out as does the use of white thread on a black holster. However, I think you put a little to much detail in your molding or fitting the holster to the gun. Most of the holsters of that style that I have seen have little to no molding work done on them. Retention on these holster comes from a hammer thong. Edited August 31, 2014 by Steve75 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Cent Report post Posted August 31, 2014 Yep, way too much detail (really looks good) to enable any kind of a smooth draw. The other extreme is a World Fast Draw holster is a bucket/pouch that the handgun will jiggle around when you walk. Legal. Cowboy Fast Draw requires that the holster "fit" the gun but with zero retention. In SASS, you won't ever see detail molding. The shooter must draw quick and holster quick. We usually holster on the move. We need a big hole to hit when we holster the gun. Keep the detail but wrap some tape around the cylinder. Cover the bottom edge and sides. Not much. If the six shooter is a fixed sight gun, should do the trick. Blackhawks and the like have a big front sight. I use a pencil taped to the top of the barrel from the frame to the back of the front sight. Slope the back of the pencil where it meets the frame. That area of the leather will trap the front sight when it dries. Read it in a book somewhere. In addition, that is a high ride holster. Ergonomics will influence the draw causing pressure to be placed in certain areas. If that was hanging halfway between hip and knee, the natural motion of straight up would help some. If you had it tied down . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
glockanator Report post Posted August 31, 2014 THANKS! I will try that Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blackey Cole Report post Posted September 4, 2014 Take a look at either of these sources. The first is a book of period correct leather gear it's " Packin Iron". And the second is a very detailed three DVD set from John Bianaci "The Artistry and Secrets of Advance Western Holster Making". The both go great together. The book gives you ideas for patterns and the DVDs give you the techniques for creating those ideas. A disclaimer is the belt and holster john builds in the DVD is the typical single bus card rig. Although the belt could be modified quickly cutting off the drop loop and be an excellent ranger style gun belt with another mod by tapering the ends and forgoing the billets for the ranger style you have a plainesman belt. The holster will work with all three belt designs with little to no mods iirc. Then you just redisn your holsters for the various styles weather it be a strap like he shows or a Mexican loop holster or a slim Jim to even a speed holster by tucking here adding there etc. the techniques cover pattern design and making, selecting leather, fabricating a gun belt and holster. Finishing etc. his current gun belts with a single holster run in the $500 give or take range. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
