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AnnetteCook

Folded (Rolled?) Edge Sewing

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Hi - I'm new to this site, and it's GREAT! I've been designing and making handbags for about 5 years now, and started working with leather about 3 years ago. Can anyone give me guidance on making leather strapping with the edges turned in? I've had production runs of my bags in Mexico (HUGE MISTAKE) and in the USA, but would like to learn how to make my designs myself, at least for sampling. I have the Weldwood gluing thing down pretty well, but would love to be able to actually sew the bags, too. My machine 'collection' includes several home machines, a Tuffsew walking foot machine, and an old Singer model 143W2 with a 1/2 hp clutch motor, if that means anything to anyone!

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Welcome to Leatherworker.net!

For making rolled edges, there is a topic in the "how do I do that" section called "KK tutorial". Kevin King graciously made a picto-tutorial showing how he makes his wallets- including a french edge. In the 7th - 9th sets of pics you can see how he sews down the binding leather to the exterior, wraps it to the inside and secures with seam tape, then sews it into place and trims the excess.
For sewing the leather yourself, the walking foot machine is going to be your best friend....but you may need to slow it down**. There is detailed information on this in the sewing machine section, but in a nutshell, you will need at least a speed reduction pulley. There's also additional options like servo motors, which will slow the machine down while maitaining the torque needed to get through the leather

**if you have years of sewing experience, then you may NOT need to slow it down. It's just a common thing done to help with control and power**

ETA: here is another KK tutorial on wallets

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Thanks so much, Mike! I'll find the tutorial.

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That KK tutorial was tremendously helpful. Are there any tutorials out there to help me figure out how to sew strapping with the edges folded in? I can't figure out how to upload a photo of what I'm looking for... we all have our strengths, and technology isn't one of mine!

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http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=30270

From the sounds of it you'd be doing rolled edges like in the link above on both sides of the strap, putting the 2 together and sewing. Can't think of any other way without some godawful bulging at the edges of the straps, anyhow!

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To make straps with the edges folded (rolled) in, you need to skive all the long edges so they are thin (1/2 thickness for double plus a little more than your seam width), dampen slightly (depending on the leather), fold the edges over to make nice straight edges, press down tight with a bone folder, glue in place, do the same for the other layer, glue the stack together, and stitch the edges.

If you don't skive the edges down, then the strap is 4 full thickness layers on the edges, and 2 layers in the middle. Not pretty.

Now if I just had a nice power skiver!!! Then I'd be set. I'm not very precise at skiving by hand, so I don't make straps this way. And of course, they don't look as nice.

Tom

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Yep, pretty much as I thought Tom - I don't make em like that either, for that exact reason!

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Thanks, guys! I'll give it a shot.

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