Rose Head Knife Clean Up And Repair

[GerryR]

Thank you for detailing all that. I am challenged when it comes to restoring wood pieces. In fact, I am challenged when even trying to get a good finish on new wood. Thanks again

[Oldtoolsniper]

GerryR,

Try that finish on some scrap wood. I learned it from an instructor at Palomar College while attending classes in furniture technology, it's woodworking with a fancy name. It's a simple easy finish on smooth wood. The story is that the recipe came from Sam Maloof and is what he did on his rocking chairs. I don't know if that's true or not but the finish works and is easy to do. I use it on duck calls so it's even pretty durable.

[MakerUnknown]

Great post for all that information. Thanks

[Macca]

Great post

Thanks for the detailed breakdown

[Tannin]

Just re-visiting this thread as I have just purchased a vintage J. Dixon Double Head Knife. Wow, oldtoolsniper, you really did do an amazing job restoring that round knife - more like an upgrade Fortunately the one I got doesn't need much work - probably just sharpening and perhaps some attention to surface corrosion/pitting. Would appreciate any thoughts/advice/suggestions on how to proceed*:

This one is just 3" across and 6" long in total - so smaller & the end corners "tighter" angled than my 5" head knife (which I am enjoying learning to use - scary but it focuses the mind & demands boldness). The handle is somewhat longer & simpler than the current model - perhaps quite old?

*BTW I now have a 4" soft polishing wheel kit that came with several different grinding/polishing compounds (green, blue & red - & I have my own white compound too) - which I could use, if appropriate(?). In the UK, removing patina can drastically reduce the value of old stuff - so I need to get the right balance between this being my working tool and it being a piece of our shared history.

Edited July 13, 2015 by Tannin

[Oldtoolsniper]

In the UK, removing patina can drastically reduce the value of old stuff - so I need to get the right balance between this being my working tool and it being a piece of our shared history.[/i][/size]

Here is my personal take on "patina" it's usually rust. Rust to me adds no value to a tool. Antique dealers like to say it adds value but I can guarantee you that the "patina" free tool will almost always sell for more money at an auction and if given the choice between the two most folks will pick up the "patina" free version of the tool. It's marketing and its effective but which of the two knives that I showed would you buy? The rose knife complete with "patina" or the Rose knife after removing the "valuable patina"?

Find a run of the mill knife and go through the steps in this thread, it will really help you in the long run and if it's just a common user knife then you won't be afraid to booger it up learning. That's how I did my first one. It turned out so well I use it all the time. It's an Osborne and it requires constant honing to keep an edge but it looks nice and feels good in my hand. I cut the handle down so I push it with my palm, it's modified, "patina" free and useful so it's collector value is destroyed according to dealers.

Once you do one you will see all kinds of them selling on eBay for not a lot of money. I have around twenty or so different ones and they all are going to be "patina" or rust free when I'm done with them. I've been surprised by a couple I have, one has no name and holds an edge forever as well as being extremely thin and another is a Shapleigh brand that really is a smooth, edge holding cutter as well.

I don't buy osbornes anymore unless they are selling for under $15.00 because most of them don't hold an edge worth snot. I really don't care for working tools that require me to work on them all the time to keep them working.

Decide weather you have a tool that you are going to use or one you are going to collect. From that perspective then decide how to proceed to get the end result you are looking for. If you have something that is truly rare then I would sell it to a collector of those things or donate it to a museum so others may enjoy it.

Edited July 13, 2015 by Oldtoolsniper

[bullmoosepaddles]

Several of you folks have mentioned restoring old tools. How is it you know how to tell the difference between more and less desirable Osborne knives?

I wish to try this for myself and while I understand there is a learning curve, I would rather rework a knife that will give me better service than the Tandy model I currently on.

[Oldtoolsniper]

Several of you folks have mentioned restoring old tools. How is it you know how to tell the difference between more and less desirable Osborne knives?

I wish to try this for myself and while I understand there is a learning curve, I would rather rework a knife that will give me better service than the Tandy model I currently on.

Most of the knives out there will be better than a Tandy knife in my opinion. I'm not going to give you a definitive answer to your question and here is why. Knives from the same manufacturer vary so to say one is better than the other based on a name is not entirely correct. There is the age factor and how many hands it's passed through and what each set of hands has done to it. The best cutting, feeling and overall performer I own does not even bear a name. I've gone through twenty five or so knives, one of my hobbies is restoring old tools. This applies to all cutting edges from those old tools, a name does not guarantee the blade is good. My dad sharpened everything on a grinding wheel until the metal turned blue then quenched it for temper. When you buy used you may well be getting a tool my dad or someone like him owned. You won't know it until you know it and then it's to late.

Here is what I would recommend. Buy an inexpensive one on eBay, don't get wrapped up in a name right off the bat. It's to learn on. Do not buy one that the blade is full of pits. You can't sharpen pits. It takes a while but they are out there and you can get one for $30 or so dollars. Use it to learn on. I don't know how else you would do it if learning is your goal.

If you just want a good used knife I'd get in touch with Bruce Johnson on this forum he resells knives he's has gone through. I have not purchased from him but many here have. They cost more but he has to put a few hours of labor into each knife and from his reputation on here I'm betting you will be getting a good sound knife.

You can't really tell until you learn and you learn through experience. Just looking at a knife only tells you what the surface looks like and no more. There is no one who can tell you if it will hold an edge just by eyeballing it.

To me it's part of the hobby, I enjoy the challenge of doing it. I haven't gotten into reselling knives I've cleaned up because each one is different. If I ever do rest assured it will be at a loss compared to the hours I have into each one. I polish them out to a mirror finish it's just not nessasary to do that but l do because I like it.

Get one and I'll offer up as much advice as I can on making it shine. Be warned its not a cheap way to get a knife unless you have all the tools to do the work already and your labor is valueless, in other words it's a hobby.

[bullmoosepaddles]

Oldtoolsniper,

Thank you. I do have the tools from years of woodworking. Its just I have read articles where one person seems to have the idea that an old oval or round makers mark are better than the others. I wanted to try to buy the best rehab I could. This will not be a business venture. I want a few good ones for myself. After that I am done.

If I need advice I will certainly ask. Your reworks are things of beauty.

[zuludog]

Though I don't have a round knife I have been buying & using old & secondhand tools for car mechanics & leatherwork out of necessity. I keep seeing these sort of discussions, and my attitude is this - one man's patina is another man's dirt

Bugger the sentimentality! Tools are meant to be used, so get them as clean and as sharp and as shiny as you can!