My first try with Hermann Oaks Leather

[Randyc]

I've received a 6/7oz and 8/9oz sides of Hermann Oaks leather from Weaver Leather Supply. I cut a pattern from the 8/9oz side. This is probably the toughest leather I have ever cut.

I cut the pattern from the back section. Should I have possibly cut from the middle section or sholder, and saved the back for cutting straps?

Has anyone else found Hermann Oaks Leather to be this tough to cut?

I hope I won't have to drive my car over it to get it to mold properly

Randy

[Cowboy Crafts Online]

Randy,

All the Herman Oak I have ever used was hard, I bought it direct from the factory and it was suppose to be # 1's. I went back to Wickett & Craig, I like it the best.

Ashley

[Shorts]

Randy, I found HO to be tougher to cut as its 'firmer'. Makes my fingers sore and I have to use more pressure. But straps are easy as it just slices.

As for wet molding, it's super easy to mold.

I think you'll accept the 'tougher to cut' characteristic when you get your item finished. I really dig HO

Edited November 3, 2008 by Shorts

[RawhideLeather]

Hi Randy. I feel your pain. I posted here about my awful order from Hermann Oak a while back. I may have forgotten to mention how difficult it was to cut. Very tough as well as abrasive. I have to sharpen my tools a lot more because of it. Hands down it was the worst leather purchase I have made from a premium tannery. They definitely lost me as a customer. Hermann Oak used to be great stuff, wonder what happened? I can't wait until it's all gone and I can go back to Wickett and Craig which is much easier to cut and mold.

[yaklady]

Personally, I love Hermann Oak. I find Wicket and Craig to be too soft and mushy. I had a lot of waste with it. Hermann Oak is tough, the the things I make I want to be tough. I have no trouble with molding, dyeing, carving or anything else. Hermann Oak is my kind of leather.

[Art]

Hi Randy,

Actually, it is quite easy to mold and once dry holds well. It is a rather hard tannage and you might find some hard patches (like the center is still rawhide) up in the sholder/neck area. Nonetheless, for belts and holsters for heavy duty use, there is nothing better. Dip dyes well too.

Art

Has anyone else found Hermann Oaks Leather to be this tough to cut?

I hope I won't have to drive my car over it to get it to mold properly

Randy

[steveh]

I like hemann oak, it is harder tannage. It is also a dryer tannage. I like fenders and skirts to have some firmness and rigidity.A good quality sharp knife will cut herman oak. When cased it tools very well, and the stamping impressions are clear and deep and remain there. when oiled with neetsfoot oil, it finishes with nice natural color.Plus it is domestic leather tanned in the USA.That means alot.That is not to say that you cant get a bad hide with hard spots though.

Steve

[Randyc]

Thanks guys,

Once I got the stuff cut, it did mold quite nicely. I'm using Hermann Oaks for my holsters. I just finished up on a 8/9 oz. tunnel and loop holster and it molded as well as I can mold that thickness of leather.

I just shipped off one of my pocket holsters to a customer in Oregon. I used the 6/7 oz. hide for that one. The molding looked real good.

I'm currently working on a tunnel and loop sheath for a Buck folding hunter knife and a tunnel and loop holster for a customers airweight Smith & Wesson J Frame.

Randy