Seat Padding

[keplerts]

I need to put a padded seat on a customers hard seat saddle. I am wondering what you all would use as the rubber padding. How thick should it be? I saw Weaver has rubber seating that is a 1/4" thick. I would think 1/2" would be better. Any insight anyone can give would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

Tom, I use 1" my self. I am sure others have other suggestions, so the best I can give you is what I do. I get my foam from an auto seating shop here in MI. I am sure you have them out there in PA also. I buy it in 4' X 8' sheets. I use it the same way that Al Stohlman's book says to do it. That has always worked for me. I have probably done at least 100 or so of them this way with no complaints. Hope this helps.

Bob

[GrampaJoel]

I get mine at the auto upholstery shop too, like Bob. There's a great one about 20 minutes from me.

I think the last padding I used was 3/4", but it was more like a dash padding firmness.

I suggest you go to a shop find the foam you like, sit on it and see how much it compresses.

I don't like the foam that compresses down to nothing.

If it compresses down to nothing, why have it in the first place?

[oltoot]

I have been using 5/8 closed cell backpacker's sleeping pads for years. Whatever you choose, closed cell is of the utmost importance and the denser the better

[rdl123]

I just picked up some of this stuff: http://www.sheridanleather.com/Seat_Foam_p/seat-foam.htm

Seems pretty firm - Looks like it should work real good - Only 1/4" thick.

R

[keplerts]

Sorry for the late "Thank you" for your replies. I have been away the last two weeks. Bob, I thought about the stuff that Al uses in his book but thought it might be to soft. And I don't think it is closed-cell. The stuff from Sherian Leather looks good but It seems 1/4" would be to thin. Weaver sells 1/4" stuff as well.

Oltoot: Why is the closed-cell so important? Is it because of water?

Thanks, again!

Tom

[oltoot]

Yes, moisture retention can equal yeech, eventually. When I was learning in TX, the boot topstitch patterns sewn on with a roller foot were the place that competition amongst craftsmen reigned. Still seems to be part of a large segment of the industry but my observation over the years of use, repair has been that stitching provides an avenue for moisture invasion and usually leads to breaking up the padding after awhile. Even if rain is kept off, hairy butts sweat and guess where that can go and lead to odor, mold, etc. So I joined the part of the clan that eschewed decorative stitching and I joined the smaller part that said well if we're gonna guard the gate a little let's take it one step further and use the closed cell foams. Short answer was just the yes.

[keplerts]

Oltoot, you crack me up with your humorus explanations and tidbits of experiences you have had! I'm with you on the decorative seat stitching. This seat is going to be plain. And closed-cell it is! Thanks again.

Tom

[GrampaJoel]

A closed cell foam retains, and regains its size quickly because the air in the closed cells have no where to go. Hench when used for padding tends to retain its thickness. Adding confortable to the seat.

[True Partner Saddlery]

Closed cell foam like vinyl nitrile like Weaver sells and foams like Cashel uses in their pads will start breaking down because the air bubbles start popping after repeated compression. I have seen major seat bone depressions with these types of foams. The need for closed cell for not allowing moisture is still there. I do not like the memory type foams for seats because it is not comfortable when riding long hours. We compete in competitive trail and have done so for the past 28 years. The soft foam can work it's way up if you know what I mean. What I found is a combination of closed and open in one of the Poron gasket foams that is 3/8 thick. It is firm enough and water will not readily seep in. It has a smooth finish as well, which helps. I then try to use a Bison cover because it seems to bead water pretty well. This foam has a 20 year life left uncovered and will not show depressions. It also absorbs impact very well.

Regardless of the type of foam used, if the ground seat is not formed properly, it will not provide the most comfort over the long haul.

[NavyVet]

Here in Florida we have Craft stores that sell the outdoor seat foam for patio furniture. It is a closed type of foam that is also resistant to mold and bacteria. The best feature is that it can be cut and shaped with a HOT knife. This enables me to use stacked foam layers and have it thinned way down along the edges.