What I Was Doing Wrong ?

[nargil]

Hello guys,

yesterday I finished tooling my first armguards and I decided to dye it. I was following video tutorial from youtube but it didn't went so well.

So I want to ask what I was doing wrong and how should I improve it for next time.

Btw I'm not from english speaking country so please apologize my english skills.

Here is the way I was dyeing it :

This is how it was looking before dyeing -

I know it's not perfect but it was my first try.

I've colored some lines :

When I was done, I have applied fiebing's finish on that. Wait about 2 hours then applied Eco flo antiq gel.

For applying antiq i used piece of cotton shirt and did in circular motions. It was my understanding that after buffing color with paper tissue color will stay in impressions and make the impression look darker.

Well it didn't work as I presumed, some of impressions are darker but some not. Here is result :

Can you please tell me some advice how to avoid such a things ?

Thank you.

[Jaymack]

I can't see your pictures.

First thought is what was the fiebings's finish/resist did you use. Also, try to let the resist dry 24 hours before you apply the antique.

[nargil]

Hello Jaymack,

thank you for advice, next time i will wait at least 24 after applying finish. I've also uploaded again those images, hope you will see it now.

[TwinOaks]

It looks like you got a pretty even coat of the antique gel and it penetrated EVERYTHING. That can be caused by a number of issues, but generally speaking, if you use one type/brand of product, stay with that all the way through. Don't mix Fiebings and Eco-whatever.

Specifically regarding the eco-antique: I've used it and found that once it starts drying, it's THERE. Apply it per the instructions (over a GOOD layer of resist) but don't use a dry cloth to try and remove it - use a damp one. A damp sponge works very well, you just have to keep a light touch to keep from squeezing any moisture out of it. Work in circular motions, and rinse the sponge often. That should help you pick up most of the unwanted antique. Once that's done, THEN buff with a dry cloth, let the antique fully dry, and re-seal it...preferably with a sprayed on WATER BASED finish like -sheen, or resolene. If you use any finish that has a stronger solvent, it can pull the antique up and it'll start smearing around.

Now, with that being said, IF you have the opportunity to try Fiebing's Antique paste...do so. You'll be amazed at the difference in how easy it is to apply and remove the excess. Plus, you can use regular solvent based finishes

[NVLeatherWorx]

Another thing that will help, especially if you continue to use the water based stuff (Eco-Flo) is to apply the antique with a piece of sheep wool. This will allow you to get the antique into the impressions better and it will not create as much friction as is you did using the old cotton shirt. Using the shirt was almost the same as using sandpaper and it will scratch off any resist or finish that you apply as a top sealer over colored elements.

One key thing to remember is this: anytime that you add a dye, stain, finish, color, etc. you need to let it set for at least 24 hours to ensure full drying and oxidation before you apply the next treatment or step. That goes with all products that are used for this purpose.

I do like the work though, looks very good for your first try. I can tell you that in my study of the works of others over the years I have seen some "skilled" or "experienced" crafters fall short of where you are right now. Not meant to offend anyone but I am sure that most of us could say the same thing.

[nargil]

@TwinOaks : Thank you, next time will not mix those products. You're right maybe cloth wasn't good decision, i will try damp sponge as you wrote and as well the whole procedure.

One problem is that here in Slovakia (Middle Europe) are not any shops specialized in leather working, so it's pretty hard to buy professional dyes, finishes etc. I'm ordering it from Germany or Britain but shipping cost me more then actual products :/ But leather working gets being my passion so I will save some money to get right products

@NVLeatherWorx : Thank you I would like to use sheep wool, I saw it in some videos and working with it looks great, but i'm not sure where to get it. Here in Slovakia probably just from some farmers. As I wrote probably using dry cloth was a big mistake. I regret that I didn't come here for advice from you experts, before dyeing it. Your advice really help me, also next time I will be more patient and let it dry at least for 24 hours. This were my first amrguards, before that I also tried to create belt but I ended with same critical problem - dyeing.

Thank you both, again I'm glad that here are people willing to help newbies as me.

[TwinOaks]

Nargil, you might also look at some 'household products' to use in place of the "leather" products. Acrylic floor wax under the name "Mop-n-glo" can be used as a finish...it just needs an extra day or two to get rid of the smell.

[Grey Drakkon]

I know you came here to find out why things didn't work the way you wanted them to, but I can tell you that anyone looking for bracers would be all over the ones you made, whether they're what you envisioned or not! Great job!

[nargil]

TwinOaks, thank you. I will surely look for replacement like you wrote.

Grey Drakkon, thank you. It's good to hear that my work isn't totally wrong

[nargil]

Hello all,

I've tried to repair those armguards using your advices. Damp sponge, same brand/based products and more patience So i hope you like it. Thank you for your help.

Edited December 2, 2014 by nargil

[Eccho]

nargil, You can be proud............they are beautiful...........well done !

[NVLeatherWorx]

The color and impressions really pop out at you now, great work! You are now ready for the next level young Grasshopper.

[nargil]

Thank you all