Full Length Holster Filler

[ejcrist]

I'm a new forum member and just getting back into leatherworking after about 10 years or so. I'm interested in making holsters because I don't like being limited to the generic holsters on the market. Some of them are pretty good but I have a lot invested in single action revolvers and want to give them the best care and protection I can. As a result, I'm in the process of designing a holster for a Ruger Single Six with a 6 1/2" barrel, and tentatively decided to go with something similar to what's in the Al Stohlman Holsters book on page 32 but without the tooling since I'm not that far along yet. I've always been paranoid of the blueing wearing off revolvers when using tight fitting commercial holsters so I thought about making a holster with a liner, but then after thinking about it more I decided to go with a full length filler, possibly with an end plug. Assuming I go this route, per the Al Stohlman book on page 12, the filler width should be 1/2", whereas on page 2 it says to cut your template 3/4" from the edges of the revolver. I believe you only extend the pattern 1/2" from the ends when using a filler since there won't be as much tension on the ends correct? Or, should you still cut the pattern 3/4" from the ends? I'm pretty sure it's just 1/2" when using a single filler since the width of the holster should decrease as the filler width increases (to a point). Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Gene

[TwinOaks]

I haven't read Al's books, so I can't comment on the directions listed there. When I line holsters, I match the liner to the shell for glue-up, full size. Just before stitching, I'll go in and skive the edge of the liner so that the edges line up well. If the pattern is utilizing a welt, I don't bother with the skiving. The shortening of the liner may be to allow for shortening as the holster folds.

[JLSleather]

You might get away with 1/2" if your filler is the same thickness as the revolver.

[ejcrist]

Thanks for the info Twin Oaks and JS. I went ahead and cut the pattern with a 3/4" border and I'll cut the filler 1/2" per the book. I'll see how everything fits and I can always trim it back if it's too loose I'm figuring. Better to start with it too long than too short.

Gene

[Red Cent]

"...making a holster with a liner, but then after thinking about it more I decided to go with a full length filler." Serious question. What is a filler? Welt?

"You might get away with 1/2" if your filler is the same thickness as the revolver."

All of a sudden I am totally confused.

[snubbyfan]

A filler is kinda like a welt for a holster.

I generally don't use fillers, I did on this holster because I thought it'd look good.

The customer wanted a pretty rig for wearing to barbecues. I thought a burnished filler'd add mass, look good and make the holster stiffer.

I just eyeball my fillers and welts, so I couldn't tell ya how wide it was but I think it came out kinda nice.

These two are for field use and neither have a filler.

They fit a 6" S&W L frame and a 5" Springfield 1911, I was able to get a proper fit without a filler and with a little wet molding.

[Red Cent]

Stopped using welts. PITA. Easier to cut leather to fit and wet mold.

Your holsters look very well done.

[ejcrist]

A filler is kinda like a welt for a holster.

I generally don't use fillers, I did on this holster because I thought it'd look good.

The customer wanted a pretty rig for wearing to barbecues. I thought a burnished filler'd add mass, look good and make the holster stiffer.

I just eyeball my fillers and welts, so I couldn't tell ya how wide it was but I think it came out kinda nice.

These two are for field use and neither have a filler.

They fit a 6" S&W L frame and a 5" Springfield 1911, I was able to get a proper fit without a filler and with a little wet molding.

Gosh, your filler holster looks exceptionally good - outstanding job! That's what I hope to be able to do someday.

Gene

[TwinOaks]

Oh....you meant a Welt. I thought you were asking about a liner. Carry on.

[Lobo]

I think what the OP is referring to as a "filler" is what I call a "welt". In my opinion, the primary purpose served by the welt is adding strength and rigidity to the seam of the holster. A secondary benefit is allowing a bit more space within the holster along the seam(s), which permits moving the stitch-lines closer to the handgun profile for improved fitting.

The welt will serve only a very limited purpose in reducing holster wear to the handgun finish. Holster wear is caused by abrasion. Unlined holsters with the flesh-side of the leather inside can produce more abrasion than a holster with lining of either smooth or soft leather, which reduces abrasion for better protection of the handgun finish.

In my experience, holster wear results from two things. First is drawing and holstering the handgun. Second is movement of the handgun within the holster during normal activities. So there are two approaches to reducing holster wear. First is a good close fit of the holster to the handgun, reducing or eliminating movement of the handgun within the holster. Second is a holster lining that reduces abrasion, both during normal movement and when the handgun is drawn and inserted.

Holster linings are usually done with either smooth or suede leather. Both will do the job, and both are in demand by people having strong preferences for one over the other. My personal preference has always been for a smooth leather holster lining because smooth leather does not tend to collect dust, grit, and debris over time like the open nap of suede leather will do (and some of that grit can be damaging to the handgun finish, embedded in the suede and abrading the finish again and again).

The soft leathers typically used in holster linings are invariably chrome-tanned (or other chemical tanning processes). This carries with it the issues of residual chemical salts remaining in the leather. These chemical salts can be very corrosive, capable of etching even stainless steels, and can certainly result in rusting of carbon steels (thus pretty much all handguns). Leather holsters and other leather products have a natural tendency to absorb and retain moisture (from the atmosphere, from precipitation, or from the user's perspiration). That moisture causes the residual chemical salts to go into solution, thus subjecting the handgun finish to a constant corrosive bath.

If using soft leathers for holster linings I recommend removing that the handgun never be stored in the holster, removing the handgun from the holster after each day's use, and wiping it down with an oily rag or silicone-treated cloth. Holsters should be stored separately in an area having air flow to allow residual moisture to evaporate away between uses (otherwise mold and mildew can become a problem).

Another approach to holster making provides the benefits of a holster lining while eliminating the issues of chemical salts. The holster body can be constructed of two layers of veg-tanned leather (no chemical salts) cemented flesh-side to flesh-side, and stitched at the edges. The holster will have a smooth interior and exterior. Depending on the application I use 5/6 oz. laminated to 4/5 oz., or 6/7 oz. laminated to 5/6 oz. Resulting holsters are exceedingly strong and rigid, form beautifully, and retain forming better than any single-layer holster of any weight.

This approach is not cheap (double the leather per holster) and takes considerably more time (cutting two pieces, cementing, stitching, edging, etc), but the results are very satisfying. I am attaching several photos of holsters made in this manner including a western style with welted seam and others with welts contoured to the handgun.

[Red Cent]

I use 8-9 ounce for the outer and 5-6 ounce for the liner. Piece of cake with the C4. No welt.

Edited December 1, 2014 by Red Cent

[JLSleather]

Red --

Did you modify the center foot of that machine? Wondering how you turn corners without that stupid dimple showing on the edge (from the contoured foot).

[snubbyfan]

Hmm, Y'all got me thinkin' and that can get dangerous. I've got some chrome tanned but I don't even like to store it on the same side of the room as my veg tan and I'd never want to use it as a lining leather for the reason pointed out by Lobo.

However, I also have a double shoulder of 3 to 4 ounce milled veg tan. I usually use it for making soft sided pouches that sell well at area fairs and festivals. I'm thinkin' of maybe using that as a liner, hmm.

[TwinOaks]

Lobo's post reminded me of something that needs to be mentioned for the sake of our new holster builders.
What IS retention??? Retention is simply the holster's ability to keep the pistol or revolver in the same place, despite all influences except the user's draw. So, how do you do it? There are two methods, but they interact with each other and both use the same force: friction.

The first is having a closely molded holster both limits movement and increases the surface area of the leather in contact with the gun. Limiting the movement reduces wear on the gun AND the holster, so it lasts longer and performs the way it's supposed to. The additional friction from a closely molded holster prevents the gun from working it's way out of the holster when the wearer is moving. It should be noted that while molding the leather, it IS possible to get it TOO close. One of our members was molding a holster to a pistol with a light rail, and when assembled he couldn't draw the gun from the holster. The leather and the cutouts on the light rail acted like a zipper.

There is also the method which uses ONLY friction, not closely molded lines. There's an excellent example of that here in the forums in a cowboy holster tutorial by Jim. His method uses just the friction of the holster squeezing back against the barrel, cyliner, and frame. The result is a holster that holds tightly but releases with a quick tug.

Either way, the keys are how well the hoslter holds onto the gun, and how well it releases the gun when the user draws. Do a lot of experiments with your holster designs, and test, test, test. This is one area where "oops" isn't allowed.

[mlapaglia]

One of our members was molding a holster to a pistol with a light rail, and when assembled he couldn't draw the gun from the holster. The leather and the cutouts on the light rail acted like a zipper.

That was me. I keep that holster around to remind me that I need to pay attention to molding and that life like molding can be counter productive. But I learned a great lesson so it wasnt a total loss.

Michael

[malabar]

Hmm, Y'all got me thinkin' and that can get dangerous. I've got some chrome tanned but I don't even like to store it on the same side of the room as my veg tan and I'd never want to use it as a lining leather for the reason pointed out by Lobo.

However, I also have a double shoulder of 3 to 4 ounce milled veg tan. I usually use it for making soft sided pouches that sell well at area fairs and festivals. I'm thinkin' of maybe using that as a liner, hmm.

Like this....

[malabar]

I use 8-9 ounce for the outer and 5-6 ounce for the liner. Piece of cake with the C4. No welt.

Red,

VERY nice!

tk

[Red Cent]

Thanks Malabar.

Did you modify the center foot of that machine? Wondering how you turn corners without that stupid dimple showing on the edge (from the contoured foot).

Never touched the center foot. Ever so often I will get the indentations (dimples?). What do you modify to do away with the dimple?

[malabar]

Something to consider: The most likely place for holster-related wear on revolvers is along the barrel near the muzzle. That's because that's the area that rubs the most along the side of the holster. A welt helps decrease the pressure on the side of the barrel. So if you really want to minimize the risk of wear, line the holster AND use a welt.

tk

[snubbyfan]

Like this....

Looks good. Actually, I was thinking of using the soft stuff as a liner but that does give the holster a nice texture.

[Lobo]

Twin Oaks: Excellent post. Very clearly stated and darned good advice.

Edited December 2, 2014 by Lobo

[TwinOaks]

Thank you!

[malabar]

Looks good. Actually, I was thinking of using the soft stuff as a liner but that does give the holster a nice texture.

The problem with using the soft stuff as a liner is that it can be corrosive to the gun, as lobo noted above. I sell rigs like that mostly to women who want to match it to a purse.

tk