Members Red Cent Posted December 1, 2014 Members Report Posted December 1, 2014 (edited) I use 8-9 ounce for the outer and 5-6 ounce for the liner. Piece of cake with the C4. No welt. Edited December 1, 2014 by Red Cent Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted December 1, 2014 Contributing Member Report Posted December 1, 2014 Red -- Did you modify the center foot of that machine? Wondering how you turn corners without that stupid dimple showing on the edge (from the contoured foot). Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members snubbyfan Posted December 1, 2014 Members Report Posted December 1, 2014 Hmm, Y'all got me thinkin' and that can get dangerous. I've got some chrome tanned but I don't even like to store it on the same side of the room as my veg tan and I'd never want to use it as a lining leather for the reason pointed out by Lobo. However, I also have a double shoulder of 3 to 4 ounce milled veg tan. I usually use it for making soft sided pouches that sell well at area fairs and festivals. I'm thinkin' of maybe using that as a liner, hmm. Quote Keep on Chooglin'Check out my YouTube Channel, comment and subscribe for updateshttps://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOM3hbruUKHov9kquIxXKlA
Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted December 1, 2014 Contributing Member Report Posted December 1, 2014 Lobo's post reminded me of something that needs to be mentioned for the sake of our new holster builders. What IS retention??? Retention is simply the holster's ability to keep the pistol or revolver in the same place, despite all influences except the user's draw. So, how do you do it? There are two methods, but they interact with each other and both use the same force: friction. The first is having a closely molded holster both limits movement and increases the surface area of the leather in contact with the gun. Limiting the movement reduces wear on the gun AND the holster, so it lasts longer and performs the way it's supposed to. The additional friction from a closely molded holster prevents the gun from working it's way out of the holster when the wearer is moving. It should be noted that while molding the leather, it IS possible to get it TOO close. One of our members was molding a holster to a pistol with a light rail, and when assembled he couldn't draw the gun from the holster. The leather and the cutouts on the light rail acted like a zipper. There is also the method which uses ONLY friction, not closely molded lines. There's an excellent example of that here in the forums in a cowboy holster tutorial by Jim. His method uses just the friction of the holster squeezing back against the barrel, cyliner, and frame. The result is a holster that holds tightly but releases with a quick tug. Either way, the keys are how well the hoslter holds onto the gun, and how well it releases the gun when the user draws. Do a lot of experiments with your holster designs, and test, test, test. This is one area where "oops" isn't allowed. Quote Mike DeLoach Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem) "Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade." "Teach what you know......Learn what you don't." LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.
mlapaglia Posted December 1, 2014 Report Posted December 1, 2014 One of our members was molding a holster to a pistol with a light rail, and when assembled he couldn't draw the gun from the holster. The leather and the cutouts on the light rail acted like a zipper. That was me. I keep that holster around to remind me that I need to pay attention to molding and that life like molding can be counter productive. But I learned a great lesson so it wasnt a total loss. Michael Quote The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering. Bruce Lee
Members malabar Posted December 2, 2014 Members Report Posted December 2, 2014 Hmm, Y'all got me thinkin' and that can get dangerous. I've got some chrome tanned but I don't even like to store it on the same side of the room as my veg tan and I'd never want to use it as a lining leather for the reason pointed out by Lobo. However, I also have a double shoulder of 3 to 4 ounce milled veg tan. I usually use it for making soft sided pouches that sell well at area fairs and festivals. I'm thinkin' of maybe using that as a liner, hmm. Like this.... Quote
Members malabar Posted December 2, 2014 Members Report Posted December 2, 2014 I use 8-9 ounce for the outer and 5-6 ounce for the liner. Piece of cake with the C4. No welt. Red, VERY nice! tk Quote
Members Red Cent Posted December 2, 2014 Members Report Posted December 2, 2014 Thanks Malabar. Did you modify the center foot of that machine? Wondering how you turn corners without that stupid dimple showing on the edge (from the contoured foot). Never touched the center foot. Ever so often I will get the indentations (dimples?). What do you modify to do away with the dimple? Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Members malabar Posted December 2, 2014 Members Report Posted December 2, 2014 Something to consider: The most likely place for holster-related wear on revolvers is along the barrel near the muzzle. That's because that's the area that rubs the most along the side of the holster. A welt helps decrease the pressure on the side of the barrel. So if you really want to minimize the risk of wear, line the holster AND use a welt. tk Quote
Members snubbyfan Posted December 2, 2014 Members Report Posted December 2, 2014 Like this.... Looks good. Actually, I was thinking of using the soft stuff as a liner but that does give the holster a nice texture. Quote Keep on Chooglin'Check out my YouTube Channel, comment and subscribe for updateshttps://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOM3hbruUKHov9kquIxXKlA
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