Knife Sheath, Find The Mistake/s

[handsw]

I have just made this sheath for my dad's knife but I have done some mistake in the project, find it/them.

What do you think of the edges?

[Peter Darby]

I noticed a couple of things about the construction. 1. I usually build the gusset up near the hilt so the top of the sheath is close to the same width as the guard to keep it from pushing it into the back of the sheath. 2. This might just be the way I prefer but I usually have the snap or button; a) attached to a piece of leather sewn onto the sheath to prevent the back of the fastener from rubbing on the blade. and put the fastener close enough to the hilt to allow you to unsnap and draw the knife with one motion. 3. It looks like the way you folded over the belt loop that the bottom edge might catch on the knife guard as it is drawn. 4. This is just one of my pet things; But even on a basic sheath I will seldom make the knife hang straight. A bit of an angle I find is more comfortable for sitting than straight up and down.

[cgleathercraft]

I think wrong might be a matter of opinion.

Only two things I would change. Flip the belt loop to fold towards the back. Doesn't affect the use or purpose. Just might snag like Peter said. As for the keeper strap I would only make the slot on the "upwards side" (can't think of a better way to say it) of the stud so it will be solid against the stem of the stud. Making it a little snug. that way there is less chance of bumping it and popping the strap off and losing the knife. I've been there and lost a couple good quality knives. Doesn't make for a good day lol.

[camano ridge]

I agree with all the things peter said. It also looks like you cut a slot on both sides of the hole for thestud. The slot should be cut on only one side and it should be the side oposite of where andy tension will be if the strap is pulled against the stud when keeping the knife in place. In this case it should have been cut only on the handle side of the stud. I also think rounding or shaping the end of the retention strap would give a more esteticaly pleasing look. When I fold the belt loop over the front like you did, I have it long enough to come down to meet the the piece I would have between the knife blade and the back of the sheath (to build up the thickness like Peter said. I would also skive down the end of the belt loop so it would lay pretty close to flush. That way you would not have any opportunity for any thing to hang up on the bottom edge of the belt loop. In your case the hilst looks pretty smooth so probably won't be a problem. However a different style knife with a more pronounced ledge on the hilt could be a problem.

Looks like CG posted while I was typing. Pretty much the same thing.

Edited December 3, 2014 by camano ridge

[handsw]

For the stud I have searched on internet some model but I have seen that often it is placed with an angle of 45° respect to the guard. However the knife will not be used on the ground, it is only for exposition

2. This might just be the way I prefer but I usually have the snap or button; a) attached to a piece of leather sewn onto the sheath to prevent the back of the fastener from rubbing on the blade.

I have added a piece of leather to cover the back of the fastener so the blade will not take any scratch.

Only two things I would change. Flip the belt loop to fold towards the back. Doesn't affect the use or purpose.

But won't be, in this way, the grain side outside?

The slot should be cut on only one side and it should be the side opposite of where any tension will be if the strap is pulled against the stud when keeping the knife in place.

Fantastic, thank you.

Looks like CG posted while I was typing. Pretty much the same thing.

When I fold the belt loop over the front like you did, I have it long enough to come down to meet the the piece I would have between the knife blade and the back of the sheath (to build up the thickness like Peter said. I would also skive down the end of the belt loop so it would lay pretty close to flush. That way you would not have any opportunity for any thing to hang up on the bottom edge of the belt loop.

You are right but that choice was due to the main problem of the sheath: the thickness. The space that allow the blade to slide inside the sheet is only 3mm so made a belt loop long enough to arrive at the level of the guard was impossible. I have calculated the thickness of the sheath without considering the guard.

[cgleathercraft]

But won't be, in this way, the grain side outside?

Yep, There are several ways to get around that like liners, or flipping the back piece so the grain side is out instead of against the blade. It will be against your body so nobody will see the back until the sheath is taken off.

My first few sheaths were single piece construction which forced the grain side out on the loop. With a little burnishing they smooth up and look great!

[snubbyfan]

What the other guys said plus the edges are wavy, making the spacing of the stitchline uneven. The stamping on the back's ugly and unnecessary. Something should be done with the hold down strap, just having a straight cut on the end's unsightly and unfinished looking.

[handsw]

What the other guys said plus the edges are wavy, making the spacing of the stitchline uneven. The stamping on the back's ugly and unnecessary.

I really don't know what to do with the edges because every time I sand them with the dremel but when it's the turn to bevel, they appear to be wavy. That's because the sanding process remove the leather beneath the flesh side but leave unaltered the smooth and finished layer of the flesh side that is about 1/10 mm thick.

For the back, why the stamping is unnecessary? Do you usually leave it blank?

[Peter Darby]

If you want to stamp or carve the back, go for it. When Al Shelton was making belts and hatbands for his high end customers (Roy Rogers and Gene Autry to name a couple) he would put a design on the inside of the band or belt. His theory was that for a custom made piece going the extra mile was a good thing.

I can't really tell if the back is not stamped well or if the picture is just not very good. Making a good sheath is a bit more complicated than just making a well made sheath. It sounds like from your comments that you are making progress. When I make a sheath I consider not only the knife but how it is to be used and where. For example a small sheath knife that sits in a tool box would look much different than the same knife to be worn on the belt of a canoe paddler which would be different from a farmer or hunter. And decidedly different for someone who is wearing it primarily for self defense.

A quick example of what a well designed sheath can do for you. I was canoe camping with my wife and dog when while executing a sharp maneuver the wife fell out of the back. As I floated off down river trying to keep the canoe upright with 150 pounds of camping gear and a 100 pound dog in it while steering from the bow and trying to keep the dog from jumping in I noticed that my wife was tangled in our fishing line. If I couldn't unsnap and get my sheath knife out of the sheath with one hand to cut the line and return it to the sheath the same way I would have been pulling a barbed fishing line out of her arm or upside down in the river. Ideally a working knife should come into your hand smoothly enough that onlookers wonder how it got there

[snubbyfan]

As Peter pointed out you can stamp and carve anywhere you feel like. Just make sure both sides and equally pretty. I personally don't stamp the backside but that's my personal choice.

Leatherwork lends itself well to personal expression.

I agree with cgleathercraft, flip that belt loop over and finish the flesh side. I'd extend it further down the back of the sheath. Just make sure to recess the stitches so the knife doesn't snag and possible cuts them. That's how I've done these holsters and knife sheath.

Front side.

Or as camano ridge said, flip it forward and skive it in.

Having a woodworking background, I have a drill press in which I've chucked a large sanding drum. That enables me to use both hands and guide the piece. As I've done with these sheaths made for a Cherokee friend.

Many of my sheaths are made for people who have a nice knife and they want a nice sheath to go with it.

This one's a user for a left handed individual. The stud for the hold down strap's closer to the hilt to make it easier to use with one hand.

[handsw]

Thanks for the pics, however this was my first sheath of this kind so let's back to work and I will post my new sheaths soon, so we can check if there is some improvement.

[snubbyfan]

That's what it's all about, trying to improve with each new project. Lookin' forward to seein' the next one.

[Eddie1968]

I made this knife and sheath for a customer. I am not saying this is the best way. It is just the way I did this one. I skived down the flap and tucked it in below the handle of the knife. Granted this knife doesn't have a guard but the idea I think is the same. oh and this is hand stitched by the way.

Eddie

Edited December 5, 2014 by Eddie1968

[handsw]

That's another good idea, closer to my way of conceiving a sheath