Members Peterk Posted November 9, 2008 Members Report Posted November 9, 2008 Hello all, Just started holster making as a hobby and have seen on brigadegunleather.com that they dunk holster parts into a bucket of oil, and brush a moisture inhibitor mixture to the flesh side of the leather prior to assembly... Does anyone know what type of oil they may be using? And what that moisture inhibitor mix, that prevents moisture from seeping through, may be? I know this may be trade secret, but it looks to be some great processes to help me progress in my hobby so I would like to try it. Any suggestions on substitutions of these items would be great as well! Thanks in advance. Peter Quote
rickybobby Posted November 9, 2008 Report Posted November 9, 2008 I am not sure what they are brushing on the inside, the dunking is most likely "Neats Foot Oil" or "Neats Foot Oil Compound" Rick J. Quote Rick
Members Peterk Posted November 9, 2008 Author Members Report Posted November 9, 2008 I've heard neats foot oil being used quite a bit in saddle-making so I figure that may be it since Brigade calls theirs a saddle oil. Thanks much Rick! Now to figure out what that white substance may be... Quote
Lobo Posted November 9, 2008 Report Posted November 9, 2008 The oil is almost without a doubt neatsfoot oil compound. Personally, I don't dunk my holsters, but each gets a liberal application done with a loaded paint brush. The leather absorbs it quickly and neatsfoot provides excellent long-term protection. Excessive application of neatsfoot oil will leave any leather limp and useless, so until you get a feel for working with the stuff remember that multiple light applications are better than one heavy application. After oiling (and 24 hours for the oil to settle into the leather) try Fiebing's Bag Kote, an old saddle-maker's favorite. Sprayed or swabbed over the exterior, it provides an excellent surface seal and cures quickly to a very nice egg-shell luster. Apply it inside to seal the grain side and it will also make the interior surfaces lie flat and smooth for a very nice finished appearance. For a higher luster on the exterior, try Fiebing's Leather Sheen, also can be sprayed or swabbed. Tip: Always use the Bag Kote and the Leather Sheen at room temperature. If it is too cold it can blotch and streak with no corrective processes known to me. Lobo (Lobo Gun Leather, making serious equipment for serious business). Hello all,Just started holster making as a hobby and have seen on brigadegunleather.com that they dunk holster parts into a bucket of oil, and brush a moisture inhibitor mixture to the flesh side of the leather prior to assembly... Does anyone know what type of oil they may be using? And what that moisture inhibitor mix, that prevents moisture from seeping through, may be? I know this may be trade secret, but it looks to be some great processes to help me progress in my hobby so I would like to try it. Any suggestions on substitutions of these items would be great as well! Thanks in advance. Peter Quote Lobo Gun Leather serious equipment for serious business, since 1972 www.lobogunleather.com
Members twofour878 Posted November 10, 2008 Members Report Posted November 10, 2008 I've heard neats foot oil being used quite a bit in saddle-making so I figure that may be it since Brigade calls theirs a saddle oil. Thanks much Rick! Now to figure out what that white substance may be... White substance? Could it be a sheen? I know my super-sheen is white. I'm a noob so don't quote me on it. Quote
Members Peterk Posted November 10, 2008 Author Members Report Posted November 10, 2008 Thanks Lobo for your help! I really appreciate it. I will get some supplies going and try them out on my next project. Brigade calls this white inhibitor their "mixture"... Who knows... Quote
esantoro Posted December 21, 2008 Report Posted December 21, 2008 I'm bumping this thread to the top, as it might help gather some useful information. Ed Quote http://www.waldenbags.com http://www.waldenbags.etsy.com
Members Peterk Posted December 21, 2008 Author Members Report Posted December 21, 2008 (edited) the thread right underneath, called "Great Photos" is discussing that mysterious mixture also. Edited December 21, 2008 by Peterk Quote
esantoro Posted December 21, 2008 Report Posted December 21, 2008 (edited) There are a few products Weaver offers that I've been wanting to try, but I'm not sure of their uses or if they duplicate other products available or work better than other products. All of these are from Weaver's catalog: 1. Weaver Leather Kote (clear): Flat acrylic top coat finish, excellent adhesion and flexibility. My educated guess is that this is another of LCI's products (originally, maybe a Dyo product), perhaps a duplicate of something like Fiebing's Bag Kote. It sounds like a possibility for sealing the flesh side 2. Fiebing's Harness Dressing (clear): another flat finish 3. Weaver Tuff Kote (clear and black): Satiny finish used for top and edge finish. Doesn't rub off or wash off. I think this is another LCI product, perhaps it was originally a Dyo product. 4. Top Coat #200: Seals veg tan and chromed tan leather for effective waterproofing, simply spray on. I believe this is another Dyo/LCI product. Here's a link to information on similar products from DYO. If the products are still in existence, they are now manufactured and distributed LCI http://www.dyo.com/leather_catalog.html#leather_sealers I'm calling Weaver LEather on Monday and asking what they have to seal the flesh side of leather. Ed Edited December 21, 2008 by esantoro Quote http://www.waldenbags.com http://www.waldenbags.etsy.com
Members Leerwerker Posted December 21, 2008 Members Report Posted December 21, 2008 Just be very careful with oil and leather - you can apply it quite liberal with a paint brush, but NEVER dunk it. Ask the saddle makers - someone walks into their shop with a 'rescued' saddle that they dunked in oil, they just get shown the door again... Too much oil will deteriorate the strength of the leather - the fibers have nothing to hold onto ... Also, you can use any oil from animal or plant origin, but NEVER a mineral oil (I know neatsfoot compound has some mineral oils in, but my advice comes from the Leather Chemists of America). I hope this helps! Quote JOhan ------------------------------------------- ****Afrikaans: Leerwerker ***** ****Zulu: lesikhumba isisebenzi Latvian: ādas darba ņēmējs *****Russian: кожа работника ****English: Leatherworker ****Dutch: Lederbewerker ****Flemish: Leerbewerker ****Hebrew: עור פועל ****German: Leder Handwerker ****Hungarian: Bőrdíszműves ****Turkish: deri işçisi ****French: Artisan du Cuir ****Spanish: Artesano de Cuero ****Norwegian: Skinn kunstners ****Swedish: Läderhantverkare ****Greek: δερμάτινα εργαζόμενος Sotho: mosebeletsi oa letlalo
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.