Removing Rust

[paris3200]

I've got a CS Osborne scratch compass that is rusty. I would like to get it cleaned up and back in usable condition. Any tips on how to do that?

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

We used 0000 steel wool on blued firearms. Sandpaper, sand/bead blaster, Naval Jelly, buffing wheel. Take your pick.

[zuludog]

I inherited my Dad's tools, many of which had been left in a shed and ended up in a similar state. I cleaned them up with pieces of emery and wet & dry paper or cloth, some of them quite small. Grades used were medium going down through the grades to very fine. I see from my stock I used 220, 320, 400, 600; but they are what I happened to have, it doesn't need to be exact.

It takes time, but it's satisfying when it's done

Dismantle the items as far as you are able or feel confident

Work on a pad of several layers of newspaper and remove the top sheet as necessary

Wear old clothes as the mixture of fine abrasive dust & rust will get all over the place

Finish by wiping down with a rag, followed by a very thin smear of oil

[Troy Burch]

Go to an auto parts store and get some rust remover, soak 12 hours (depends on how rusty) and the rust will be gone. Bruce Johnson told me about this, Evaporust or Metal rescue is a soak that will remove the rust and leave the good metal. Then put some light oil on it.

Edited December 26, 2014 by Troy Burch

[Oldtoolsniper]

Go to an auto parts store and get some rust remover, soak 12 hours (depends on how rusty) and the rust will be gone. Bruce Johnson told me about this, Evaporust or Metal rescue is a soak that will remove the rust and leave the good metal. Then put some light oil on it.

This is good advise. Do not use a wire wheel, they are fine for removing welding slag and ruining tools.

Edited December 26, 2014 by Oldtoolsniper

[Oldtoolsniper]

Most of those are the same tools, either way these were all rusty when I got them. These are only through step three.

1. I degrease them. Don't skip doing this, evaporust is water based and won't penetrate oil or grease.

2. Soak in evaporust in a covered container, it evaporates!

3. Polish them out on a cloth buffing wheel with the black compund from Caswell plating or wherever. That's just what I use.

4. As time permits they get final clean up with a foredom tool and hard felt buffing bits.

5. Sharpen them.

6. Use a good wax on them to prevent rust. I use car wax, try to avoid any silicone it will repel dyes and such.

I clean up a lot of old tools and in my opinion and this is only my opinion, to many people go the wire wheel route and it looks worse to me than the rust. Sandpaper and steel wool have there place too, but going the least aggressive route is usually your best option. Remember what you're trying to accomplish as well. In some cases you just have to live with the pits that the rust has caused. If it does not effect how the tool operates I don't try to polish them out. Most of these tools are old and they deserve to have a rust wrinkle or two.

This takes time but it works. Doing it this way you won't be removing the metal very fast and to buff out a stamped name or number on a steel tool would take a lot and I mean a lot of buffing. Practice on an old pair of pliers or something rusty before you go after that priceless heirloom.

I posted the pictures so you can see that it works, at least for me.

The easiest way is to prevent the rust in the first place, after you polish it off of a few tools you too will develop good rust prevention habits.

[ClaireAshton]

I think the method in the video is worth a go to keep all of the good metal that a wheel or brush would remove for ever.......

How to Remove Rust With A Battery Charger:

Best Wishes

Claire

[Constabulary]

I usually use oxalic acid but the electric thing is worth a try

[Oldtoolsniper]

I've used the electric method it tends to turn the surface a black color and takes additional steps with scotch brite pads to remove. I use it on handsaws because of the size of them evaporust is cost prohibitive. This time of year I buy the stand up wrapping paper storage tubs because they are narrow and tall enough for most saws.

It's very easy to scrub a large flat surface like a saw with a scotch brite pad, not so sure on a punch or something with a cutting edge.

Oxalic acid. Never tried that on anything but leather. Off to google!

[bruce johnson]

Just another of the Metal Rescue and Evaporust tips. They will get into areas you cannot by any mechanical means. You will notice on the label that it says works better over 65 degrees. True enough, and the warmer the faster the chelation reaction. I talked to one of the celebrity endorsers of one of these products. His tip under condition of anonymity. You can heat these and turn 12 hours into less than 12 minutes. I do this for small parts like bolts and hardware. Put them in an aluminum pan, heat to "hot enough to stick a finger in but too hot to leave it there". Simmer for as long as it takes, a couple rinses of water, and you're good. You will lose some solution to evaporation but there is the time saving element. Strain the solution through a paper towel back into the container and you're ready for next time.

[bruce johnson]

Regarding the black surface. One of the restoration sites they mention this - and it may be in the fine print on the chelating solution directions too. This is carbon from the original steel that rusted. A fine abrasive or compound on a soft wheel will take that off.

[Constabulary]

I´m just trying the electrolysis thing for the 1st time. I have a tub full of water / soda solution (about 40 liters water + 250gramms soda) and I`m soaking a complete housing Singer 29K1 cobbler machine in it. I have checked it a couple of times and it really works well. Its seems to remove the old paint too. The old ornamentation decals are gone already and the old paint is starting to crinkle. Not sure if this is the result of the electrolysis or the permanent contact with the water / soda solution.

[paris3200]

Thanks everyone for the information. I have done electrolysis in the past for some woodworking tools. However I really didn't want to drag all of that out just for the compass.

I just placed the scratch compass in Evaporust. I will try and remember to post pictures when it comes out.

[paris3200]

The Evaporust worked great.

[msdeluca]

Great tips... thanks!

[Chef niloc]

I've used the electric method it tends to turn the surface a black color and takes additional steps with scotch brite pads to remove. I use it on handsaws because of the size of them evaporust is cost prohibitive. This time of year I buy the stand up wrapping paper storage tubs because they are narrow and tall enough for most saws.

It's very easy to scrub a large flat surface like a saw with a scotch brite pad, not so sure on a punch or something with a cutting edge.

Oxalic acid. Never tried that on anything but leather. Off to google!

Pvc pipe caped off works great for "controlled dipping/submerging" I use pvc pipe when etching knife blades.

[Geneva]

Molasses will remove rust too. If you don't mind sticky.