ejcrist Report post Posted December 30, 2014 I'm in the process of making my second lined holster. When I made the first holster I was in a bit of hurry to put the liner and cowhide together for fear the contact cement would dry before I assembled the two pieces. That didn't happen but some of the areas around the edges could have had a better application of cement and I ended up having to re-do a few corners. Now I'm on my second lined holster and I want to do a better job. I'm using Tanners Bond Craftsman Contact Cement, the small 8 oz can with the small brush attached to the lid. I'm debating getting the Cement Keeper Alco Teflon Pot which I believe has a larger brush so I can apply the contact cement quicker. My question: how long after you apply the contact cement to the cowhide and liner do you have to put the two pieces together before the cement dries? If you have a good 10 + minutes I'll stick with the can of cement I have (no pun intended) and take my time to get a good application. Otherwise I'll get a bigger pot and bigger brush to expedite the process. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Gene Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BDAZ Report post Posted December 30, 2014 Depends on what cement you are using... Cya! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ejcrist Report post Posted December 30, 2014 Its Tanners Bond Craftsman Contact Cement sold at Tandy Leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted December 30, 2014 Contact cement directions clearly state that the cement is supposed to dry BEFORE you put the pieces together. Putting it together while it is still wet, . . . may result in it not curing for several days if not weeks, . . . and will never bond together like it should. Course, I could be wrong, . . . only been using this stuff for about 50 years. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ejcrist Report post Posted December 30, 2014 Thanks Dwight. It was dry after I applied it on the last holster but I think I didn't coat some spots good enough. I just don't want to wait until it's too dry. I guess that's the $64,000 question - how long before it's too long? I guess I'm splitting hairs but I'm thinking by the time I coat both surfaces and wait 10 minutes or so should be ok. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BDAZ Report post Posted December 30, 2014 Some contacts recommend bonding while both surfaces are still tacky while others, as Dwight mentions recommend dry. I did a repair yesterday with Weldwood which said dry to a glazed finish Not less than 15 minutes and not more than an hour. I use an automotive spray adhesive for gluing linings and they recommend tacky on both surfaces, Cya! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ejcrist Report post Posted December 30, 2014 Bob - I don't have the jar in front of me but if I remember correctly it said to apply both surfaces together when tacky. I'm not sure how long they'll stay tacky but I'll find out tonight when I give it another go. Worse case scenario is they'll dry before I'm ready to put the pieces together and I'll just have to re-apply a little quicker. Or I'll try your technique of using a spray on adhesive. Which brand are you using? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BDAZ Report post Posted December 30, 2014 I use the headliner spray glue available from most automotive stores. It's expensive but easy to use and I have had no glue failures to date. Cya! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BDAZ Report post Posted December 30, 2014 BTW I only use headliner for gluing sued lining and Barge for all other gluing except for a few special jobs using water based cements. 73 W2PN Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldtoolsniper Report post Posted January 6, 2015 I tend to rough up any smooth surface that I'm bonding, some leathers the cement will roll off the surface or not stick very well if I don't do this. I also try it out on scraps of the same leather before I commit. I use weld bond (flammable red can) contact adhesive. I let it dry to tacky so no reside sticks to your knuckle but the surface is still tacky. Like a post it note. Glued together a magnetic money clip this morning with the magnets poles wrong, they broke apart when I tried to pry them out of the leather, I had to use pliers to pull the two pieces of leather apart. If done properly this particular cement works very well. Experiment on your scrap, I know it takes a little time but redoing an entire project usually takes more time and is more expensive. Not all adhesives work on all types of leather. Same as wood working there are choices that work and that don't. Test on scrap and make notes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Cent Report post Posted January 6, 2015 Go to Lowes and get a can of Dap Weldwood contact adhesive. Get the gel formula. Buy a bucket of really cheap small paint brushes. Get a heat gun. After you apply a coat of gel, worry the adhesive to make sure it covers the piece and no blobs or lines of glue. Use the heat gun to dull the look of the gel. If it starts to bubble move on. Count to 5 and put the pieces together. Better have them together correctly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites