Cutting a straight line

[tashabear]

That's called a quilter's rule. these are great. My wife has about every size imaginable. Sounds like you knife may not be as sharp as it should be. When it's not extremely sharp, the knife can actually pull the leather and it will cut unevenly.

Marlon

You can get them in shapes too: http://quiltsuppliesonline.com/index.asp?P...&Category=6

I use quilter's template plastic for shapes I want to use again: http://www.ezquilt.com/products/plastics/singlesheets.htm

[Hedy]

For thick leather I also try and clamp the hide to the cutting table.

What sorts of clamps do you use? How do you avoid the clamps making impressions in the leather?

Thanks,

Hedy

[strapt]

For larger cuts I use a metal 60" rule from the lumber yard. The kind of thing drywall guys use. I tried clamping the rule to my bench top with the leather under it but couldn't get enough bite in the middle stretch of the rule to keep it flat on the leather. So now I cut large items on the floor and hold my rule down with some scrap 1x8 and a couple (rarely used) 10lb dumbbells.

For smaller cuts, like for a notebook cover. I use a corkbacked metal rule about 18" long. Left over from my days as an artist, this thing is invaluable. If you don't have a corkbacked rule, get one. They're cheap and quite useful.

As for quilting scales, I would caution anyone who cuts against a plastic straight edge. Typically (for me anyway) it only takes one or two uses and the straight edge is no longer straight b/c I've trimmed tiny bits of it off with my oh so sharp utility knife. I ruined a few drafting triangles that way as a graphic design student many moons ago.

[pabloz]

Another item to consider is what kind of material you are cutting on top of. If it's wood such as plywood, solid oak, pine, alder, etc. that has a grain - then the grain itself will pull the blade in an undesireable direction that is impossible to control. I make all of my straight cuts on a long piece of formica counter top and make multiple shallow cuts until I cut through. If it is a relatively short cut, less than 36" I usually do that on 1/4" plate glass on top of my poundo covered work bench. This is what works for me... give it a try.

PabloZ

[TomSwede]

Another item to consider is what kind of material you are cutting on top of. If it's wood such as plywood, solid oak, pine, alder, etc. that has a grain - then the grain itself will pull the blade in an undesireable direction that is impossible to control. I make all of my straight cuts on a long piece of formica counter top and make multiple shallow cuts until I cut through. If it is a relatively short cut, less than 36" I usually do that on 1/4" plate glass on top of my poundo covered work bench. This is what works for me... give it a try.

PabloZ

I use a wooden underlay when I cut. I put the leather so that the cut goes diagonally over the wood grain. When i use my plastic underlay the knife tends to sink in to the plastic wich causes drag that (for me) maeks the cut a bit more "nervous".

I'm sure there are better plastic underlays than the one I use but just something to consider about the woodgrain underlay.

Tom

[moosedog]

Hello, All,

I am new here, and thought I would just jump right in. Hope that is OK.

I'm from Oregon and have recently returned to my childhood love of leathercraft.

My sister the quilter turned me onto those clear rulers--being able to see through the transparent rule helps me keep everything aligned and alerts me to any straying that I might introduce...They are designed to work with a rotary cutter--As mentioned above, using a regular knife can chew up the edge quickly. But the sharp edge of a rotary cutter's wheel is never in contact with the ruler's edge.

Rotary cutters work great with lighter leathers, just make sure to hold the blade flush against and perpendicular to the ruler. Last year my mom sent me an extremely heavy-duty rotary cutter with a side handle-- from Italy I think--that I have found cuts easily on up to 9-10 ounce leather!

Thanks for the wealth of information on the board!

Moosedog

[tashabear]

Hello, All,

I am new here, and thought I would just jump right in. Hope that is OK.

I'm from Oregon and have recently returned to my childhood love of leathercraft.

My sister the quilter turned me onto those clear rulers--being able to see through the transparent rule helps me keep everything aligned and alerts me to any straying that I might introduce...They are designed to work with a rotary cutter--As mentioned above, using a regular knife can chew up the edge quickly. But the sharp edge of a rotary cutter's wheel is never in contact with the ruler's edge.

Rotary cutters work great with lighter leathers, just make sure to hold the blade flush against and perpendicular to the ruler. Last year my mom sent me an extremely heavy-duty rotary cutter with a side handle-- from Italy I think--that I have found cuts easily on up to 9-10 ounce leather!

Thanks for the wealth of information on the board!

Moosedog

I run those over my fingers. They scare me...

[Leerwerker]

I NEVER cut against a straight edge - inviting trouble, that is ...

I use a scratch awl to mark the cut lines against a straight edge - the focus of the action is downward and only ever so slightly against the steel - very fewer mistakes. And if the steel slips (which will not happen often if you coat the underside with contact adhesive) there is not a whole piece of wasted leather because of the off-the-line cut.

After the lines are marked, I cut them freehand and a slower speed is the answer to accuracy! For all but the thickest leather, I like a small craft knife with break off blades (always sharp and you can hold it like a pen for added accuracy). Now you do not have to focus on BOTH keeping the steel ruler down and making the cut - voila! fewer slip=ups!

Hope this helps!

[badger]

I mark against a straight steel edge with a pencil and then cut feehand. I find it easier and you can tell when it's going wrong. You can't always tell when cutting against a steel edge. Freehand you can see the line more easily and it's easier to keep your digits out of harm's way.

I use those big self-healing cutting mats underneath. They don't pick up knife 'ruts' from prior cuts which can steer your blade astray. As with some others here; I cut slowly, very slowly, with a very sharp knife.

I like the Stanley 'SK' knife you used to be able to get here in England. It's kind of half way between a craft/utility knife and a scalpel. I use regular factory blades, but honed on a fine diamond stone and rouge-polished on the mop. I stop and resharpen/polish whenever I feel the edge is going. Resharpen early and often.

Hope this helps.

Karl

[hidepounder]

I'm surprised to see that no one is using a head knife! I dampen the leather, make a strong mark with a stylus, and then cut freehand with a headknife. I've found that I can cut within a pencil mark. I used to use a straight edge and utility knife, but inevitably, something would slip resulting in disaster. The width of a head knife is such that there is so much blade in the cut, that cutting straight is almost easier than a cutting a curve! It goes without saying that your knife must be very sharp! Using a head knife seemed awkward at first, but I assumed there was a reason why all the pro's used them. Now I know!

If I need two pieces to match identically...I cut the first piece, then use it as a template to cut the second piece. This is usually adequate. But if not, I wait for them to dry, then I use blue 3M tape to hold them together and I sand the edges to a "finish" line on a stationary belt sander. This is what I do, hope it helpful to you.....

Bob