What Machine To Sew Wallet Interiors

[Chief31794]

I have a 441 clone, but I need a machine to sew wallet interiors together, T type pockets, so the most layers is 3 right along the bottom on each side. Hopefully something that is available regularly and maintainable (parts), model numbers don't mean much to me, so I'm asking for a model that will sew 5-6 oz max, walking foot (prefer triple feed, but not hung up on it), dependable. I maintain my machines and understand the workings of a lock stitch sewing machine, just not sure what model will suit my needs, most documentation on the web is skimpy and not necessarily trust worthy. Please provide a price range that you think would be reasonable to pay for the models you suggest, just ball park so I'll know if I'm getting my money's worth.

Thanks,

Chief

Edited December 31, 2014 by Chief31794

[TwinOaks]

If it's JUST wallet interiors, you could get by with a Singer 111 (or variant/clone). You should be able to find those from $200 for just the head, maybe $400-500 on a table.

If there's a chance that you'll eventually do more with the machine, plan for something like a Consew 205/6, Juki 1541/lu562/lu563, Adler 67...and the price ranges anywhere from $500-$2000. Those machines have more clearance, and can handle larger threads.

You might even look at going with a cylinder arm medium duty machine, and add a flatbed.

[Wizcrafts]

I use whatever upholstery grade machine I have on hand, with #69 thread and a #16 or 18 max leather point needle. Currently, I have a Singer 139 long body, flat bed walking foot machine in the shop. It is functionally similar to a Singer 111w155, except it has been retrofitted with a large LU size Juki hook. It doesn't have reverse.

TBT, I could even sew 6 oz of wallet interiors on my Singer 31-15, with #69 thread. I'd crank down the foot pressure some more and maybe change over to a roller equipped or Teflon foot. If you plan on doing any repairs to cloth garments, a bottom feed straight stitch machine is a must. Mine is equipped with a servo motor.

[Chief31794]

If it's JUST wallet interiors, you could get by with a Singer 111 (or variant/clone). You should be able to find those from $200 for just the head, maybe $400-500 on a table.

If there's a chance that you'll eventually do more with the machine, plan for something like a Consew 205/6, Juki 1541/lu562/lu563, Adler 67...and the price ranges anywhere from $500-$2000. Those machines have more clearance, and can handle larger threads.

You might even look at going with a cylinder arm medium duty machine, and add a flatbed.

Thanks Twinoaks, I appreciate your chiming in.

I use whatever upholstery grade machine I have on hand, with #69 thread and a #16 or 18 max leather point needle. Currently, I have a Singer 139 long body, flat bed walking foot machine in the shop. It is functionally similar to a Singer 111w155, except it has been retrofitted with a large LU size Juki hook. It doesn't have reverse.

TBT, I could even sew 6 oz of wallet interiors on my Singer 31-15, with #69 thread. I'd crank down the foot pressure some more and maybe change over to a roller equipped or Teflon foot. If you plan on doing any repairs to cloth garments, a bottom feed straight stitch machine is a must. Mine is equipped with a servo motor.

Thanks Wizcrafts, now I guess I just have to find a 111, or a 31-15, I don't plan to sew anything but pigskin lining into wallet interiors, this gives me some idea of how I need to go.

Thanks,

Chief

[ramrod]

i've got a spare singer 591. i've used it to sew zippers into chaps before. but the feed tells me it should be used only for light stuff. i don't use it at all now that i have my 211g155. wiz - you could chime in on the uses for a 591, i'm sure.

[Wizcrafts]

Here's the insider skinny on straight stitch machines and whether they can or can't sew leather. The basics are outlined below.

1. Can the machine accept a leather point needle in sizes 18/110 or larger?
2. Does the throat plate have a large enough hole to clear a #18 or larger needle?
3. Does the hook have enough clearance to allow #69 or larger bonded thread to pass freely around the bobbin case/basket?
4. Are the tension springs on top and in the bobbin case/basket strong enough to properly tension #69 bonded nylon or polyester thread?
5. Are the teeth on the feed dog large enough to grip the leather and pull it under the presser foot? If not, is there a heavy duty feed dog that fits your model?
6. Is the coil spring over the presser foot bar strong enough to hold down the leather as the needle ascends and forms the lockstitch?
7. Is the machine capable of sewing spacings of 6 stitches per inch or longer?
8. Does the motor on the machine allow you to sew slowly on demand? Most leather work is sewn at speeds between 1 to 5 stitches per second. It may be difficult to hold your foot just so on a clutch motor to feather it for 1 stitch per second (I can do it). Clutch motors can be retrofitted with pulleys 2" diameter or less to slow them down.
9. If your machine has a servo motor, does it have enough torque to penetrate your leather at the slowest speed you want to sew at? Many servos do not possess this punching power when dialed down.
10. Can you replace the standard presser foot with either a full roller foot conversion kit, or at least a flat foot with long rollers protruding out the bottom?
11. If no to the above, can you at least fit it with a Teflon foot?

In my case, I applied #5 and #10 to my ancient Singer 31-15 to get it to sew vests, wallet interiors and similar thin leather items. I also obtained a stronger top tension beehive shaped spring for the top tension disks and a stronger presser foot spring. The stock springs were inadequate for my leather sewing purposes. My machine readily takes #18 needles and #69 bonded nylon thread. I bought a 3 piece roller foot conversion kit, which includes a single row feed dog with aggressive teeth and matching throat plate, with a hole large enough for a #20 needle. I also bought a standard 3 row heavy duty feed dog with aggressive teeth that can be used with any flat foot.

You can read a previous discussion on LWN about the Singer 591 and what I learned when I tried one out.

Edited January 1, 2015 by Wizcrafts

[Chief31794]

Here's the insider skinny on straight stitch machines and whether they can or can't sew leather. The basics are outlined below.

1. Can the machine accept a leather point needle in sizes 18/110 or larger?
2. Does the throat plate have a large enough hole to clear a #18 or larger needle?
3. Does the hook have enough clearance to allow #69 or larger bonded thread to pass freely around the bobbin case/basket?
4. Are the tension springs on top and in the bobbin case/basket strong enough to properly tension #69 bonded nylon or polyester thread?
5. Are the teeth on the feed dog large enough to grip the leather and pull it under the presser foot? If not, is there a heavy duty feed dog that fits your model?
6. Is the coil spring over the presser foot bar strong enough to hold down the leather as the needle ascends and forms the lockstitch?
7. Is the machine capable of sewing spacings of 6 stitches per inch or longer?
8. Does the motor on the machine allow you to sew slowly on demand? Most leather work is sewn at speeds between 1 to 5 stitches per second. It may be difficult to hold your foot just so on a clutch motor to feather it for 1 stitch per second (I can do it). Clutch motors can be retrofitted with pulleys 2" diameter or less to slow them down.
9. If your machine has a servo motor, does it have enough torque to penetrate your leather at the slowest speed you want to sew at? Many servos do not possess this punching power when dialed down.
10. Can you replace the standard presser foot with either a full roller foot conversion kit, or at least a flat foot with long rollers protruding out the bottom?
11. If no to the above, can you at least fit it with a Teflon foot?

In my case, I applied #5 and #10 to my ancient Singer 31-15 to get it to sew vests, wallet interiors and similar thin leather items. I also obtained a stronger top tension beehive shaped spring for the top tension disks and a stronger presser foot spring. The stock springs were inadequate for my leather sewing purposes. My machine readily takes #18 needles and #69 bonded nylon thread. I bought a 3 piece roller foot conversion kit, which includes a single row feed dog with aggressive teeth and matching throat plate, with a hole large enough for a #20 needle. I also bought a standard 3 row heavy duty feed dog with aggressive teeth that can be used with any flat foot.

You can read a previous discussion on LWN about the Singer 591 and what I learned when I tried one out.

Wizcraft,

Detailed and helpful answers to questions like you've done here is what makes this site exceptional. I was pretty sure I'd get the info I needed from you, I was looking at some machines, and have picked up a Consew 206 that will be here next wee. I thought that was about what I wanted but your and the other poster's comments gave me confidence that I wasn't going to get the wrong thing. I couldn't be more grateful.

Thanks and have a wonderful New Year,

Chief

[Colt W Knight]

I have a Consew 206. It will handle wallets like a champ, and even heavier veg tan leather ( 3/8")