Easy Way To Make Patterns

[taintedelephant]

It appears that I think better in leather than in paper, so for small projects, I just pick up my tools and start cutting. When something I like comes out I scan it and then open it in Photoshop, and trace it out on a separate layer, discard the background and save it as a pdf. You could also do this with a photo copier and a marker. Does anybody else do something like this?

watch pattern web.pdf

[NVLeatherWorx]

I just grab pencil, paper and rulers, draw out my idea/concept, make a paper mock-up of the item to ensure it all goes together the way it is supposed to, refine any areas that need to be fixed, and once it all goes as planned/intended I make a hard template for each component and my parts list and go to town. Been working that way for me for decades so I see no need to change it.

[taintedelephant]

There is more than one way to skin a cat, or at least that is what my friend at the Chinese restaurant says. Paper is a lot cheaper than leather, so it is probably the best way to go. I'm new at this and and inexperienced, over time I'm sure I'll figure out how to compensate for material thickness and whatnot and do more pre-planning on paper.

[NVLeatherWorx]

The nice thing about doing with paper is that you can see where the changes, if any, need to be made and then can just draw out the new version and test it again. And the best part is, as you hit it, that it is MUCH cheaper than working with leather as your test bed. Regarding the material thickness issue, just add that amount to any drawn dimension when creating an item with a fold. It is kind of the same when making a wallet pocket for a credit card.

The standard credit/debit card is 3-3/8" x 1-1/8" so when making a pocket for it to fit into requires you to figure out your card size, add some space for card access (I call it wiggle room), factor in your stitching location. and then where the edges of the pocket are. In this example I have the card width of 3-3/8", I add 1/4" on each side for my "wiggle room", then line out my stitching line at that location where my "wiggle room" line is (dashed lines), then add 1/8" to each side for where my edge of the pocket will be (that is the cut line). I now have a width for a pocket piece of 4-1/8". The depth is a little different but basically I cut every pocket the same at a total of 2", this allows the card top to be accessible by at least 3/8" for ease of grasp, and also gives enough depth to the pocket for the card to sit properly. This size of a pocket will allow at a minimum two cards per pocket to fit inside when compared to other pocket designs that are sized right to the bare minimum of space.

It takes patience and trial and error but that is how we all learn the most important skills anyway.

[taintedelephant]

Thanks, that's helpful. I made a front pants wallet a couple of weeks ago that I did mock up in paper first, allowing for what I thought was enough wiggle room. Cards fit but would require the jaws of life to remove. So I just cut one out of leather with a tad more wiggle room and it turned out just right. unfortunately I didn't scan that one, but I know how much to add to the original pattern.

[LoneWolf1973]

I just get an idea...look for something similar...then use that to base a design off of...then get to work with pen and paper. I know this sounds like alot of work but I am the kind that enjoys the planning almost as much as the work.

[genuss]

On 06.01.2015 at 07:41, taintedelephant said:

Похоже, что в коже я думаю лучше, чем в бумаге, поэтому для небольших проектов я просто беру инструменты и начинаю резать. Когда выходит что-то, что мне нравится, я сканирую его, а затем открываю в Photoshop и прослеживаю в отдельном слое, удаляю фон и сохраняю в формате PDF. Вы также можете сделать это с помощью фотокопировального устройства и маркера. Кто-нибудь еще делает что-то подобное?

шаблон просмотра web.pdf

Гарне рішення.

[Redhairing]

I make paper patterns first and then make a prototype in felt yardage. Felt doesn't exactly imitate leather but is helpful if I am making something with turned seams or draping that paper doesn't approximate well. It can be a drag to have a second prototype when you're anxious to get into the leather but can help prevent costly mistakes.