kriskringle73 Report post Posted January 23, 2015 (edited) So I've done this pattern a few times to build my basic skill set, and I wanted to see what people who are a bit more experienced than I think of my work. All critism is welcome. Edited January 23, 2015 by kriskringle73 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted January 23, 2015 The tooling is off.....did you let the leather completely case before stamping? The impressions are very light which could be caused by the leather being too wet. Also, the tooling around the stems looks like it was done with a checkered pear shader, and that is the wrong tool for those places. The cut lines should be chased with a beveler first, then the background can be matted down. The lines themselves are something that I've had trouble with ....they should taper out at the end of each cut instead of being full depth. That's something that can only be learned through time and practice, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kriskringle73 Report post Posted January 23, 2015 I probably didn't let the leather case properly, the guide that Tandy included with the kit wasn't very clear on the subject. Any advice on how long I should let it sit? As for the tooling, I followed the guide in the order it presented them, but it's possible I missed those areas. Thanks for the advice. It's nice to have someone with experience look at my work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted January 23, 2015 If you are just doing the wet sponge on the face of the leather once you get the leather wet you wait until the color has prety much returned to normal put the leather feels cool against the face. On the other hand if you want to do a real thorough job casing the leather read this thread it has a lot of excellent information. I am doing a large project like a belt or holster stc. I wet my leather put it in a zip loc freezer bag put it in the refrigerator over night take it outof the bag and lay it out wait until it starts to return to normal color then begin tooling. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rohn Report post Posted January 23, 2015 I use "Pro Carve" from Be Natural Leathercare. I buy mine at Springfield Leather. I mix it according to directions on the bottle and pour it into a spray bottle. I spray my leather until it is covered well and then let it set until it starts to turn back to original color. I find this works really good for me. Rohn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BubbaJon Report post Posted January 23, 2015 The lines themselves are something that I've had trouble with ....they should taper out at the end of each cut instead of being full depth. That's something that can only be learned through time and practice, I liked the explanation that was given to me by an old timer - for decorative cuts think like you're "dipping" the blade into the leather. Made sense to me anyway I agree the leather doesn't look like it was cased properly. The good news is you're practicing - the best plan there is. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kriskringle73 Report post Posted January 23, 2015 I liked the explanation that was given to me by an old timer - for decorative cuts think like you're "dipping" the blade into the leather. Made sense to me anyway I agree the leather doesn't look like it was cased properly. The good news is you're practicing - the best plan there is. Ah, I see. I can actually see how that'd fix the problem. Thanks for the pointer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kriskringle73 Report post Posted January 23, 2015 Also, Camano, the casing thread/article was very informative. I'll probably spend the weekend experimenting. Thanks again Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
