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GGGRRRR!! Houston, we have a problem!

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Why does my Fiebing USMC Black not like Eco-Flo Satin Sheen???? I have used it on three problems now and each time I put the Satin Sheen on, the black starts to lift off the leather instantly!!!

I have been using the same black with Eco-Flo Super Sheen with no probs, it just happens with the Satin Sheen.

The first time it was on a project my son was working on and I only saw the end result, not as he was working.

My Tandy guys said maybe he had way too much Sheen on the leather or he didnt let it dry long enough and it leeched the black out while the sheen was drying. So I tried it on two more projects myself and both did the same thing.

The first wasnt so bad, just a few small tan spots along the edges so I touched it up and moved on. However, tonight I was dyeing some straps and as soon as the Sheen touched the black, the black leeched off in large areas....

I set it all aside until I can figure out what the hell is going on.

Any ideas??

William

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Welcome to the wonderful world of "dying leather black"! It has to be the most frustrating thing I have ever tried to do. I apply a thin coat of Neatsfoot oil to dry leather to open the pores, apply 3-4 coats of dye, let it dry troroughly and buff off the residue with a paper towel or cloth, apply a good coat of saddle soap and let that dry. Then try to apply your finish with a very light hand. Usually, I try to use the same brand dye and finish.

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Why does my Fiebing USMC Black not like Eco-Flo Satin Sheen???? I have used it on three problems now and each time I put the Satin Sheen on, the black starts to lift off the leather instantly!!!

I have been using the same black with Eco-Flo Super Sheen with no probs, it just happens with the Satin Sheen.

The first time it was on a project my son was working on and I only saw the end result, not as he was working.

My Tandy guys said maybe he had way too much Sheen on the leather or he didnt let it dry long enough and it leeched the black out while the sheen was drying. So I tried it on two more projects myself and both did the same thing.

The first wasnt so bad, just a few small tan spots along the edges so I touched it up and moved on. However, tonight I was dyeing some straps and as soon as the Sheen touched the black, the black leeched off in large areas....

I set it all aside until I can figure out what the hell is going on.

Any ideas??

William

How long are you letting the black dry? Also, I find that with the Eco-Flow, I have to layer the black over Evening Blue to get the deep, rich color I'm after.

That, or say the hell with it and use spirit dyes while I can. ;-)

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My latest project that had this happen was dyed in the morning and then buffed/sheen'd that evening...well over 8 hours of drying time.

I have a batch of vinegaroon brewing up.... I think I will just stick to it when I need somehting black. LOL

Thanks for the help folks... any other thoughts are greatly welcome!

William

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I just asked a similar question to Peter Main and here's his answer:

Just get some Fiebings 'oil dye'...put on the gloves...pour some onto sheepsfleece....apply it as evenly as possible (no need to completely saturate the leather)...add also to the back. Allow to dry over night....buff with fleece...add a finish and all is done.

Tiz best to slick edges and back after dying...a little oil will help slick the grain on the flesh side...use a glass slicker for this.

Peter

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Thanks Marlon!

I bought some fiebing's spray sheen yesterday while at Tandy. I used it on the problem project listed above and it came out looking fine.

I will have to looke into the 'oil dye' idea too. I am not that good at getting even colors with dyes or stains, do the oils come out more consistant?

William

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Thanks Marlon!

I bought some fiebing's spray sheen yesterday while at Tandy. I used it on the problem project listed above and it came out looking fine.

I will have to looke into the 'oil dye' idea too. I am not that good at getting even colors with dyes or stains, do the oils come out more consistant?

William

How are you applying them? I had this problem too, because I was using daubers. Then I started using sheepskin scraps, and it's like night and day.

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How are you applying them? I had this problem too, because I was using daubers. Then I started using sheepskin scraps, and it's like night and day.

Daubers..... :head_hurts_kr:

hhhmmmm, another new idea to try!!!

Thanks folks!!!!!!

William

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Thanks Marlon!

I bought some fiebing's spray sheen yesterday while at Tandy. I used it on the problem project listed above and it came out looking fine.

I will have to looke into the 'oil dye' idea too. I am not that good at getting even colors with dyes or stains, do the oils come out more consistant?

William

Oil dyes penetrate more deeply and yes I believe more evenly. However, you should try them as suggested with the sheepswool scraps in a circular motion. This will give a slight burnishing effect as you're applying and effectively start to seal the fibers.

Marlon

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Oil dyes penetrate more deeply and yes I believe more evenly.

Marlon

Good cuz I am horrible at dying.... I can never get them even...unless it's black of course!!! LOL

William

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Hi,

USMC dye is not a very good dye... it's not a true black. I only use Fiebings Black Oil dye.. I made the mistake at one time buying USMC, the bottle is still sitting in a dark corner.

Ladybug/JoAnn

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Hi,

USMC dye is not a very good dye... it's not a true black. I only use Fiebings Black Oil dye.. I made the mistake at one time buying USMC, the bottle is still sitting in a dark corner.

Ladybug/JoAnn

This is true, USMC black has a blue-ish sheen to it when it dries, but I wouldn't say it's not a very good dye. I think it has it's place in leather dying. I use it all the time.

Marlon

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I love the USMC black when it dries. I have used it on everything from a black leather belt to belt pouches to my son's grieves and bracers...

I never had a problem with it until I used the Eco-flow satin sheen with it.

William

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In tight areas, what does one use? I have thought about using a Q-tip and on my latest attempt at leather working :P I tried to do the main part with a lint free cloth wrapped around my fingers and finished with a brush around the parts that were colored. End result was kinda spotty with some darker areas around the colored parts. (cell phone case with the carved parts green and red. used highlighters for those parts)

Edited by Dragons Pearl

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A glass slick? Is this a straight edge or am I not seeing what he is talking about in my head? Glass in a handle right?

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A glass slick? Is this a straight edge or am I not seeing what he is talking about in my head? Glass in a handle right?

Here's a couple of pictures of my glass slicker.

DSCN0497.JPG

post-3307-1226891101_thumb.jpg

Edited by Rawhide

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second view

DSCN0498.JPG

post-3307-1226891304_thumb.jpg

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If you can afford the gear to spray on your dyes and finishes (sprayers, airbrushes, compressors, etc.), that pretty much eliminates about 90% of the problem of finishes disturbing dye or antique jobs.

Kate

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In tight areas, what does one use? I have thought about using a Q-tip and on my latest attempt at leather working :P I tried to do the main part with a lint free cloth wrapped around my fingers and finished with a brush around the parts that were colored. End result was kinda spotty with some darker areas around the colored parts. (cell phone case with the carved parts green and red. used highlighters for those parts)

A fine paintbrush.

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Thank you for posting pictures of your slick. That cleared up what I was thinking. I was wondering how to use that on an edge. Then I reread. Thanks again.

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