Recommendations For A First Sewing Machine

[JennMetesh]

Do you guys have any recommendations for finding a first sewing machine for leather that's affordable? Can you find deals on ebay for used ones? Would brands/types would you recommend. Is there a sewing machine that's adjustable to sew through leather and heavy fabrics like canvas and nylon? Any pointers would be appreciated.

[Wizcrafts]

Do you guys have any recommendations for finding a first sewing machine for leather that's affordable? Can you find deals on ebay for used ones? Would brands/types would you recommend. Is there a sewing machine that's adjustable to sew through leather and heavy fabrics like canvas and nylon? Any pointers would be appreciated.

Here's a pointer: if you want a real leather sewing machine that can sew hard or thick leather with thick thread, not just an upholstery machine that can sew soft-medium temper leather, stay away from eBay or Craigslist. Every now and then a real leather sewing machine does come up for sale on those sites. But, more often than not, the machines they call leather sewing machines are either upholstery machines, sail repair machines, or glorified domestic machines with bloated claims made about their ability to sew leather.

As for sewing leather, please define what kind of leather (hardness/softness), the total thickness you want to sew together (inches, ounces, millimeters) and the size/strength of thread you want to use (#69, #80 (jeans thread), #92, #138, #207, #346, #415?). Then we can help you pick a machine that meets those targets.

On the top of every page on Leatherworker.net you will see up to 6 ad banners, most of which are from industrial sewing machine dealers who support this forum and sell or specialize in real leather sewing machines.

Affordable means many things to different people. To me it means anything under $3000. Others may have more money in the bank and a $6,000 machine is not out of their budget. Some can only afford $1000 or less and mostly have to buy old used or off brand upholstery grade machines.

Edited February 6, 2015 by Wizcrafts

[JennMetesh]

I am looking for a machine that I can sew horse tack and chaps with as well as repair horse blankets and sew Ultrasuede chaps. I'm fairly new to leather work so I don't know the size/strength of the thread that I would need. My budget would be $1000 or less.

[Wizcrafts]

I am looking for a machine that I can sew horse tack and chaps with as well as repair horse blankets and sew Ultrasuede chaps. I'm fairly new to leather work so I don't know the size/strength of the thread that I would need. My budget would be $1000 or less.

Look for an "upholstery" class walking foot machine (triple feed), with a large hook. Typical brands are Consew, Chandler, Singer (discontinued), Juki, Seiko and others. Less expensive machines are made in China. Better quality machines are Japanese and a few were made in the USA (old Singers).

You can buy a brand new Chandler 406RB walking foot machine for about $1000. It, along with the others in this class, can use up to #138 bonded thread, which has 22 pounds breaking strength. That is good enough for horse blankets and chaps.

[JennMetesh]

Thanks for your input! I really appreciate it. Would that strength sewing machine be able to sew horse tack like breast collars and halters or would those be better to hand stitch those for the time being?

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks for your input! I really appreciate it. Would that strength sewing machine be able to sew horse tack like breast collars and halters or would those be better to hand stitch those for the time being?

Upholstery class machines are limited to sewing no higher than about 3/8 of an inch (10mm). You will need one that is equipped with a 3:1 speed reducer to multiply the punching power and slow it down. I recommend a Family Sew FS-550 servo motor, which is what I use now.

You will probably need to use #23 or 24 leather point needles to pierce horse tack. The pressure spring may need to be replaced with one that has stronger coils. This is to hold down the thick and hard leather as the needle ascends.

A better machine for breast collars, halters and bridles would be a Cowboy CB3200. It sews an honest 1/2 inch, with very thick thread (#346) and already has a servo and speed reducer. This machine is a step up from the upholstery class and is related to the big 441 types, but with less material thickness capacity. A lot of people are buying them rather than the larger machines, like the Cowboy CB4500 that I use. But, I sometimes sew 7/8" thick holsters. The machine is about 60% more than you wanted to spend, but may well be worth looking into.

If all this is cornfusing, know that when I began sewing leather it took me two years of buying wrong machines before I found a real leather sewing machine that could sew thick holsters, bridles, reins and the like. Also, good leather sewing machines back then cost at least twice as much as they do now.

[catskin]

I make horse tack and have for years. While a new machine of this size is over your stated budget anything less then 7/8 thick sewing ability I would not consider adequate if you make the stuff to light it might look nice but could kill you or somebody else when it breaks. especially if you make the foolish mistake of sewing across at the buckles ,rings and any other stress points. I just got home from a horse sale that had a lot of new tack sold and it was almost all done like that. ( mostly imported stuff that U.S companies put their brand on ) That is why I started making harness and tack, so few know that sewing across near these points is akin to the perforations between sheets on a toilet paper roll that are put there to make it tear it that point.

Every needle hole is a cut ,add them together and you have cut most of the strength out of your leather. Sew only length wise along the piece.

I my opinion safety beats fancy EVERY TIME.

The above applies to LEATHER with leather point needles webbing and the other woven type stuff that is made to look like leather is a different matter using round point needles they slip between the strands not cut them so that is why sewing across on them is okay.

Edited February 7, 2015 by catskin

[stickandtin]

Jennmetesh-

Back in Nov/Dec I was in a similar situation as you. The folks on this site were extremely helpful in guiding me to the right type of machine for what we were getting started in. Our adventure is getting started in upholstery work. Thanks to the great advice given on this site we ultimately bought a new Juki 1541S from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Co. Our experience dealing with Toledo Industrial was wonderful. This machine is a perfect match for us. If you have never used an industial machine, I can tell you I compare the quality and performance of this Juki to the difference between driving a Ford Pinto and a Ferrari. As others have mentioned, there are poorly made Chinese machines out there disguised as "good deals". When you are on a budget, it can be alluring but don't get taken in. You will regret it. It's more important to buy a quality machine(new or used) and establish a relationship with someone who knows how to repair the machine you bought. Another bit of advice I picked up here is buy a machine that has the capability to do a little more than what you are expecting. Don't be afraid to ask questions, everyone here was a newbie at one time.

Good Luck.

[catskin]

In addition to my above post. The mistake many beginners including myself at the time they tend to forget that the thickness usually doubles where you turn the end back at buckles rings etc. so 3/8 becomes 3/4 . and if your machine has 5/8 maximum it might seem at first thought that it is plenty but then when you get to the buckle you can't get it done right because you can't go up that slope.