Original Singer 45K Users Manual

[jimi]

Hi Tor, so does the feed dog under the jump foot mark vegi tan also?? and do you used any type of attachments like binding,welting with the adler. regards jimi.

[Trox]

Hi Jimi, yes it does, the jump foot goes up and follows the material back-wards; before it jumps back to its starting position (like the movement of a upper feeding foot). Its not driven as the upper feeding foot, but spring loaded. The advantage is that you can sew with less foot pressure, then again less marks. The class 5-5 (who is an other subclass) has bottom and upper (such upper feeding foot). Same as the newer Adler 105-25 (as I`m selling one of now).

Thats again an improvement over the jump-foot system, you are able to feed better. To address the problem with leather and bottom feed, Adler then made a needle feed subclass; 105-64 (and 104-64 flatbed version). It had bottom and needle feed, it preformed best on leather with a roller foot. The needle does most of the feeding job in a modern triple feed leather machine anyway (set up with smooth feed dog and feeding foot). So the -64 subclass performed well on flat leather, but was a poor climber. The later Adler 205 came also first in this subclass (-64), before they built on a triple feed system on it: "205-74". Who later became the DA 205-370 we know today. So the class 5 is its grand father. The Singer 45 K was also available with these same types of feed and uses the same shuttle as the class 5.

Tor

[jimi]

That is what i imagined Tor, that it would also leave marks. i suppose the only way is to pay big money for a triple feed or use more chrome tanned leather or on some applications cut off the excess. the best combination i have found until know is the right foot toe for this:

this way i only loose 5mm of material which is not a big waste considering the results. and looking at how the binder attachment works on these machines i think maybe a single row of teeth down the left side with the binder foot would maybe evade the teeth marks? (only with good side up and bad side under) i cant think of any other option for the 45?? maybe we could convince people that teeth marks on leather are cool and vintage hahaha. regards jimi

Edited March 7, 2015 by jimi

[jimi]

[Pip]

Thanks guys I use a 45k a bit got a good deal on one so snapped it up, struggling with a few bits so as its my first machine, these should come in handy.

Pip

[Trox]

Hi Jimi, thats a very nice needle plate, all those teeth marks are on the other side of the stitches. Saddler's used these bottom feeds for more than half a century. You could try a roulette roller-foot (from Cowboy Bob http://www.tolindsewmach.com/ or http://www.kwokhing.com/ ). Some of these roller foot`s comes with Teflon /rubber rings that does not leave mark on the top. A roller foot will ease up on the foot pressure.

The technique minimize marks on wegtan is to let off most of most of the foot pressure (and perhaps rounding of those feed dog teeth a bit with a ceramic stone, or use a thin Teflon tape on top of them) and helping the feed by hand.

You got to press the material down when the needle is down making the thread loop, and help the feed; when the feed-dog comes up (from the needle plate) to feed. You got to very slow in the beginning before you master this technique.

Then as soon as your finished stitching, you must wet the teeth marks with sponge (with water of course) and hammer out the mark with a smooth faced (polished head) leather hammer. You got to be quick before the teeth marks fixate. You have to hammer the seam anyway to close the stitches, now you doing both in one process. You can use some force, but not as much as you widen out/crushes the leather.

Very important:

Remember the material must lay still (not move) when the needle is forming the loop; or else it will skip stitches and perhaps brake the needle too. Be very careful and go slow.

You can remove some of the edge of the feed-dog teeth, but removing to much and it will not feed good. Perhaps you using in on fabrics too, then they has to be sharp. There was somebody in the forum that melted a layer of some protecting film over his feed dog, but I cannot remember what kind of material it was. Perhaps Wiz knows something about this, it does not hurt to ask him.

Tor

[jimi]

Thanks tor, thanks for sharing your information. and yes the roller foot is on the list as of a long time ago, i might even try to make one up?. yes, wetting out the marks works well with a non aggressive foot, the only problem i found is that sometimes it did not pull on the material enough? that is where i should have been pulling!. this is another option i am going to try out at some time, it was used on the 45k 69 i think it was?? which was used for stitching soles on boots or shoes, and consists off two teeth which follow the thread path, and the only problem is when you get to the corners the teeth walk out of the path and leave their mark. but on the straight or light curves it is quite acceptable underneath. "feel free to criticize, as this is the only way to get better at something"

So Tor, i take it that you do not use any kind of binder attachment on your adler machine?? if anyone reading uses a binder attachment or any other kind of attachment for this type of machine, Feel Free, could you explain your set up or upload pictures? thanks in advance.

Edited March 8, 2015 by jimi

[jimi]

Hey Pip, what class 45k do you use? and what bits do you need? jimi.

[Trox]

Thanks tor, thanks for sharing your information. and yes the roller foot is on the list as of a long time ago, i might even try to make one up?. yes, wetting out the marks works well with a non aggressive foot, the only problem i found is that sometimes it did not pull on the material enough? that is where i should have been pulling!. this is another option i am going to try out at some time, it was used on the 45k 69 i think it was?? which was used for stitching soles on boots or shoes, and consists off two teeth which follow the thread path, and the only problem is when you get to the corners the teeth walk out of the path and leave their mark. but on the straight or light curves it is quite acceptable underneath. "feel free to criticize, as this is the only way to get better at something"

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So Tor, i take it that you do not use any kind of binder attachment on your adler machine?? if anyone reading uses a binder attachment or any other kind of attachment for this type of machine, Feel Free, could you explain your set up or upload pictures? thanks in advance.

Hi Jimi, that plate and dog worked out very well, you only see the push out from the needle there. No, I do not have any binder set up for my 441 machine. But I do have a Pfaff 345 H3 with a synchronized binder set up if I need to do that kids of jobs. It will handle up to TKT 15 threads, but I normally uses tkt 40 to 20 for those jobs. My old class 5 has both a binder and binding feet`s in its saddler's attachment pack, but I never tried it on a bottom feed machine. Its not the best machine for those jobs.

Tor

[Trox]

Hi Jimi, here you see the original class 4 and 5 binder attachment (pic abb 19). Singer used the same type, of course. Its in the German Adler 4/5 manual.

I hope this helps.

Tor

A18.pdf

Edited March 11, 2015 by Trox