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Everything posted by jimi

  1. Here is the parts manual for the 205-64 https://www.manualslib.com/manual/461597/Duerkopp-Adler-205-64.html
  2. Hi, This is a Junker & ruh blake stitcher, it will sew a chain stitch on the inside of the shoe, that is why it has the thin horn. You do not see many of this type on sale, you usually see the outsole stitchers on sale. the D 28 i Think they are called??
  3. I don´t know?? the book above is the Kilbowie made machines and was printed in 1907.
  4. Hi Jeannie, just keep grinding until it goes away, that blade will last for years!
  5. Yes, they are 45k heads not 17k or 16k heads, you can see this in the illustrations above they need more support.
  6. Your welcome..https://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollections/Trade-Literature/Sewing-Machines/CF/single-record.cfm?AuthorizedCompany=Singer Manufacturing Company
  7. Oooh! that looks like a Oldie! I saw one of them not so long ago in France for sale.
  8. It is lightly pushed against the feed wheel with a spring, sometimes the scrap can get caught on it. Watch your hands!! wow, can´t remember???
  9. Installed....you should be able to see it from the left side without taking anything apart.
  10. I think that since there is no decals left then it has been repainted so the holes are probably covered over with paint.
  11. Maybe a good idea to look just in case??
  12. Unfortunately things have gone crazy expensive from the UK but you don´t see this everyday! Looks like the 45k arm version of the 34k https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165004052548?hash=item266b020844:g:~lMAAOSwKEthDRHP
  13. Nice one Oldiesfan...nice to see the oldies are being saved!
  14. I would imagine to help keep the stitch length even when turning corners etc..if you do a circle with a roller foot it will have a larger stitch length on the outside curve and a smaller on the inside unless it has a gear on the roller like some newer ones do. On machines without it you would use the knee lift to do the same thing....but i could be wrong?? €5! well done.
  15. Thanks for the Info Kgg, I will give this a go when i get the plugs up and running again so i might pick your brain further in the future
  16. You could ask this guy...he had a box load of parts for the class 7. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124184612597?hash=item1ce9facef5:g:FsIAAOSw4rteupUX
  17. Looks like a 34k post bed and the part that goes in the hole should connect with some kind of cam on the inside which will raise the roller wheel every turn of the shaft. Just found this....Folker restored one of these
  18. It looks like it is there instead of the spring? to exert pressure to keep the plate on?
  19. Thanks for the advise Guys, i am going to try the mirror at one point again when i do more remote plugs as i prefer the mirror finish to the rugged, the rugged seems to hide more my first layer cock ups! Kgg, I am using Sakata PETG at around 230-235º and there is a basic/cheaper PETG which i have tried and works just as well, the only difference i can see is the shine (and price). So it is obviously the donkey pushing the buttons that needs to get things together
  20. Yeah i did that Kgg and it did work sometimes but then you loose the mirror finish also on the first layers. This was the point i was trying to use the glass for, to get a good finish on one side.
  21. I upgraded the heatbed on mine a few months back as it was not magnetic, it was one that came with the printer and i got tired of changing the PEI sheet. It now has a new magnetic one with a metal poder coated PEI double sided and is going really good up until now. The only thing i miss is the smooth side instead of the rugged one it has now with the new plate. I was thinking of trying a mirror again as this gives a really nice finish if you can get the part to stick! I used a piece of old glass and a small piece of old mirror to test a while back and it worked pretty good but the longer parts would warp and some of the smaller ones would unstick. It could have been the wrong type of glass or mirror?? not sure, i might give it a try again one day again but at the moment the longer/wider parts with a little brim has worked ok.
  22. Thanks for the photos and the video David, judging from the video from youtube of the other 68 and yours it looks pretty much the same?? it is hard to see even in slow motion, i see that small lift when the needle goes in and on the other youtube video it looks like on the top it also is synchronized the same as yours when the needle enters the leather so this must be at the correct position then?? I must be wrong then in saying that it should lift to help pass on the leather?? I would have imagined some kind of adjustment for the thread tension on the take up also but it looks like the small post for that on the left is in a fixed position at the end of the curved arm which swings left to right inside the head?? the large screw on the plate being the pivot point?? is that correct?. I also remember when using linen thread on the machine it made a small twist-loop before entering the leather? a #207 bonded nylon thread works good in these machines with about a #22 needle. Maybe someone with this specific machine (or very similar) here on the forum could shed some light on the adjustments if any are possible. You done a good job with the needle bar and the fixing it with the shims David, well done. If you are up and sewing then that is a good sign.
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