TheHoneyBadger Report post Posted February 21, 2015 Hi everyone! im new to the forum, and starting out with leather working at home as a hobby. well my question is whats a good sandpaper grit to smooth out the edges on 3oz or less leather weight. Thanks in advance and i hope this becomes more than a hobby! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tramps Leatherworking Report post Posted February 22, 2015 On thinner leathers I use 600 grit... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thor Report post Posted February 22, 2015 Tramps, since I'm still having issues with my edges all the time, I wonder if it would be smart to clamp the item into the stitching horse or so for sanding, or am I running into another problem by doing so? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tramps Leatherworking Report post Posted February 22, 2015 Tramps, since I'm still having issues with my edges all the time, I wonder if it would be smart to clamp the item into the stitching horse or so for sanding, or am I running into another problem by doing so? Thor, there is no issue with what you described. Sometimes on thin leather I use two straight edges on each side of the item with just the edge to be sanded exposed, and then clamp them in the stitching pony, it works quite well... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thekid77 Report post Posted February 22, 2015 (edited) Hi everyone! im new to the forum, and starting out with leather working at home as a hobby. well my question is whats a good sandpaper grit to smooth out the edges on 3oz or less leather weight. Thanks in advance and i hope this becomes more than a hobby! hey there! I'd like to share my process (definitely more than one way to skin a cat with this)..... first off, start by getting a fresh razor blade loaded into your utility knife (a dull blade will pull those soft leather fibers up making it more difficult to get a smooth edge... 1. bevel/dye the edge whatever color you are going to dye it...allow it to dry... 2. get a Q-tip and dip in in resolene+water mixed 1:1 and use the Q-tip to "roll" the resolene onto the dyed edges.....let it dry....when the resolene cures it freezes up the fibers of the leather along the edges and hardens them making it easier to bevel/burnish the edges later... 3. all dry... 4. run a cake of paraffin wax or beeswax back and forth over the edges of the leather... 5. get the wood slicker, the smooth barrel of an ink pen, or a piece of denim/canvas and vigorously rub the edge back and forth....this will cause the wax to heat up a bit, and the wax will help to fill any open pores along the surface of the leather.... 6. get a piece of 1000 grit sandpaper and rub the edge back and forth vigorusly... 7. the edge will be much more smooth than what you started with, but if it is not to your liking, sand with 600, rub the wax, burnish, and hit it with the sandpaper until all smooth.... I hope this helps you...as I said earlier, this is just what works for me but I'm very happy with the edges I get doing this......the resolene really is a key since it helps freeze those little fuzzies and also takes a high polish itself....just be careful when applying it....you have a lot of control with a blotted out Q-tip Edited February 22, 2015 by thekid77 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tramps Leatherworking Report post Posted February 22, 2015 Sanding is one thing, but for the whole process of edge finishing I use Bobby Parks method... There are almost as many ways to finish edges as their are leatherworkers, it's pretty much whatever works for you is not wrong if you are getting great results. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NavyVet Report post Posted March 6, 2015 Sanding anything changes the overall size of an object. The rougher the grit, the more material that is removed. For thin leather it is far better to wax or use Edge-Kote then burnish. I am disabled with one GOOD arm and the other is weak. Finding a method that I was able to do came from that need. So out came a small shaped dowel, coated in polyurethane and attached to my drill. For LARGE pieces I can shape with a fine edge grinding wheel and on the other spindle I have an 8 inch buffing wheel. Tim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
