Butchers Wax

[Boriqua]

There is no product that makes leather look as good as it can as does a hand rubbed wax finish. Has any one tried using Butchers wax as a final treatment on leather. Here is what I have done that has worked kinda.

I finished my piece, buffed it until the rag is clean and then applied a 50/50 mix of beeswax and neatsfoot oil paste. I apply it to heated leather and then heat the softened wax some until it melts into the leather and then buff. On some colors it is amazing. Water resistant and a DEEP deep color. On some colors it has caused endless rubbing. Saddle tan seems to be the worst culprit.

So I tried a seal coat of resolene 50/50 and applied the Bees wax neatsfoot paste to the top and on some colors (saddle tan) it will still caused rubbing. On other colors again a deep wonderful sheen. So I am wondering if it is the neatsfoot oil.

I have used butchers wax on metals and wood for years and was always so happy with the result. I am thinking about trying to buff and then seal my leather with 50/50 resolene and then apply butchers wax and buff. I am afraid that like the 50/50 bees wax/ neatsfoot it will still pull color basically making my project trash worthy. Has anyone used butchers wax on their dyed leather before or after resolene. What were your results?

Thank you for any help

Alex

Edited February 28, 2015 by Boriqua

[Northmount]

If you want wax or oil to be absorbed by the leather, it has to be applied before any acrylic or lacquer finish. These finishes seal the surface and pores of the leather. Resolene is an acrylic finish.

Tom

[Boriqua]

Thanks tom but I am aware that resolene is a sealant. I am not looking so much for the absorbtion of the wax but for a similar affect you might get when waxing your car or floor. I'm curious if anyone has tried to apply the butchers wax to the resolene finish to bring up a nice deep shine. Nothing like a few coats of wax to really make a nice finish even on bare metal but I dont know if the butchers wax will pull up the resolene.

I have tried Saddle lac but for holsters I have had to much trouble with finish cracking, super sheen just aint so super and neutral shoe polish I have used but it can get ashy and leave a white residue. so I am looking for a different way to get to deep shine. I like the fiebings leather sheen in the brown can but Its still a little flat. Guess I just have to bite the bullet and buy a tin tomorrow and give it a whirl on the leather. Its just not very cheap so I was hoping someone had already tried it. I will report back with results

Thanks!

Alex

[ClaireAshton]

Carnauba cream?

[Northmount]

Most waxes will give a nice gloss on top of a finish. Don't try to build it up thick, buff it off nice. A warm surface is easier to buff. Make sure there are no abrasives in in the wax (like many auto and appliance waxes).

Tom

[DavidL]

If the wax isn't absorbed into the leather (because of resolene) wouldn't it just rub off within a month? I believe english bridle doesnt use any spray finishes, only wax, fats and oils for that reason or to keep it consistent historically.

It is common for the need of excessive rubbing for alcohol based dyes otherwise they bleed or get picked up by the wax or finish. Saddle soap on 12 hour dried pieces help to pick it up. Although I never used water stains I haven't read any problems with dye rub off.

Old methods of making water stain include iron sulfate (commonly available online), bark liquor, iron rust - pulled from a leather tanning book from 1850s. You could experiment with natural powders from dharmatrading if your interested in making your own stains.