Members amuckart Posted March 7, 2015 Members Report Posted March 7, 2015 I'm trying to get my 441 clone to have an accurate stitch length and sew in the same holes backwards and forwards. It only does this for some lengths. I understand how to make the adjustment, but I'm curious as to what the correct position for the stitch length lever is at the zero point. Should the middle of the lever align with the mark, or should the top of the lever? The lever is pretty chunky and imprecise but I'd like to be able to accurately set a specific stitch length so I can pattern things so the stitches end up exactly at the corners. This also applies to the max stitch length end, what part of the bar should align with the 11mm mark? Is this correct Or this: Thanks. Quote -- Al. Medieval Stuff: http://wherearetheelves.net Non-Medieval, including my machines: http://alasdair.muckart.net
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted March 7, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted March 7, 2015 That's gonna depend on how it was adjusted (or not adjusted). You gonna have to find out where YOURS is set up. Then, maybe a fine-tip marker on the metal marking that spot? You'll get LOTS of pretty speeches about backstitching in the same holes, from a LOT of different places. I'm not sure why everyone tries so adamantly to avoid the question - other than they can't answer it. Truth is, that's been asked for years, INCLUDING on this site (do a search, you'll get an idea of how long this has been NOT answered). Sorry, I know this doesn't help your immediate question. Just trying to save you a LOT of time searching, since some of us have already been there Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members Constabulary Posted March 7, 2015 Members Report Posted March 7, 2015 (edited) I don´t have a 441 but I think the wedge on the lever should be aligned with the the "0" marking for zero feeding? And from there on back and forth stitchings should have the same length. If they don´t I would assume something is wrong with the machine - or not? Edited March 7, 2015 by Constabulary Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members amuckart Posted March 8, 2015 Author Members Report Posted March 8, 2015 That's gonna depend on how it was adjusted (or not adjusted). You gonna have to find out where YOURS is set up. Then, maybe a fine-tip marker on the metal marking that spot? The machine has never been properly adjusted. I got it straight from China, and mostly got it going back when I got it, then I got sick and couldn't work on it for ages. I'm getting back to it now and starting from scratch because it was never quite right. There should be one correct position, irrespective of the way the particular machine is setup otherwise the max stitch length in forward/reverse won't be correct. Having stared at this for a while now I'm going with the centre of the bar, not the top. You'll get LOTS of pretty speeches about backstitching in the same holes, from a LOT of different places. I'm not sure why everyone tries so adamantly to avoid the question - other than they can't answer it. Truth is, that's been asked for years, INCLUDING on this site (do a search, you'll get an idea of how long this has been NOT answered). Sorry, I know this doesn't help your immediate question. Just trying to save you a LOT of time searching, since some of us have already been there Too late, but thanks anyway I think there are a couple of reasons the question might not have been answered yet. It's not a trivial set of adjustments to make, and it's part of the setup that resellers do when they get the machines from China to make sure they're working just right when they go out the door, and that's a major part of their value-add proposition. I don´t have a 441 but I think the wedge on the lever should be aligned with the the "0" marking for zero feeding? And from there on back and forth stitchings should have the same length. If they don´t I would assume something is wrong with the machine - or not? That's pretty much right, but the wedge is rounded and not terribly accurate. I've run with the "screw the adjustment in as far as it'll go and that's zero" approach, which seems to be working for now. Quote -- Al. Medieval Stuff: http://wherearetheelves.net Non-Medieval, including my machines: http://alasdair.muckart.net
Members Constabulary Posted March 8, 2015 Members Report Posted March 8, 2015 Direct from China? Seems you have learned the lesson the hard way (no offence). I think Leather Machine Co. has a Video on Youtube on how to adjust the Cobra machines. Maybe this will help you. Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members amuckart Posted March 8, 2015 Author Members Report Posted March 8, 2015 Direct from China? Seems you have learned the lesson the hard way (no offence).None taken. It was a calculated risk, and one I'm happy with. I'm not a professional who needs the machine for production work and I fix machines for fun so sinking time into getting it sorted isn't an issue.As it was I got the machine with a full set of feet & plates, for less than half what it would have cost me to import a machine from the USA. That's thousands of NZ$. For that money I'm willing to spend some time sorting it out and deal with a certain amount of mucking around with the local importer. I think Leather Machine Co. has a Video on Youtube on how to adjust the Cobra machines. Maybe this will help you.I'm setting the machine up from scratch so I'm a bit beyond the basic tension and stitch length stuff :-) Quote -- Al. Medieval Stuff: http://wherearetheelves.net Non-Medieval, including my machines: http://alasdair.muckart.net
Members Constabulary Posted March 8, 2015 Members Report Posted March 8, 2015 Me too - its a hobby for me and I absolutely understand your point - It´s not that I haven´t had this idea but I honesty don`t dare to order from China! I´m not a mechanical embryo but setting up this type of machine from zero isn`t something I would dare! I´m sure I have seen a video where Steve was explaining several adjustments on the Cobra 4 but don´t know where it was. I remember he explained something like how to line up screws with markings or so (view from the backside) but I honestly don´t know where I have seen the video. Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members amuckart Posted March 8, 2015 Author Members Report Posted March 8, 2015 I'm setting the machine up from scratch so I'm a bit beyond the basic tension and stitch length stuff :-) I was wrong. I found Cobra Steve's video and it showed me most of what I needed. Thanks for the pointer Constabulary! Quote -- Al. Medieval Stuff: http://wherearetheelves.net Non-Medieval, including my machines: http://alasdair.muckart.net
Members Constabulary Posted March 9, 2015 Members Report Posted March 9, 2015 you are welcome. Of course youtube.... I wasn´t thinking. So your machine is running now? Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted March 9, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted March 9, 2015 So, now that you figured it out.. share it with the rest of us? Which of your pictures above is correct? Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
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