Dye Rubbing Off

[thekid77]

Thanks, everyone. I'll ditch the mink oil. I thought it would do what I wanted because the tin says it is a sealer and has silicone in as well as lanolin and the mink oil. I'll try dip-dying when I use the USMC black. Small operation here and I never buy more than a quart - it's half gone now - so I've never dipped them. It would make some of the little crevices from sewing on the belt loops easier, for sure.

I'd still like to find something that isn't glossy for the finish coat. Just going to keep on trying.

Seriously take my word for this....ditch all the black dyes that you are using and buy the Tandy Black Waterstain......I can tell you that this stuff, after allowing it to dry will not come off even if your holding the dyed piece in running water....

save yourself a pain in the rear and just use this stuff trust me I will be the first person to say that I am not all that thoroughly impressed with many Tandy products but this is a quality product that is the end-all for anyone dyeing things black.

[wlg190861]

Take a quart jar, stuff it with steelwool pads, about 4 to 5 #0000 pull them apart, stuff in jar, fill with apple cider vinegar and let sit for 7 days, strain into another jar, I use denim. An you will have nice dark black dye

[NVLeatherWorx]

It was mentioned once before but I will say it again, don't use alcohol on leather. It can dry the leather out very bad and can also cause damage to the material that could lead to other issues down the road. I would also like to recommend that you try using PURE NEATSFOOT OIL as a conditioner, this product is natural and was designed for this very purpose. It has been in use within this trade for decades and has an excellent track record (proven mind you) when compared to chemical compounds that are so commonly found in use today. It is the way that we were once taught and I have been using it for over 40 years with beautiful success. It is true that all of the Fiebing's dyes in black tend to require much more rubbing than the other colors but, as stated within the content of this thread, if the buffing is done vigorously and with a motivation to actually remove the remaining pigment residue and bring a luster to the leather then you should be okay when it comes to the final steps.

I am sure that by now you have been able to find a wealth of opinions on this very subject within the Dyes, Stains, etc. section (which is loaded with this very issue and a ton of responses). Good luck with your quest and let us all know what you end up using and how it works out for you.

[MorningStarL]

Thanks, everyone. Richard, do you use a finish coat over the neatsfoot oil? And if so, what?

I'm gonna start a jar of vinegaroon tonight, but I'm going out for dinner with two good-lookin' men first.

[NVLeatherWorx]

I have been using a 50/50 blend of Resolene and water for decades. It goes on lighter than the full strength Resolene and it also gives you a duller finish, very matte finish like. I typically apply at least 3 coatings to the leather and then check to make sure that the finish looks even, if it needs another coating or two then it gets it. The biggest thing to remember during finishing is to make sure that each application of a product (oil, dye, stain, antique paste, acrylic, etc.) onto the leather gets to dry and set for at least 24 hours. And always make sure that your leather has had at least that same amount of time to dry after the last tooling/stamping has been done before you start the finishing. Drying overnight, as most people do, may not actually mean that the leather has truly dried out or that one of the finishing products has properly dried/set; humidity and other natural factors in the shop environment can have an impact on the leather being able to properly do this. Even here in the desert environment where my average humidity is about 8% (sometimes even less) I still give it that amount of time to guarantee that the next step takes properly. And, on a final note, don't over oil your leather; it will hold that oil like a sponge if it gets too much and that will cause a whole different list of issues that can't be fixed very easily.

[TwinOaks]

Seriously take my word for this....ditch all the black dyes that you are using and buy the Tandy Black Waterstain......I can tell you that this stuff, after allowing it to dry will not come off even if your holding the dyed piece in running water....

save yourself a pain in the rear and just use this stuff trust me I will be the first person to say that I am not all that thoroughly impressed with many Tandy products but this is a quality product that is the end-all for anyone dyeing things black.

I'm sorry to burst your bubble and report this, but the Pro-Waterstain will bleed/rub off under certain conditions. I agree that it's a fantastic product, and under most circumstances it's a very good choice. I used it on a holster prototype and put it through the wringer. As you said, it will not come off...even in running water. But if the leather gets truly soaked, it's game over. I had a job that required full PPE, including tyvek coveralls, so I removed my EDC pistol but kept the holster on. An hour and a half of hard work in 90 degree weather while wearing the tyvek meant that everything I was wearing was soaked with sweat. Even the holster was soaked...and bleeding black on my pants, belt, and inside of the tyvek suit. I let the holster dry and the result is that there are areas where what used to be black is now kaleidoscope of red, plum, blue, and black.

This certainly qualifies for "abusing" the holster but once a piece of gear leaves my hands I have no idea what it'll go through, so products need to be as 'everything proof' as possible. I still use the waterstains, but only on items that most people wouldn't subject to hard use. Holsters and sheaths will get the time tested methods.

I currently use pro- oil dyes for as much as possible, applied after oiling. Then it's buffed, buffed again, and sealed with Resolene or a lacquer finish.

[MorningStarL]

Thank you all. I'm learning so much here, and my work's improving. I want it to keep on improving.