Help With Single Gusset (I Think)

[Richard M]

Hi

New to leather work and the forum and looking for some help and advice.

I would like to make a bag similar to the one in this picture attached but can not figure out the best way to get the gusset to form the nice rounded corners and the correct technique to do it.

A search on this forum and google has not been successful (wrong terms I knowing me), so apologies if its been asked before.

I look forward to the help

[YinTx]

Check out Armitage Leather's video, around the 24 minute mark. The rest of his video may be useful for you as well if you are making this bag.

YinTx

[Richard M]

Thanks for the reply.

Would I be right in thinking the gusset piece is a thinner weight of leather than front and back?

[YinTx]

I'll let someone that actually knows the answer to this one give you a better reply, but judging from the video, it looks like he cut it all from the same hide of leather....

YinTx

[25b]

I made the bag in Nigel's video and used all the same hide for mine...

[SantaFeMarie]

Here is a link to the site where that pattern is sold:

http://www.lzpattern.com/leather-bag-patterns-catagory

You could ask them, since they've obviously made it at least once, in order to create the item shown in the photo.

If you do, and you get a response, could you let us know what they say? Because that is a nice bag!!

[25b]

Ok, maybe I wasn't clear.

I bought the pattern from Nigel and using his videos, I made the exact same bag in the videos. I used all exactly the same leather for all parts, including the strap (except I made my strap double-sided)...

[TwinOaks]

The bag pictured in the OP uses the same thickness for the sides as the front and back. A close look at the edges reveals that.

To make that type bag, be sure that your corners have the same radii, then glue the gusset in. You'll sew through the glue. To keep the gusset in place while the glued gusset dries, use binder clips (you might need some scrap pieces to keep from marring the leather). To do the actual sewing, do one side first, all the way around, and then shift the sewn piece a little to the side as you sew the other side in. Or use a curved needle.

[DavidL]

If the leather is too thin it will not hold itself up like it is in the picture. Using a draping type of chrome tan wouldn't work too well, too stiff maybe not so good.

Someone else may be able to confirm if using the belly is okay for the gusset. I would imagine the front and back pieces would use the best pieces. The gusset would need a good piece but slight grain imperfections may be allowed depending on what you are after.

[DANDTON]

Hi

New to leather work and the forum and looking for some help and advice.

I would like to make a bag similar to the one in this picture attached but can not figure out the best way to get the gusset to form the nice rounded corners and the correct technique to do it.

A search on this forum and google has not been successful (wrong terms I knowing me), so apologies if its been asked before.

I look forward to the help

One of my guest change the construction a little and send me a tutorial, let me share you here

Look at the pictures in the attachment, I named them as aaa bbb ccc ddd eee fff ggg hhh ggg, so you can follow the alphabet order as the steps.

[billybopp]

I have made a few messenger bags similar to this ... Using Nigel Armitage's design as a starting point and then modifying it as needed. For mine, I used 7oz for the front, back, and straps and then 4oz for the one-piece gusset. I wanted the bag to be overall a little stiffer than it would have been with all 4oz, but 7oz proved to be a bit much for me to try to work around the corners. One o' these days I'll upload pictures of these.

Hope that helps

[SantaFeMarie]

Thank you Dandton. What weight of leather do you recommend? Does the pattern come with instructions?

[Richard M]

What an amazing set of reply's.

I emailed LZ Patterns and this is the reply;

"I like 2mm leather very much, but actually 2.5mm leather is OK too, 1.8mm is OK too LOL

This is the character of vegetable tanned leather, )"

As the response was so quick I decided to by the pattern.

There are not any instructions, but having seen the pattern, DANDTON's post and a careful watch of Nigel's video it looks pretty straight forward.

I might even be brave enough to post some pictures here if it turns out half decent.

[billybopp]

The first one or two are hardest. Keep notes about how you did things, and figure out what you would do differently next time .. both in terms of design and process. You may find it helpful to make a paper or cardboard mockup before you begin cutting leather. Before long, you'll figure out how to change the design to suit your own needs and style. After that, you may even want to try your own design!

Bill

[Tugadude]

+1 on making a mockup. Also, I've found that it helps to pre bend the gusset edges. You'll see what I mean if you look at Nigel's video. You are asking the leather to bend in two directions, so I roll the edges back first and then bend around the radius. Do that a few times and the leather will stay better. I agree with the clip idea above, works good. You might also choose to glue with rubber cement in place of contact cement. That way if you don't get the edges square you can pull the leather apart and try again.

Edited April 11, 2015 by Tugadude

[Tugadude]

BTW, depending upon your style bag, you might wish to cut the gusset a bit long and trim later. My first attempt sadly came up slightly short. Not world disaster time because I used rubber cement, and I was able to use the cut piece for short straps, keeps and D ring retainers. This becomes trickier if you have already attached retainers or pouches to your gusset material. Experience will dictate success. Good luck!

[Richard M]

Once again thanks for all the great reply's. It has given me plenty to think about also some great tips but most of all a bit more confidence

Richard

Edited April 11, 2015 by Richard M