Good Weight Leather For Wet Forming.

[Pit 4 Brains]

I have been looking at thousands of pics of holsters before trying to make one. My goal was to replace my Bianchi with a similar leather holster that will not rock or slide on the belt. I am new to leather so please bear with me. I have minimal tools but the collection slowly grows. I have wet formed a few small projects and I can't seem to achieve that "vacuum sealed " look that I want. In reality, my leather looks like I beat it to shape with a hammer. I used 6-8 oz veg tanned leather. Is my leather too thick to get a good fitting form? All in all, this holster came out well and it's something I'll wear when hunting since I won't mind dragging it through the Sonoran Desert brush.

The things I like:

My stitching is becoming more consistent as I go. I use a saddle stitch with a knot.

The holster wears well and fits my contour well.

The things I don't like:

Fingernail marks

Everything else

I tried to make this a pancake with the inside as flat as possible by making the outer leather bigger than the inner. It almost worked but glueing the two different sized pieces together was a solid pain. I guess I'll open myself self up to any and all criticism. I really want to learn how to make holsters as a hobby and maybe even a side income of sorts to pad a retirement.

Thanks, Pete

Edited April 19, 2015 by Pit 4 Brains

[camano ridge]

If you are trying to make a flat back holster, my suggestion is to wet form the front first. Tape your gun down to a flat board or surface. Get your piece of leather pretty wet (make sure your piece of leather is big enough to cover the gun and allow plenty of room for shaping. Now press the leather to the gun forming it to the gun. Let it sit for a while to loose some of the moisture content. now form it some more as tight against the gun as you can. Mark your approx stitch line and put some push pins through the leather and into the board. This will hold the leather in place while it dries. Let dry, after a couple of hours pull the gun out and let the leather dry completely. Now cut to shape mark your belt slots and place over the piece of leather that will be the back. Outline the shape of the holster onto the piece that will be the back. Cut the back out and assemble. If it is a lined holster you will want to stitch the mouth and the toe before assembling.

You stitched the mouth so I assume it is a lined holster, however I don't see a stitch line across the toe of the holster. I would suggest beveling and burnishing the edges a little more. No offense but in the picture of the toe opening of the holster it looks like the leather was cut with a coarse blade cross cut saw. The weight of leather should be fine most of mine are 8-9oz, if lined 5-6 with 3-4oz. As to the fingernail marks everyone learns that the hard way. Trim the nails and watch where and how you are placing your finger tips when working the leather.

Edited April 19, 2015 by camano ridge

[Pit 4 Brains]

Thanks for the tip on the flat back holster.

I have to admit, I got wrapped up in this thing that I forgot to bevel all together. I did most of it after stitching and staining. I need to concentrate on my order of processes.

I did not line this, I just thought the stitching would look good along all edges. As for the toe, another overlook.

I think I need to fall back and do a simpler pancake without a retention strap.

[camano ridge]

Well I am not saying that this was not a decent holster for your first attempt, because it is a decent one for the first. Just pointing out some things for the next one. When you do the next one try to remember to bevel the edges of the mouth of the holster and the toe before assembling then to the main edges after you have put the holster together.

[Pit 4 Brains]

Well I am not saying that this was not a decent holster for your first attempt, because it is a decent one for the first. Just pointing out some things for the next one. When you do the next one try to remember to bevel the edges of the mouth of the holster and the toe before assembling then to the main edges after you have put the holster together.

It may not look beveled in the pic, but it was. I think it's the black edging I used for a final touch (another thing I think looks cheesy).

I think it may help if I have my tools out in plain sight and in order of usage..

When beveling the mouth and toe, is it imperative to not bevel the parts that are going to make up the welt? if so, how do you determine that point ? Is it right at the stitching or a little towards the welt or the mouth/toe?

Thanks ..

Edited April 19, 2015 by Pit 4 Brains

[camano ridge]

Figure where your stitch lines will be then bevel the inside of the mouth and toe between the stitch lines. If you bevel the inside edge of the pieces that get glued and stitched together you will end up with a groove in the middle of your edge. I found that out the hard way along time ago.

[Red Cent]

This is a good investment. At least it works very well for me. I practically saturate the leather and drape the leather over the mold gun or a protected real one. When you hit the start button, help the leather to stay close to the gun so you can get some good angles on the leather and makes for tight stitching. The leather will remain wet but the shape will form. Leave the bag closed for an hour or so. Remove the leather and gun and leave the leather on the gun. When out side is somewhat dry, remove gun and let dry. If sunlight is available at this time, ya got it made.

http://www.amazon.com/FoodSaver-FM2000-000-Vacuum-Sealing-System/dp/B00LUGK5XA/ref=lp_1090768_1_10?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1429496187&sr=1-10

[Pit 4 Brains]

This is a good investment. At least it works very well for me. I practically saturate the leather and drape the leather over the mold gun or a protected real one. When you hit the start button, help the leather to stay close to the gun so you can get some good angles on the leather and makes for tight stitching. The leather will remain wet but the shape will form. Leave the bag closed for an hour or so. Remove the leather and gun and leave the leather on the gun. When out side is somewhat dry, remove gun and let dry. If sunlight is available at this time, ya got it made.

http://www.amazon.com/FoodSaver-FM2000-000-Vacuum-Sealing-System/dp/B00LUGK5XA/ref=lp_1090768_1_10?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1429496187&sr=1-10

I had one of those. It wasn't cost effective to store food at all as fast as we ate it. Wish I had it now. I'll be in the used market for one now.. Thanks for the scoop on that method.

[Pit 4 Brains]

Figure where your stitch lines will be then bevel the inside of the mouth and toe between the stitch lines. If you bevel the inside edge of the pieces that get glued and stitched together you will end up with a groove in the middle of your edge. I found that out the hard way along time ago.

Ok, stitch line to stitch line.

I think I'll do a much simpler one this week with the leather I have left. Maybe just a bit wider than the belt loops for a high-carry, non-retained type.

I use some simple Tandy waxed thread laid in a groove with a 2mm Craftool diamond punch (two prong). What 's the norm on hand stitching these things if I might ask?

I had one of those. It wasn't cost effective to store food at all as fast as we ate it. Wish I had it now. I'll be in the used market for one now.. Thanks for the scoop on that method.

Does the texture of the inside of the bag imprint itself on the leather?

[camano ridge]

Everybody develops there way. Your method is used by some others use other methods. I myself use a groover then mark my holes with an over stitch wheel then poke each hole with a diamond awl. Its not one way is better then another it's what works for you.

I have one of the Costco vacuum sealers. the texture is only on one side of the bag, so when I insert my holster I make sure the front of the holster is against the smooth side. The texture wil imprint on the back side but it is a light diamond texture and on the back of the holster not a big deal.