Members 8thsinner Posted December 2, 2008 Members Report Posted December 2, 2008 It can be that simple yes. I don't often use slits these days for anything simply because I don't have the tools anymore. My tool kit right now fits into a very small box. Most people will probably start learning using holes because that's what most of the books tell you to use on mexican style braiding, as far as I can remember one of stohlman's books shows slits for certain types of lacing. I would suggest for now you stick with round holes because they are stronger. Once you are happy with the quality of using holes switch to slits. When you are happy with that compare the two methods using the experience of all your mistakes and either change the preference for different projects based on that experience or stick with the one you simply prefer. Quote Doing the right thing is bleeding for the cause. Website Facebook
Members Rawhide Posted December 2, 2008 Members Report Posted December 2, 2008 (edited) ... Sorry Marlon, but I and I believe a whole lot of others would argue the fact that "Round holes look unprofessional". I'm pretty sure you will agree that the lacing I do on one of my vests, is very professional looking. No apologies necessary Ken. Just difference of opinion. My opinions are based on doing small projects like notebook covers and wallets and such. I've never made any garments or bike seats, so naturally I forgot about those situations where I think round holes would be almost a necessity. For instance, your vests, David's & Shirley's seats are fantastic and they all have holes for lacing. However, If you use the round holes on a wallet, it looks like it came from a kit. Which is not to say that it's bad, it just looks like a kit. Most helpful thanks, Ken. Your tutorials were especially useful and the tip about practicing on card makes good sense too. The hole v slit debate is interesting for someone new to lacing. I was looking for some kind of indicator - in other words: slits are used for cases and holes are used for garments but it doesn't work like that does it? Ken obviously uses holes all the time for everything and by the sound of it Marlon always uses slits - is this all about ease of use or the way you were taught or what? I started with using round holes and the two prong needle. I then switched to using the permalock needle somewhere along the line. I did like using it, but after a session with Peter Main, he explained why he uses the 2 prong needle and more importantly how. Holes are definiteley easier to use, but when I look at the work by Al Stohlman ( and I don't mean the stuff he did for tandy catalogs, etc.. but his personal items) They all have slits. By the way, I do use holes for mexican braiding, but I hardly do that because of the time consumption. Edited December 2, 2008 by Rawhide Quote Marlon
Ambassador Beaverslayer Posted December 2, 2008 Ambassador Report Posted December 2, 2008 Ken obviously uses holes all the time for everything and by the sound of it Marlon always uses slits - is this all about ease of use or the way you were taught or what? As Marlon has said, the slits do look far better on a wallet and such. These days almost everything I make conforms more to the use of a round hole rather than the slit. If I were to be making a wallet or a belt, yes I would use a slit, as it conforms to this type of construction. Also, as I cut all my own lace, usually from the same hide I am making something from, this in most cases gives me a lace that is in the 3-4 oz thickness of lace. This thick of lace is in no way going to be pulled through a slit with any ease, and will also be frayed and worn within minutes. Marlon, I have always admired the lacing that you do on your projects, you can see the time and effort you put into them, just by looking at the lacing. I do agree with you on the round holes on a wallet style project looking very unprofessional, and like a Tandy kit. Ray, depending on the type of project you are wanting to lace, I would say that this is the biggest factor to determine the type of lace and holes you are going to use. If you are using the pre-cut lace from Tandy, that is quite thin, then go with the slits. As mentioned previously, the slit placement from the edge of the leather is determined by the width of the lace. And as Marlon has said he does not like the slits to have any space between them. You accomplish this by using the angled prong tool, and having your slits punched on an angle rather than parallel to the edge. Ken Quote Beaverslayer Custom Leather<br />Wearable Works of Art https://www.facebook...erCustomLeather
Contributing Member UKRay Posted December 2, 2008 Author Contributing Member Report Posted December 2, 2008 If this thread has taught me anything, it is that discussion makes things so much clearer. I am now resolved to take my bits of cardboard with holes in 'em and sit quiet in a corner for a few months until I have something sensible to add to this conversation. (I wish!) Thanks to all of you for the great advice. I have a pile of new books to read, a heap of lace to cut and a lot of cussin' and spittin' to do so I'll go now... ...see you in the spring! <grin!> Quote "Some mornings, it's just not worth chewing through the leather straps" Ray Hatley www.barefootleather.co.uk
Members 8thsinner Posted December 2, 2008 Members Report Posted December 2, 2008 If having something to contribute means so much to you in the short term, why not give us a review of all the books you now have, or even a list and a star rating. Everyone almost knows about stohlman, grant etc, but there are plenty of others recommended to me that I had not heard of before, I am sure you can add to that list. Quote Doing the right thing is bleeding for the cause. Website Facebook
Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted December 3, 2008 Contributing Member Report Posted December 3, 2008 Just like a snobby Brit to go hide in a corner with a stack of books..... Ray, lace as you progress through the books- there's only so much about it that you can read and learn. Post some pics if you run into problems. Remember- use small lengths of about a meter to keep your lace looking happy. Quote Mike DeLoach Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem) "Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade." "Teach what you know......Learn what you don't." LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.
Members JLD Posted January 15, 2009 Members Report Posted January 15, 2009 Hi Marlon Could you please explain what you use to punch the slits for your lacing. It obviously isnt one of the punches as yours seem to be more on an angle and closer together. Thanks Johanne Quote Johanne "Learn the rules so you know how to break them properly"
Members Tina Posted January 15, 2009 Members Report Posted January 15, 2009 Hi MarlonCould you please explain what you use to punch the slits for your lacing. It obviously isnt one of the punches as yours seem to be more on an angle and closer together. Thanks Johanne I'm not marlon but, This is what you use for the angled slits "TANDY LEATHER CRAFTOOL 1/8" CHISEL 4 PRONG ANGLE" I tuck in a photo too...I found this one on Ebay. Quote "He who works with his hands is a laborer. He who works with his hands, and his head is a craftsman. He who works with his hands, and his head, and his heart, is An Artist" http://vildkorpens-laderlya.deviantart.com http://tupali.deviantart.com/
Members Rawhide Posted January 15, 2009 Members Report Posted January 15, 2009 Sure no problem. For 1/8" lace, I use an overstitch wheel that's 7 stitches per inch to mark the locations, then I use one of these to punch out the slits. Quote Marlon
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