Rolled Headstall

[toymanator]

I am new to posting on this forum, been lurking for a while. There has been some really great info on here that has helped me a lot on my projects, so thank you. I am looking into making a rolled leather headstall with a flat browband. Looking to make one similar to the old timey ones in the Visalia saddle catalogs.

Wondering for some input on what type of leather do you use? Are some easier to roll than others? What type of thread to you use to sew it? And what is the process you use to sew them?

[Lithops]

I just moved so everything is in a box. But I'm pretty sure I have a article about how to make them some where...in one of my magazine Leather crafters & saddlers journal. When I open my leather crafting boxs I will try to find it. Be patient plz.

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

Al Stohlman's book on handsewing has some instruction on sewing "rounds". I also think Bruce Johnson has a tutorial on here on how to do it. As for leather, natural strap works well due to it's ability to be easily cased, molded and burnished. I've also used harness, bridle and English Bridle with good results. Those leathers will require a little more time in water, (very warm water works best) due to the waxes and tallows. Leather cut from the lower center of the hide works well, or the shoulder, if there are minimal wrinkles, for rounding. Avoid leather cut from the prime butt area. It will typically be too dense and hard and tends to crack during the rounding process. There are a few tools that make the process much easier. Round breakers, which go on the end of a creasing machine, greatly expedite the process. Also, a rounder to pull the finished piece through is almost imperative. Bruce Johnson sells them, as well as a number of other places. A rein trimmer hand tool is used to trim off the filler after sewing. A heavy edger is needed to edge the outside edges of the round. Rounds may be machine or hand sewn, with either linen or synthetic thread. With either method, the traditional way is to sew in a channel so as to hide the stitches in the finished product. Also, coarser stitches are typically used; 4 to the inch is common, but only if you hide them. Making rounds is one of my favorite jobs, but it's tough to get paid for the time required to do it correctly. Best of luck to you!

[Lithops]

Lucky me ! The magazine was on the top of the pill !

Big Sioux Saddlery résume well what I read in it.

If you want the magazine with the instruction, they still sale it ( Leather crafters & saddlers, may-Jun '98)

http://www.leathercraftersjournal.com/product.cfm?product=130

Have fun

[toymanator]

Lucky me ! The magazine was on the top of the pill !

Big Sioux Saddlery résume well what I read in it.

If you want the magazine with the instruction, they still sale it ( Leather crafters & saddlers, may-Jun '98)

http://www.leathercraftersjournal.com/product.cfm?product=130

Have fun

Thank you for point me to the journal. I have ordered one.

Al Stohlman's book on handsewing has some instruction on sewing "rounds". I also think Bruce Johnson has a tutorial on here on how to do it. As for leather, natural strap works well due to it's ability to be easily cased, molded and burnished. I've also used harness, bridle and English Bridle with good results. Those leathers will require a little more time in water, (very warm water works best) due to the waxes and tallows. Leather cut from the lower center of the hide works well, or the shoulder, if there are minimal wrinkles, for rounding. Avoid leather cut from the prime butt area. It will typically be too dense and hard and tends to crack during the rounding process. There are a few tools that make the process much easier. Round breakers, which go on the end of a creasing machine, greatly expedite the process. Also, a rounder to pull the finished piece through is almost imperative. Bruce Johnson sells them, as well as a number of other places. A rein trimmer hand tool is used to trim off the filler after sewing. A heavy edger is needed to edge the outside edges of the round. Rounds may be machine or hand sewn, with either linen or synthetic thread. With either method, the traditional way is to sew in a channel so as to hide the stitches in the finished product. Also, coarser stitches are typically used; 4 to the inch is common, but only if you hide them. Making rounds is one of my favorite jobs, but it's tough to get paid for the time required to do it correctly. Best of luck to you!

Thank you for the tips. I started off this project by purchasing a rounder. I have some English bridle leather that I think I will try to make a few rounds with. Do you have any pictures of your work?

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

Here are a few pics I had saved on my computer. There is a set of sidecheck rounds at the shop made from Hermann Oak Rosewood harness leather that are too cool, but I don't have any pictures of them. None of these pictures really shows the sewing channel very well. if you'd like, I can try to get more and better pics tomorrow. I have 2 sets of winker braces in the molds overnight that I made today and will be ready tomorrow; the last picture shows the rounded portion of the braces on a bridle I made a few weeks ago. I was fascinated by the rounded bridle sidechecks on Grandpa's old work harness when I was a child, and spent years trying to figure out how to make them. It was a long process of trial and error, and I really didn't figure it out completely until one day maybe 8 years ago, I spent an entire day doing nothing but making rounds. I experimented with different leather, splitting to different thicknesses, thinner or thicker fillers, etc. One of the trickiest parts is turning the lap smoothly back into the round and splicing it with the filler so as to leave a perfectly even transition. Take your time with every step until your satisfied that it's perfect, because the success of each subsequent step is dependent on the previous one (like so many other things in leatherwork--and life). Getting it split to the right thickness is also very important. There are few things more gratifying to me than a finished round, perfectly even and smooth. And , NO, after all these years, they still don't all turn out that way! I'd probably get fired the first day if I worked at Freedman's or some other prestigious shop.

Edited June 3, 2015 by Big Sioux Saddlery

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

Another thing, and I don't know if it's mentioned in the Leathercrafter's Journal article, but make sure you saddle soap the leather well before you pull it through the rounder. It really makes a difference. And moisture content is critical throughout the entire process.

[CWR]

That's fine work Big Sioux. It is something I will probably never have any reason to do but I admire your skill and craftsmanship.

Thanks,

CW

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

Thank you CW! I literally have spent most of my 48 years striving for perfection in building harness. I'm still not there and doubt I ever will be, but at least I'm not ashamed to show my work anymore.

[Billy H]

My wife likes to drive horses, your work looks really well done. Billy

[Lithops]

Have fun in your project