LumpenDoodle2 Report post Posted May 22, 2015 Now, I always like trying out the unusual, so I decided to tackle a pattern I had downloaded from The Armour Archive. It's a leather helm based on one by Baron Sir Gerhard Kendal (apparently). It's made out of chrome tan and saddle leather, and lots of rivets. The leather is basically part of a job lot of fleabay that I bought. I would love to use decent veg tan, and play with some wet forming of parts, but on practice projects like this, I just can't afford it. Being me, I read the instructions, did a model out of cardboard, then jumped in there with changes. Some worked, some really didn't, but I had fun making it, and it only took 2 short evenings. I really need advice regarding keeping the leather I am rivetting under control. As you can see, the main top strapping came out a bit 'rumpled', and although it was great fun to make, and I rather like it looking down on me in my little workshop, I'm sure the next one will be better. I changed the shape of the cheek pads, and dropped the leather peak in favour of a nose guard. I felt it suited the style better. I still have a bit finishing to do, and some lacing for the cheek pads to sort out, but that's it. By the way, the black cat is Jasper, and he seems to really like the helm too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MonicaJacobson Report post Posted May 22, 2015 Cool, that looks like a fun project! I've never made one - maybe someday. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwican Report post Posted May 22, 2015 I really like this, well done Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted May 23, 2015 The rumples are probably not from the rivetting, it is from the inflexibility of the leather disagreeing with the compound curve you are bending it into. This is one of the things that can be corrected by using wet-forming. Btw, on the top cap rivets that don't go through the straps if you insert a washer of leather where the strap would be, it will help the top cap stay flatter, if that makes sense. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LumpenDoodle2 Report post Posted May 23, 2015 (edited) Many thanks folks, and I see what you mean about the washers for the top cap. i want to make another one, but without the neck and cheek pieces. This would give it a way more Viking/Norman look. I felt this type of project would be a fun way to get to grip with how to manipulate heavy leather in the small sections needed to build a helmet. Oh, and sorry for the first picture being upside down, I'll try to remedy that. Edited May 23, 2015 by LumpenDoodle2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites