Jj5685 Report post Posted May 30, 2015 I've got a factory Harley seat. I know how to tool and saddle stitch, I've been getting better in the last 3 years. But I don't know how the best way to Re upholster my seat. I watched a video and a guy glued suede to the padding then put leather tooling on top of that. Is that needed. Do I need a water proof liner over padding under leather? From looking here's what I'd do. .. take off factory vinyl and draw a template from that leaving a stitch border. But I don't know if holes will line perfectly up after punching stitch holes. Then just wet edges of leather to mold to padding after sewing is complete. Right now the factory seat vinyl is just staples to seat pan. I guess I could do that. Is this how it should be done? It's not a springer seat so their is a little more padding. so my main concerns are with the stitch holes lining up and how to mold this to padding. Any input appreciated thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wild Bill46 Report post Posted May 30, 2015 I think I may have seen same video some time ago," Eller bros" ? maybe ? And the padding was most likely applied for creature comfort, not as a sealant ? then again, Maybe it was to be an overlay , the reason for gluing ? You can make new holes for new seat cover stitching. (or very carefully align old holes, hard to align real well) movement, stretching etc. Once your pattern is as you desire, and tooling finished if any desired, I would apply any dying, staining, coloring, if wanted, and then apply any jeweling, dots, decorative stitching/lacing etc. It can then be Stitched together making sure it fitted as you go. I'm sure there are other ways of doing this, Others whom have more experience might do it completely different.. but this is what I think I would do if confronted with this myself. Hope this helps in some way. Good luck ! Wild Bill46 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jj5685 Report post Posted June 10, 2015 Well I just got it finished. Several hours stayed up till 2am twice working on this. I used rtc bee natural finish for the first time and it is water resistant and it doesn't leave your tooling grooves looking milky. But it's still tacky after drying for 5 hours. I hope it's dry in the morning cause I'm riding it to work regardless. All hand saddle stitched Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted June 10, 2015 great toolinig and artwork. My brother asked me to make him a motorcycle seat for his harley I really want to, but I have no idea how to upholster the seat. I can handle the artwork and tooling. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jj5685 Report post Posted June 10, 2015 Yea I hate the sewing. And if you mess up you have to fix it or buy a new seat because I cut my old one up in peices to trace around. Theirs probably a better way but I don't know it yet. I'm starting to think I did something wrong cause it's still tacky. It can't stay tacky forever can it? I used two bottles of e6000 around the stitching and spread onto the inside of seat. Could it be the glue coming through? It still looks fine. Which that glue takes 72 hours to cure and I'm guessing it'll still have a rubbery feel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted June 10, 2015 Sounds like something is wrong with the finish. Did you apply the finish thick? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jj5685 Report post Posted June 10, 2015 I talked to Kevin at spring field and he thinks I put to much on and also because I did it in very humid nc heat outside. He recommends I wipe o ff with acetone, let dry then recoat with a damp sponge Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted June 10, 2015 I talked to Kevin at spring field and he thinks I put to much on and also because I did it in very humid nc heat outside. He recommends I wipe o ff with acetone, let dry then recoat with a damp sponge That was my first suspicion. Every leather finish I have used to date has worked better if I thin it, apply it lightly, and recoat as necessary. Some finishes, you need an airbrush or something to get thin even coverage without screwing up the dye job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jj5685 Report post Posted June 10, 2015 (edited) I didn't know how to put out on. On the tan kote I just dunk my finger into Bottle and rub it on. This stuff was so thin I got a small rag soaked and wiped it on. Live and learn. I always do it right the second time. Maybe third Edited June 10, 2015 by Jj5685 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites