Problem When Antiquing With Wool

[Oceanstreetleatherco]

Hey there,

I've been using antique for a while now (both gel antique and feibings paste) and most of the time I've applied it with a t-shirt or other soft rag or a sponge (sometimes slightly dampened depending on the effect I'm going for). And I've used many different methods for wiping it off. Such as paper towels, t-shirt rags, sponges, leather scraps, and a ruler or protractor with a cloth wrapped around it.

But most of the experienced (or in many cases, old) leather craftsmen I've talked to tell me to use sheeps wool to apply and buff and wipe off antique. And I love the effect they get on their products. So naturally I tried it. Many many times. And I always have the problem of having little wool fibers sticking to the leather. I've tried trimming the wool and even using synthetic wool and daubers. But no matter what antique I use (gel or paste) I always get the same problem with the fibers sticking to the leather.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Also, does anyone know how to achieve that natural burnish color that looks almost like no antique was used, but it's too dark to be just the natural burnish effect. If you go onto Chan Geer's Facebook and look at some of the pictures of his magnetic notebooks or look at a lot of Adam Tanner's work, you'll see what I'm talking about. I've tried using feibings Sheridan brown paste and it's too dark for that specific effect. So I tried mixing it with the neutral antique paste and then the color just got really horrible looking. Any advice on reaching that effect would also be appreciated.

[midwestislander]

I have done something similar on my dyed wallets, etc., using what I would call dry burnishing. I take a towel or t-shirt material that I have used for applying dye of a darker color that has dried, moisten it slightly, dab it on a paper towel so I know it is not too wet, then lightly burnish the area that I want to be shaded. To increase the shading, I burnish more, not necessarily adding more dye to the cloth.

[splinters]

Have you tried singeing the wool dauber with a small alcohol burner to remove the loose wool fibers before applying the product?

[terrymac]

Use Clearlac as a resist before applying antique paste. Never experienced problem using wool.

Terry

[Oceanstreetleatherco]

Use Clearlac as a resist before applying antique paste. Never experienced problem using wool.

Terry

I use RTC most of the time. Do you think the wool fibers are like sticking to the RTC?

[terrymac]

Could not tell you, have never used the stuff. Strictly a Clearlac user.

Terry

[King's X]

I use sheeps wool for my application. Of course, I trim each piece of wool to a low nap. I also run my hand over the piece before using it to make sure all the loose fibers are off. Plus, I have poured some Tan Kote into my Fiebings antique paste and shake well before use. After my paste dries, I use sheeps wool and tan kote to remove the excess paste.

As for Chan Geer's or Kris Tanner's finish is commonly referred to as the Sheridan Finish. I am sure you can find the recipe on this forum if you do a short search.

I also currently use Clear Lac, Neat Lac, Wyosheen and Bee's Natural RTC finish. They pretty much all work some what the same. Except for Neat Lac, there is no substitute. As for the RTC, it is a great alternative to the fumes the others create especially in a regulated low VOC state.

Edited July 6, 2015 by King's X

[ninety5percent]

I pretty sure that Kris Tanner uses mineral spirits mixed with his antique paste and he also mixes colors too. Clear lac works real good but I have to let it sit a day or two before i put paste on.

[King's X]

Mineral spirits huh. Interesting. I apply the resist and half a day I am good to move on.

[megganpowell]

I just do a really obsessive compulsive job pulling loose fibers off of my wool pieces before I dye with them. I cut all of the pieces from larger wool remnants and then do a really good job getting most of the loose fibers off. I do this all in advance and then when I go to actually use them, I do it again. Tedious but this is what I do because I can't stand those little fibers getting stuck in my projects! I use wool daubers for smaller projects and Springfield Leather Co. has some lint-free ones here

http://springfieldleather.com/27624/Dauber%2CLint-Free%2C10pk/

For flat pieces of leather that haven't been tooled and I don't need to get in the crevices with stain, I just use lint free rags. I always buy old white T-shirts at garage sales for super cheap and take theme home and wash them then cut them up.

[mlapaglia]

If the RTC is still tacky it needs to dry more. It should dry 12 hours before a second coat or the antique is applied. If you put on a second coat let it dry over night also.

I know there are people here that do not let it dry anywhere close to 12 hours and it works for them but since you are having problems its best to let it really dry first. After you get the hang of it than you can try letting it dry for less time.

Michael

[ENC]

I use to make fake fur leg warmers/boot covers for the rave crowd by the 100s. Using the hose from on vacuum cleaner gets most of the loose stuff off, but I found the most efficient method to remove loose hairs was to just beat them on the ground when the boss wasn't looking.

Ray

[swhoelefp69]

having the same problem!  little wool fibers sticking all over my projects...  any other suggestions when using wool? I've done my best every time to pull out excess fibers but they still show up !

[Handstitched]

G'Day @Oceanstreetleatherco I use sheep skin offcuts, cut into 2-3" square pieces .  While I have no problem applying dyes, I sometimes have  occasional fibres appear when I'm applying sealer, one of which is a bit ' stickier'  than the dyes I use. When I trim the square pieces  , I trim the excess  wool off and cut down to around 1/2"  and give them a good ' brush off'  with my hand to remove as many loose fibres as I can , but I still get  a few appear . 

Just wondering if  off-cuts of shearling would be better? 

HS