Neatsfoot Oil

[iknowthisguy13]

I have been hearing horror stories about over use of neatsfoot oil on holsters. What do you use to preserve your holsters including shape and retention. And what is the proper way to treat holsters with neatsfoot oil?

[smirak]

I'm not sure what the "proper" way is, as you'll most likely get multiple answers from more experienced holster makers than me (I've made exactly 1 holster). That said, the holster I just completed on Sunday was a trial run to just get the pattern down, wetmolding, hand stitching, edge finishing/burnishing, etc...I didn't dye it. After it was "completed", I rubbed it down with neatsfoot oil. Let it dry and picked it up out of my dresser drawer yesterday and it is rock solid. The molding is holding it's shape and the curve of the holster for wear isn't moving. Not sure if the neatsfoot oil had anything at all to do with that, but I don't think it hurt it either is what I'm trying to say.

[malabar]

Neatsfoot oil will soften and darken any leather it's applied to. If you mold a holster and then apply neatsfoot oil, the hard molding will soften.

I seal the outside of my holsters with acrylic, and apply Fiebing's Aussie beeswax conditioner to the inside. Beeswax won't penetrate and soften the leather.

tk

[Lobo]

You will receive at least as many opinions about neatsfoot oil as the number of people you ask.

Neatsfoot oil is rendered from the lower legs and feet of cattle. Some describe it as being "cow oil", which is pretty accurate. Neatsfoot oil compound is a combination of neatsfoot and mineral oil, typically a bit less expensive than straight neatsfoot.

Neatsfoot oil has been used to finish and preserve leather for many years. One of the traditional finishing methods used by saddle and harness makers was to heat neatsfoot oil until it would melt beeswax, then use the mixture warm. The oil penetrates and infuses the leather fibers while the beeswax seals the surface and can be buffed to a soft luster.

The vegetable tanning process removes just about all of the natural moisture in the hide. The wet-forming process used in holster making stretches and stresses the leather fibers into the desired shapes. Leather so formed is very rigid. Since a holster must flex to some degree during use (on the belt as the body moves, when the handgun is holstered or drawn) this presents the possibility of the leather fibers cracking or tearing, whether completely through or only within the structure of the leather.

Some of us (myself included) believe in the use of a modest treatment with neatsfoot oil as a means of replenishing a bit of the natural moisture removed during the tanning process, thus providing the finished holster with the ability to flex without cracking or tearing (or significantly reducing that possibility). The oil should be applied in moderation, and only once as the first step of the finishing process. I do this using a 1" paint brush dipped into the oil, then brushed over only the outer surfaces (top grain side) because application to the flesh side results in very rapid absorption and less control over the amount applied. The oil is absorbed into the leather (I call this "settling") and spreads itself evenly throughout the piece, a process that usually takes several hours (I leave it overnight before going forward with sealing and finishing).

Neatsfoot oil can certainly be overdone, leaving any leather article limp and useless. Properly applied the oiling works as described above, with the finished holster remaining solid in the formed condition.

Others will argue strongly against any use of neatsfoot oil. All I can say is that I've been doing things this way for 43 years, with tens of thousands of finished products delivered to customers in all 50 US states and 33 other countries so far.

YMMV.

[chiefjason]

I add a bit but a different way than most. It's based on the saddle makers way lobo mentions. But I melt the beeswax and neatsfoot 50/50 by weight. Then I let it set up in a container. The first step in finishing my holsters is to apply the paste and use a heat gun to melt it and let it get drawn into the leather. I do 3 light passes front and back. Then let it set, usually overnight. Next is M&G followed by Atom wax.

If I'm doing a field strap or thumb break I'll generally add a bit of straight NF oil or Saddlers oil before I use the oil/wax. With the extra flex expected from a strap I tend to oil them a bit more.

And yes, the oil certainly darkens the color. The oil/wax mix does also but a bit less so.

[snubbyfan]

I use it pretty much as Lobo described. After molding, I clean the leather with rubbing alcohol, then dye. This pretty much dries out the leather. After the dye dries for a coupla days, I use one paper towel to wipe on some Neatsfoot and another to wipe off the excess and leave it to dry for a coupla more days. Then it's time for the final top coat.